FredlyFX

Love the skylights, very smart light source.

I bought a 200lb TFS Smithy Special several years ago and I love it. I'm only a hobby smith, but this anvil is so much nicer to work than the many old worn out anvils I had used before finally selling off some stuff at a CBA conference and then dropping the bucks for this anvil. There was no shipping as the guys from TFS helped load it into the back of my truck. That was at least 5 years ago and I have never regretted it. My grand kids grand kids will be able to use that anvil.

Hi Frosty, yeah, I have done a bit of searching, but not gone into full fleged mission mode yet. I was just gathering some info hopping someone just knew how to do it. So far I have seen a lot of conflicting info or questions about welding it, but no real info on heat treating it. One suggestion that would make sense was to use a low heat TIG with pure Argon. The problem is I don't have a TIG set up. I also have the problem that it has already been overheated by the previous welder. My thought was to just use 7018 and then do a heat treat with veg oil. The real problem for me is that I am totally guessing here.

Thanks for the info guys, but I was hoping someone actually knew how to do this. The links you gave me Frosty were interesting, but they didn't give me any real heat treat info. The database is $149 for a 4 week trial. My plan is to weld the holes with 7018 and then heat to orange and quench in veg oil. Any idea if will shater the metal or if anyother bad stuff might happen? Or, is this stuff air hardening? Thanks

Hi guys, long time no see. Life has been kind of crazy. I've had a little job come up helping out my local shooting club. They have a target that is made from 3/8" thick AR500 armor plate. Someone shot it full of holes with some kind of magnum and I want to try to fix it. Another guy already welded up the holes once, but his welding just tempered the plate and so everwhere he welded it the plugs came out and other holes showed up. I have a couple of questions. 1. What would be the best stuff to weld it with? I have a 225 amp buzz box and a 175 amp wire feed welder. Which rod or wire would hold up best and be able to be heat treated along with the AR500? 2. Once I weld the holes and grind everything flat what should my heat treat process be? How hot, how long and what quenchant should I use? Also, does it need to be temperd afterwards or should I leave it dead hard? Thanks for any input you can offer.

I bought a 200lb double horn anvil from TFS at the last CBA conference in So Cal. I have been very happy with the rebound and everything about it so far. I expect that it will out live me by several lifetimes.

Thanks for posting this up Frosty. I have been thinking about some kind of VV forge for a while now, and this post has really got me thinking now. Keep the ideas coming guys, this is great.

I just bought a new 200lb TFS Smithy Special2 dual horn with a side shelf & upsetting block for $1100. So far I am very happy with it. They also make a 300lb. I tried to soften the edges with a file and it just skated across. It is a solid cast tool steel anvil made in Texas. Amy Pieh was making deals at the CBA conference last month. I was able to get it for about $100 less than normal with no shipping or tax. That made a big difference.

Any idea the weight of the anvil? If it is a decent weight, say 100lbs or more, and is in decent shape, then it is a pretty good deal. I've paid a lot more for name brand anvils I was not too happy with.

I had the pleasure of seeing him demo at the CBA conference a few years ago. He was an amazing artist.

Great interview Dan. And nice work as well. I like that gate a lot.

I currently make my living working with disabled students at a community college where I train them in the use of adaptive technology. I also am an alternate media specialist, which means I convert textbooks to electronic files, large print, or braille. Beofre that I spent years doing all sorts of things, handyman, equipment mechanic, building mantenance and sales. I do blacksmithing and woodworking as a hobby, and hope to someday make a living as an artist blacksmith when I retire in about 12 to 15 years.

I came up with a name for my forge that is also my initials. So, when people see my FF in a diamond touchmark, it can mean Fredly Forge, or Fred Frontino, either one.

Mende, I doubt those types of hammers were actually used in any kind of mideval combat. I would suspect that they are an invention of hollywood, where the actor only has to swing it for a minute or two and then they cut to the next shot. I used to fight live steel and used a mace sometimes that weighed about 3lbs, and it wore me out in a couple of minutes. I seriously doubt that anyone would go into combat with a weapon that was so slow almost anyone could dodge it, and that would wear you out in a few minutes. Just isn't practical. They did use smaller hammers because they worked well against armor. If you could strike the joints with the hammer side you would dent them and limit mobility. Then spin it and give a blow to the head or neck with the point and it was all over. One thing I have seen for the large fantasy hammers you are talking about at the Ren Faires is they make them from 12ga sheet metal and weld all the corners. It looks solid, but is easy to carry around all day. Grind them all smooth and then paint it to look like wood.