Ratel10mm

As well as all the good tips so far, I was taught to try to make my driving arm like a piston, i.e. let the elbow be the hinge and try to keep the forearm going straight forward & back. Place your trigger finger along the handle as well, it helps keep your wrist locked which in turn helps keep the action linear.

Me too. I'm on Windows & I.E. 6.something-or-other.

I also like no. 1 best, but I hope whatever the council opt for, they give you the contract!

Darn it Dale, you beat me to it again bloke! Welcome to IFI Loose canon. :)

Every 6 months the local council has a "large rubbish' collection week. Each street gets a specific week to put all thier large stuff out front, and everyone that wants helps themselves, unless the council gets there first! This time I got 2 hoovers which I hope will become 1 or 2 blowers. An end of a 55gallon drum that someone had brazed handles onto, I guess it was some type of table top thing. It's going to be a solid fuel forge. I also got a section of chassis with a tow ball on it. I cleaned up the end of one box section & use it for a hot cut, and the ball as sort of a nthing for bending stuff around. I'm sure it'll be usuful for lots of other things, but ideas fellas? Finally, I had to change an exhaust fan at work, and the old one had some ready-made legs for the forge, although they need extending. They're at the left of the photo. I also recently replaced 2 fan pulleys, one 200mm dia. & the other 400mm dia, both dual vee. THey're cast & pretty heavy! Already used then stacked one on the other, on a milk crate, as an expediency anvil to mash a section of copper pipe into something else at work one day. I figure they'll maybe useful for bending around. Any other ideas welcome. I think maybe I should add that I replace stuff at work because it needs to be, not becasue I want bits of it! :D

Niiiice. Probably cost my mortgage to ship to Oz though. :(

Philip, I for one have been following your posts in this thread with interest. Sorry if you feell like some have been negative, please don't stop on that account? Am looking forward to hearing the price when they go on sale. Although I cannot afford a new anvil at present one day I'd like to buy one, and more competition has to be good for keeping prices sensible - something they're definitely not here in Oz.

Very smart idea! :)

Welcome to IFI. There are a few SA members on the board. I'd suggest posting in the South African Highveldt section. Maybe send some of the Saffas an e-mail?

Hi to the Victorians. I'll be in Melbourne on Wednesday, with most of the day free (at least it's looking that way). So what's interesting to see form a blacksmith's perspective there. Any good shopping type places (Yes Dale I could get some firebrick, but don't have the luggage room. And I may have found a local-ish supplier - fingers crossed) for smiths? Anyone up for a coffee or something? Regards Matt

Brand: Hay Budden Weight: 70kg Condition: Reasonable. Chipped edges. Price paid and year: AUS$300, 2009

True! Last time I had a go at it, I just twisted every heat until it felt solid (actually, an earlier twist or 2 were trying to corkscrew, so I probably had over done it), then went at it with the hammer. Worked pretty well, but I haven't got it etched (or even ready for finishing) yet.

Ok, if you didn't, then try making the first weld by twisting the cable tighter - it works! Then, use a lot of bits of cable & forge weld them into a larger billet. Yes, polish & etch. Make sure you counter the etchant / clean it off once you're done. Same steels don't make great contrasts - with cable in my limited experience, it's more about the boundary layers creating a pattern.

I'm struggling a bit myself. Down Victoria way it's easier I understand, 'cos it gets cold there! Welcome to IFI. Please add your location (doesn't need to be exact) to your profile as we may be able to help better if we know where you are. And there's a few of us in QLD thinking of building forges, so we may even be able to get together on it.

There's a lot of good help available via this forum, search it thoroughly (no doubt you already have) and read all you can. Then try all sorts of things. And find Mick Maxen - I don't personally know anyone better than him at it. I'm not sure if he's a member of this forum, but I know he can be found on British Blades :: Custom Knife Making (Mods, if it's not ok to post links, please delete it?). Forge welding tips that I know: Make sure your fire is clean (i.e. no clinker) Get it HOT! juuust sparking white if welding mild, or a bit less for carbon steels Tap firmly, don't welly it at first, to set the weld. Make sure you start at one end & work to the other. This squeezes rubbish out on the way, & helps avoid cold shuts. Once you've set the weld, then hammer on it harder. Good luck, it's a lot of fun when it goes right! :)

Hello Phil. Will you & Damo be coming to Moony's if he holds it this year?

lol Dale! Not likely bloke, it's 70kg! Mind you, it's quite a bit closer to Moony's place than mine... Naah, need to get it here & play with it! Guys, the near side edge looks ok, but the far side edge is mank. I don't think I'll be taking the hard facing rods to it anytime soon though - I learnt the theory of welding many years ago, no practice! And I can use the near side (admittedly not very easily) when required for now. Here's a couple of pictures, courtesy of the seller.

It's on Australian flea-bay, item no. 280324820858. 152lb according to the seller. Chipped edges on the far side, but otherwise ok as far as I can see. Now I just need to find a way of getting it to me! Comments and advice on repairs would be welcome, and yes, I'll be looking up the BP's on anvil repair. ;)

Apparently, brass monkeys were only found on the large, (self?) important ships of the line. Ones with Commodores & Admirals on board, that sort of thing. As I understand it, in Nelson's time it was normal for ship's captains to spend their own money on whatever improvements - practical or pretty - they felt fit. Which is a possible explanantion for why it might not be a myth. As I understand it, a brass monkey is not just a plate laid on the deck, but more a framework holding all the shot in place. However I've not looked at the debunking sites linked above, so I bow to superior knowledge if I'm wrong.

Another thing to try is lubricating the hole. Like everyone's said, you need to remove the punch & quench it every few blows. But, if you have some coal then drop a small piece down your hole while quenching your punch. the coal gets crushed (obviously) and the resulting dust helps to keep your punch from sticking. Graphite should do the same job.

Welcome aboard. :)

That looks great!

What he said. :)

I see another one's found their way here. Welcome Megalift. :)

Hell, I'll steal it from you at $300! Seriously, as Dale will tell you, we have the 'old tool collector' problem in Oz, just as you do in the States. And with fewer anvils to go around, I often see battered ones going for way silly prices. Let's see some photos & as Dale says, we can then come up with an idea of value.