FredlyFX

That is one crazy looking car. I think I would get in way too much trouble with it.

The wheels are actually not that hard to find. Rich and I both used idler wheels we found at Surpluss Center, http://surpluscenter.com/ For my drive wheels I bought them from Rob at Beamont Metal Works, the maker of the KMG Grinder. http://beaumontmetalworks.com/ If you click on Wheels and Components you will find all you need. I have also bought pillow block bearings from him as well. Good luck with it

I am almost done building my own 2x72. I just have to finish up the stock rest on the left side wheel. It really isn't that hard if you have basic welding skills. Here's a couple of pics of it. I also have a lot of pictures on my web site of it being built step by step.

Thanks for the advice rthibeau I really can't build into the woods, since I live in town, but I am building it big. If the city lets me do it the way I am planning, then it will pretty much cover all the available space on my lot. I will end up with a 40 by 60 roof that has a 12 by 24 shed centered on one of the long sides. The shed is already there, and the new building will be built next to it so the shed door opens into the building. I won't be able to use all the space now, but I know I will grow into it. I plan to have the plans done and a permit pulled by the end of July. Hopefully by Christmas I will be moving in.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm actually one of those evil snipers. I figured out long ago on ebay that if I bid when I first see an item then things just go higher and higher as we go back and forth for days. On both of these items I was pretty excited that there were no bids really untill the last day. They each had stayed at the same price until the final day. I started putting my bids in with about 1 1/2 minutes to go and it jumpped from 200 to 660 in that time with about 6 or 7 bids recorded. Everyone else was doing the same thing I was. I think what I am actually going to do now is stay away from buying any large equipment, and focus on building my permanent shop. I have been planning it for 2 years, but it is really time to get going on it. Then, when I eventually get some nice equipment I will actually have a place for it.

Man, I am totally bummed out. I have spent the last two days studying up on the Logan lathe and on Mills & lathes in general. I had gotten myself all psyched out to buy the 10" Logan lathe & the Go-Well mill. Well, tonight the auction closed, and both items went for more than I was willing to pay. The lathe went for $661, and the mill about $531. On the mill I was actually high bidder with 17 seconds left, and got beat out. On the lathe I gave up at about $575 and it still went another $90 over that. Probably better in the long run. I totally didn't need a mill and a lathe, but they are definetly in the sure would be nice to have category. I'll keep my eyes open, and maybe someday one will pop up in my price range.

What a great resource Ed. Thanks for that Logan site. You wern't kidding about the prices of parts. I nearly fell out of my chair when I looked at a couple of them. I'll definetly be very careful with it if I end up winning the bid. Mathew: He said to look at the slide rails on the lath and the dove tails on the mill for signs of wear. He took me through his shop to point out what to look for. Many of his machines are from the 70's & 80's, but were just barely starting to show some signs of wear. He said some machines he had seen on the used market showed heavy signs of wear and abuse. Unfortunatly, the kind of stuff he was showing me is the kind of stuff you will never see in a picture really. It would have to be a good close up shot, and you don't usually see those on ebay listings.

If you ever decide to sell off any of those large anvils or swage blocks please give me a call. I am looking for both.

Thanks for the heads up Ed. I printed out all the pics from the two listings and took them over to my machinest buddy Jim Riddle of Mohave Southern Machine Works while picking up some ITC 100 at lunch. He showed me what to look for in the used machines and confirmed that they would probably be ok for what I plan to do as long as they are cheap enough. I figure if I stay patient and snipe the bid in low I can't get too hurt on them. If I show up to get them and they are too beat up I can still back out and just take the neg feedback. I've been wanting a mill and a lath for a long time, but I'm not willing to pay what they frequently go for. I'm just too cheap at heart.

Welcome Sparks, I live in San Jacinto, about an hour north of you. If you ever come inland please give a call and stop by.

Thanks for the links Ed. One of them is just 50 miles from me. I will be putting some bids in soon. They same guy also has a nice mill listed. If things go well, I will end up with a lathe and mill out of it.

