bhardy501

I kind of figured as much. I have had a Grizzly metal lathe and several other things from Grizzly but was a little skeptical of the anvil. Never hurts to ask though.

Anyone have any experienc with this anvil? Not a bad price for a 300 pounder if its any count. http://www.grizzly.com/products/300-lb-Anvil/G8150

Here is my first attempt at making anything with my forge. A pair of tongs. I know they look like crap and I dont have a punch to hot punch a hole so they are drilled and bolted. Very simple begginer tongs. They do work, evn if they look so bad. No bending forks or anything to help make nice bends. That will be coming soon.

I had also thought of using that method. I have a Rigid shop vac that I will use if I go that way. I think one of the biggest problems I had was that I ran the air continuously with no way to tone it down. It was ran on low setting, high would almost launch stuff out of the forge.

LOL, that thing got hot and then some. I think I know part of the problem, I ran the air source continously (learning curve) I also need to make a way to gate off some of the air and let it by pass. Also cut the air when not heating. As stated, serious learning curve.

I have looked at using a cast iron grate for a drain. I can get one that is about the right diameter but its only about 1/4" thick. Would this burn up as well?

Well I fired up the brake drum forge for the first time today. Had no idea what I was doing but I did it anyhow. It got hot, boy did it get hot. I had an old file that I was playing around with and it melted it clean off as well as melting away my 3/8 steel frate out of the bottom. Pics of the rake a made (not very impressive) melted off file, melted grate, whats left of the file out of the fire.

Cool, and it wont burn up the vac motor from being at less power?

Really, how is the dimmer switch put in line? Also what kind of dimmer switch do I need? Could you post a link to one?

Very nice, looking at it from the stand point of a total newb. I hope to have mine up and running soon.

Hey guys, how many CFM of air flow is needed to run a forge. I had the idea to try and see how the shop vac set up as a blower would work. I dont think it would work at all. I think it would launch hot coals out of the forge at a relatively high rate of speed :). I thought about using a hair dryer, I have seen several on youtube using this method. Any sugggestions for the air flow part of my forge. My existing pipe is 2" but I could easily step it up or down as needed.

I got to do a little more work on my forge this morning. Had just enough time to get the bottome welded on before the monsoons set in. Didnt have enough time to get the slag chipped and brushed. Got the turye (not sure of spelling) put together. Got the bottom grate built the other day just needs a little fine fittng adjustments with the grinder. I plan to build a flap cover for the bottom of the pipe but for now a pipe cap works. Its gettng closer.

Cool, thanks for the info.

When you get ready to extinguish your fire and close up shop for the day. What is the best method to put out the fire as to preserve the coke left in your fire with out ruining it or it smoldering away to ash. If you dump water on it would it not ruin it and possibly bust your cast iron forge if using cast iron such as a break drum. I have read some good info on starting the fire and maintaining it but not on putting it out. Being an ex-fire fighter my way of putting out the fire is probably not appropriate, surround and drown technique. :D

Great link, It answered questions I had but had not asked yet. I saved it to favorites. Thanks

Yes there is a big ugly hole burned into the back side. The cover is propped up on the inside so I dont lose it. I can lose anything in my shop and it be in plain site. It will be hinged onto the back side so it can be closed off when not needed.

There is several cutting torch gouges hear the horn. Is that what you are talking about?

I got started on my forge today. I didnt have the stuff to build the air piping and ash dump. So I worked on my table. I had this old mitre saw stand, I about sent it to scrap a few weeks ago. I decided to use it to build my forge stand out of.

Did a little grinding today. Dont really want to do any welding until I am absolutely ready and have averything in place. I dont want it to cycle through heat and cool several times. Doing it all at one time seemed to me the best route.

I dont know correct terminology but the depth from the bottome of the cut out section to the base of the drum is about 2". Time I build a 1/2" grate in the bottom it will raise that to approx 1.5" in depth from the bottom of the cut out. I also want to cut a smaller window on the opposite side of the big opening that can stay covered unless I need to pass through something longer to heat in the center of the work piece. Atleast that is the plan.

Here is a picture of the brake drum I am starting with. Its a brake drum off of a 48ft box trailer. I will use a 3/8 plate on the bottom and 2" pipe to build the air intake structure and the ash dump. I will also build a grate to go in the bottom out of 1/2 round bar.

Yes its about 70#. I looked at some pics of Vulcan anvils and they are very similar in style but I have seen no evidence of the circl emblem with the arm and hammer.

I have had several people tell me to do this process. I have about decided to go this route. I already have everything to do this with.

I tried striking the top and the horn with a ball peen hammer. It bounced and had a ring. I new that meant something but wasnt sure. If you hold the hammer above the anvil 5-6 in. and just let the head drop stirking the top it bounces several times and there is a resonance not a thud.

LOL, thats definitly an option. It may very well work out that way to.