I also had this problem, I found that the scale were getting pounded in, I now use water on my anvil and hammer. The water on the hot spike make the scale pop right off and make for a cleaner forge.
Nitro
I had a old drill bit that was about 3/4", so i decided to forge it. I forged it to the basic size that I wanted and then stalk remove the rest. When I was stalk removing there a line where the steel seemed to be different (harder) my file wouldn't even bite. I was wondering is the really hard stuff D2 and the softer low carbon. And will this make a good blade still.
I included a pic.
Thanks
Nitro
just my two cents, you can forge or grind the bevel down to about 1/16" before heat treating. After you treat it, it will be hard to file a bevel. Oh and looking very good
Hope this helps
Nitro
I was wonder what I can do to protect my kaowool for the flux when trying to forge weld damascus. I will be putting Plistix 900F on it but will that be enough to protect it?
I was also wonder if it would work to put a piece of metal in the bottom on top of the kaowool to protect from the flux?
Any info would help!
Thanks
Nitro
I just finished this railroad spike knife. I tried two before but they failed after forgetting to scrap the scales. Once I got down to the thickness I needed they broke at the blade, but here are some picks of the one that came out.
I have a base plate I think thats what is it is. Its is the plate the rail lays on and the spikes go throught to hold down the rail. My question is would this be good metal for knife making and what would be the carbon content?
Thanks for the help
Nitro:rolleyes:
like I posted under leaf and coil springs, ask body shops that do suspention lift for the ones that they take off. The spring are 1095 and 5160. You can also look at junk yard for them for cheap
just thought I would share a place to check to get them for free. Here were I live there is are some place that do suspention lifts, they throw the old springs away and if you ask they will most likely give for free.
Nitro