Jeff B

Had a good time at the new salem hammer in yesterday. Peter Ross was the demonstrator, it was a great demo.I also learned by 1700 standards I AM a master smith LOL !

theres no need for the share to be hard, the smith that I worked with would let them air cool, But he would say they had to be on there backs on a dirt floor running north and south! YA right. there is away to make a share that runs in sand last longer with out harding, But I can't tell, Its a trade secret.

6' floor lamp.

Well thats hard to read. Nice work!

when I seen the title, I knew it was a stevens. I had to do the same thing to my 12ga. Nice work.

Here is the one I made a couple years back

Well Its time I show some of my smith work, I posted about everything but smithing so heres a couple pears of tongs I made to flat and 3/8 stock

Here is the engine.

Here it is hope it works good.

http://www.facebook.com/mobileprotection#!/photo.php?v=217474345048095 Here is a ride in the cab

This is a steam Whistle I am working on for my road loco, It is 43% of a full size Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe Five note step top.

I started with a small Mouse Hole 125#, it was in tough shape. { was my dads anvil } The first anvil I bought was a mint 300# Peter Wright. I love that anvil. { that was 20 years ago, I was just out of high school. } Had a chance to buy my friends anvil 2 years ago 350# Hay Budden, it went for $1600.00. didn't get it but did go to a good home and will be used.

here are the two I have. they are a very handy thing to have.

Greenriver vise's all had Caulking and Bolt header dies when new. I just got caulking Dies with mine, not even the stop. The guy I got it from told me It never came with the bolt dies because the paint was still in the notches, but I knew better.

This is my Main anvil in the shop 300# Peter Wright

This is my 150# Peter wright, it has England stamped on the side. Jeff

Only one foot vise? Well I have two Hope you like. Lets see more foot operaded vise's Jeff

This is it in a nut shell, One should not take this and try to work over a $1500.00 blade. A saw can be recked easly. Diameter = RPM I should have said the center will touch the straight edge not fall away. 1"=100 RPM. remamber the saw is under tension so all of it will not fall away or come in cantact with the straight edge. the pictures are just to give an Idea of how it works and may not be acurate

If more tension is needed Great care should be taken because it is easy to put to much tension in a saw but difficult to take out. You will need to first draw a line half way between the rimm and center of the saw and at least two more one on either side of the first about 2 to 2.5 " apart. Start with the center line, placing every blow next to the other and with equal force. You should never have to hit a saw so hard as to leave a hammer mark! Checking tension after every round. then move to the Inner line. Then the outer line. I tend to hit a little on the lite side (beginner) I just let the hammer fall, if this is to lite I mover to a bigger hammer. If a saw has to much tension or needs to have the dish moved to the other side ( for a different handed mill). You will need to pull the tansion out, you will take the dog face hammer and work around the rim of the saw About a inch from the shanks. But removing just the right amount is very touchy.

By this point the saw should be free from High spots and be straight. Now we need to check tension to see if more work is needed. The first picture is using the adjustable gauge, with the saw laying on the slab side the fall away or dish should match the gauge pretty well. The next way Is most used by the pros and take a lot of practice. With the saw standing on the floor, pinching the rim of the saw between two fingers bump the center of the saw with your knee and feel the vibrations and watch the rim and center, they should stay fairy still while the inner area moves. The last way is to hold the long straight edge along the saw and lean it over to watch the center fall away, the diameter that falls away will indicate the RPM.

In the first picture I am taking out the lumps with a dog face hammer. In this picture I am taking out the twist with a combo cross and straight pen hammer. and taking out the ridges with the hammer flipped

If these pictures are clear, The lumps are marked with an X and the twists and ridges are marked with a line in the direction they are running.

this pitcher shows the slab side of the blade, most work will be done on the cant or log side

To start with use a straight edge that will reach from the canter of the saw to the rim marking all the high spots. then hammer on your marks, as you work use a shorter straight edge and so on till the plate is free from lumps twists and high spots. this maybe all you need to do if the saw is to run on the same mill it has before. I have had the best luck checking with the saw upright and then laying down.

You will need some way to check the tension of the saw and set the RPM it ia to run at. This straight-egde is long to check 48" &52" saws. This is for smaller blades. This is an ajustable tension gauge, there is a wedge to drop the middle of the gauge to set dish of saw plate. The pro's do not use this type of gauge, it would be to time consuming to rest for every saw. I have this gauge set for 500 RPM on a 8 gauge saw. The man I got the gauge from told me you set it with a Micrometer. He told me he could not remamber but it was so may thousandth per RPM. YA right! The compnay that made the gauge Is still in business so I called them to find out. " no big secret hammer you saw till it runs on your mill and set the gauge to the blade and it will be set for the naxt time you hammer your blade."