Thanks for the info Jim. I'll start working on those billets now so I am sure I have what is needed when the time comes. Slightly off topic. I just bought and watched your pattern welding video. Wow, what a difference a picture makes. I have read through the complete bladesmith, and the pattern welded blade, but seeing you do it acctually answered a lot of questions. It also showed me a few things that I thought I was doing right, but that now realize I wasn't. Thanks for doing the video.

Interesting projects Krstofer. I particularly liked the trike. How is it coming along? Did you finish it? FredlyFX http://fredlyfx.com PS. I work in the disabled student program at Mt. San Jacinto College training students to use adaptive hardware & software. I have a couple of students who would be kindred spirets with you. They are both quads that do all sorts of projects. I am impressed all the time by the stuff they can do with a tiny fraction of the grip you have.

Welcome River-Gazer. It doesn't take money to find scrap steel all over the place. Walk along the road and keep your eyes open. Ask friends if they have any old steel laying around. Tell every one of your friends and neighbors that you are looking for scrap steel, and you would be suprised at what you get handed to you. I would think that almost any scrap steel would be better than wasting your time trying to work that cast iron. Just my .02

Hi Nick, I've smithed a few times in my great kilt, but your right, it is way too hot normally for that. Now I always ware britches. I am attaching a pic of me at the Ojai Pirate Festival from a couple years ago. The blacksmith at the Koronaburge European Festival always wears his great kilt. It's the only garb he owns. He does 7 weekends both days, all day in it. FredlyFX http://fredlyfx.com

Nolano, I have a Peter Wright that rang like a bell before I tied it down tight. I used two pieces of chain and 4 lag bolts. I wrapped one chain around from one side and lagged it into my "stump" which is 4x12's glued and bolted together. The start and end of one chain started on the same side of the anvil. Then, I did the same thing from the other side. I'm attaching a picture, since I don't think my explanation is making too much sense. This pic is before I went after the face with a belt sander. FredlyFX http://fredlyfx.com

Jim, have you gotten the 5 people for your course in November? If not, I would like to be one of them. Can you give me some info on the billets we should bring? What size and composition should they be? Also curious about the costs and dates. Thanks

I made this feather from 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 1/8" angle iron. Most of the detail was done cold, as I found when I tried to do it hot it took several heats to just do a couple inches of it. I tried it cold and it worked just fine. I welded a 1/4" round bar on the end for a stem with my O/A rig. The finish is just a brushing with a brass brush to give it some color. I may spray some clear on later.

Another good place to look is just keeping your eyes open as your driving, and be ready to pull over quick. I have found a nice 12 inch crecent wrench, a completly cleaned hot water heater tank, 8ft fiberglass step ladder and numerous other smaller finds just as I go about my normal erands.

That is a great thread Innovational Iron. Very nice forum as well.

Ladysmith: I have a set of tongs like the second from the bottom. I was able to tweak the forked jaw a little so that it holds a RR spike very well. It gives me complete access to the main part of the spike under the power hammer.

This is my 100lb post vise mounted to a steel table. I also have a cheap Harbor Freight machinest vice attached to the other corner.

Nice article Quenchcrack.

"A note to FredlyFX- 5hp is so over kill for your 75# by a factor of 2 or 3." Yes it was not my choice of motor, but I am staying with it now. I was out of money on the rebuild project, so a friend of a friend offered to buy me the motor when I was rebuilding the hammer in exchange for instruction and usage rights to make some cable damascus. I told him to get a 3hp 1750 rpm motor, and he came back with a 5hp 3450 rpm one. I had to add a second jack shaft to get the thing slowed down enough to work. Funny thing is, the guy has never called to come over and actually do any work, and it has been over a year. Good deal for me.

I'd be very interested in the class if you offer it Jim. Please add me to the list. I'm only about 4 hours from you, and have an Aunt in Henderson who I'm sure would let me crash. Weekends are better for me, but even if during the week I'll take vacation time.