aessinus

@nkearns Only a bit.  Screw ball (go ahead people, I'm calloused) is welded on, drilled for the handle & screw box is welded with key.  I've only used a single nut for the threads thus far, but I located another nut that I may weld to the 1st to double the thread length.  I'm still debating on total screw length because I've left the screw itself about 18". 

Just this am I received the email for the 1st set of spherical washers (1-9/16") from grainger are finally here for pickup.  The 2" had a 1-2 month leadtime, so maybe by mid-Dec....  2" set are for the fixed jaw to allow the key relief.

Handle is going to get @jlpservicesinc's blacksmith diamond treatment.  Huge thanks to her for the sketches of the particular facets & step-by-step instructions.  I printed the sketch & pinned it to my office wall so I can stare at it daily.  Should make the vise a bit of a showpiece.

Hopefully next week I can get back in the welding area for the lower hinge block.  Then boring the screw holes on the mill.  I may even get to EDM the hole/keyway in the fixed jaw.  Been itching to play with the Charmilles anyway.  Final grinding to bell the holes & internal keyway is all going to be by hand to get the travel arc just so. 

Still deciding on the distance from the jaws to the screw centerline.  Measured my 3 shop vises & the heavy one at work; they all are approximately 6".  I'm thinking though that around 8" down would give me more throat & I don't believe I will get any noticeable flex in the 1-1/2 x 4 tine material.... 

I'll try for some pictures this afternoon in the daylight.

I, for one, am borrowing your idea.  There are a multitude of uses for that simple loop.  As soon as I saw your 1st picture, I face-palmed.  

11 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

 Sorry about the pictures.. The pictures are right side up on my computer but when i upload them they flip.  

The forum software should have a button labeled "Hit me with your hammer"....

Way to go John!  I had already grabbed a sketch pad to draw before I saw your post.

What the devil is the proper nomenclature for the tapered mount key set?  Jib key & wedge?  Websearch didn't like any of my tries.   

"I'll post up another thread on farrier tools if you'd like.. "  Please do.  There may be a couple of folks here who like tool pictures

17 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Got one shovel done with the pattern I prefer..  Here is 1.. I will make 3 more.. But here is the start's.. 

Right-handed thumb loop for leverage? 

I stand corrected.  Should leave geology to you sir.

Maybe to much rust to weld.

24 minutes ago, BIGFO0T said:

Also if I wanted to line the pan again with clay how should I do that? What type of clay found where?

Depending on your local geography, maybe the creek or riverbed or backyard.  Sand/kaolin works also.  Kaolin=cheap cat litter

lbs, good score on the vise especially.  Post pics when you get it sorted.  Hopefully the bent handle happened when a vehicle ran over it.  Looks little used, just oxidized.

I have two 55gal drums with side blast pipes at the base and solid lids to convert scrap wood from work to all the charcoal I need & then some.

I use that charcoal exclusively in an old rivet forge with a cranked blower.  I haven't done anything with larger than 1.5"stock & you have to feed fuel pretty fast, but for smaller items it gets the job done fine.  Used anthracite years ago & the scaling was much worse.  For hobby work, I see no need to change.

Sweet deal; you might consider making something for the fellow as a thank you. 

kohlswa(dot)com is still in business.  You could email pics & markings to them to see if they have records

On ‎10‎/‎1‎/‎2016 at 4:32 PM, Frosty said:

I liked the pi for dessert thing too. Those things just come to me, it's like a super power.

Look out, Fosty is gonna get recruited to the X-men...

2 hours ago, Juc said:

provided you're using a web browser on a PC with a decent resolution, you can do the following:

• log in on the site
• click the triangle by your login name that's at the top-right of the screen, then click profile
• click edit profile, which will be in a grey box in the top-right of a bigger grey box toward the top...ish of the page.
• scroll down to the section just below where it says "Profile Information" in bold characters and location should be the 2nd option down, just below gender and above interests

Best explanation I've seen.  Marked.

1 hour ago, SkoobyNewb said:

 I was told that the anvil was an absolute steal and is worth far more than the entire purchase price for everything. 

Understatement of the year.  Depending on your location, even the vise is possibly worth your purchase price.

Re: location, as Frosy said it can matter.  User/Settings, add general location & save.  Sometimes answers are mitigated by where your cast a shadow.

Are you referring to a tapped hole?

After reading and rereading...

JLP, to me it's very similar to balancing a rotary wing blade, lengthwise & chordwise, to maximize power transmission (vibration irrelevant).  Your explanation was quite clear to me.

Kozzy, thanks for the link.  Bookmarked.

6 hours ago, Glenn said:

Then set up a home the mud dabbers CAN use to build nests. Then collect the nests and use the nests for flux. 

Have to try that; the last bucketful I gathered I used for firepot liner.

Professional presentation & a good example for OJT slides for my folks that have new people to train.

Congrats on the sales also!

Ausfire, I looked on wiki, do your dirt daubers like forges too?   The mesh over the blower intake would at least keep out mud wasps; have to remember that one.....  Our little blue ones will jam up a blower between forging weekends. 

Have to wonder how that got busted.  Under a big power hammer?  Anvil shooting?  A really enthusiastic smith get his hands on Mjölnir?

18 hours ago, Frosty said:

...  Soooo, if you'll put your general location in the header ....

Click on your User name (top left), then Settings to add your location

And welcome!  Yet another DFW area smith.

Lou, look at the 3" or 4" blast gates for dust collection systems on amazon.  They're just knocked up out of tin, so pretty cheap, but the actuation force is near nothing compared to a ball valve.  I think you'll be ecstatic with the difference.

Doh, I didn't even consider laying the flue down.  Overcomplicating designs is a bad habit... 

Thank you very much for taking the time to sketch the instructions & post pics.  That's considerable metal to move by hand.  I guess I now have a new exam to master.  I will review the videos first.   Square edges, no file, square edges, no file......

15 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

     Ideally when finished all edges should be sharp and the square sections should all be square and the triangle sections should all be sharp triangles..   Certain  finials were considered difficult to master and showed the level of mastery by the smith.. The blacksmith diamond is one such item.. 

While not that hard to make, to make them all perfect without a file is challenging..  Besides that its a fun item to make.. 

2 hours ago, Dave51B said:

 

I wouldn't think the feet are missing, the little plates are underneath the load from the pedal.   I'm guessing the base is a purpose made modification to get that baby portable & originally had a permanent post mount.  Any evidence that the leg has been shortened?

That trailer is absolutely beyond words.  Single adjectives cannot describe it.  

I have a couple of questions; how is your flue pipe setup to telescope & precisely what is a blacksmith diamond?  I think I see an 10-sided prism, with the tenth face being the joint to the base rod.  If so, you just solved an issue I've been pondering for a bit.

If the tapers are equivalent between the individual peices that are same thickness, I'd say used in combination as adjustable parallels.  I have a set of different manufacture, but the wedges are assembled together with lock screws.