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Lamey Knives

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Everything posted by Lamey Knives

  1. hi all, HW- still using the Champion #1 at this point, hopefully that will change soon. Clay was used to differentially heat treat, and the stag is very easy to work. Just drill/scrape the pith out, and fit the hole to the tang etc.... As far as fitting it to the guard, was done with a 5/8" round wheel on the grinder and blended in by hand.
  2. HI Mark, thanks for the kind words... flawless though its not ;-) The name is etched then blued, then lightly sanded over.
  3. Been a while since ive posted, trying to play catch up and dont have much time for the computer nowadays. Forged 1095 & Stag Bowie, overall length is 15-1/4", blade is 10-1/4" x 1-7/8", .260 thick at spine. Guard/pin/butt cap are stainless. Thanks!
  4. there is little to no info out there on the Dienelt/Eisenhardt hammers. Only a quick mention in the "Pounding out the Profits" book. Ive seen photos of 2, one is now on ebay. They appear to be extremely well made and well designed machines.
  5. Ive emailed back/forth with some folks in England on the Pattinson Hammers. They are set up to run fairly fast by most standards and have a fairly short stroke. You would need to get dies made, which is getting to be a costly venture.
  6. Difficult to get "activity" in 5160, but you can get a nice straight hardening line. I have had good torch heating the edge, or doing an edge quinch with 5160 and getting a line. If you do a full quinch its really hard to get a hardening line, unless you use heavy clay and heat just until the edge is critical, dont soak.
  7. thanks for the feedback fellas, IronCity, both of those are old orders for a dealer. I dont typically take orders just kinda of make what I want and sell it on my web site. Seems to work out that way pretty good. I do occasionally work with a person on a specific knife.
  8. Thanks all.... HW- forged those on my Champion, dont have the Beuadry set up yet, hope to soon though.
  9. Here are a couple of Bowies I just finished this week (have 3 more to go). Both are W2 with differential hardening lines (achieved with clay), working 400 grit polish. Handles are Ironwood, both are morstise tang construction. One has a blued steel guard, the other stainless. Blades are 10.5" x 2", overall lengths are 15.5+/-.
  10. Odd thing is the hammers were at 1200 and 1500 Buy Now when they were first listed. Guess they moved them up since then.
  11. If you buy this hammer, be sure and either remove the anvil, or chain it so that it is sure not to shift/move during lifting. Ive heard about more than 1 Bradley that has been damaged during lifting, the anvil isnt tight... shifts during the lift and shears the bolt bosses from the frame.
  12. Remember, its just another TOOL, and a tradtional one in my view, it does not "replace" the hand hammer or knowledge to use it. I used a hand hammer for about 10 years before I ever used a Power Hammer. I primarily forge knives, about 99.5% of what I do. So im working with either tool or high carbon steels exclusively. The primary steel I use is W-2, in round bar form, from 1-1/4" up to 2" rounds. A power hammer sure makes working that big round bar much easier than doing it by hand, tried it both ways. To me a Power Hammer DOES NOT REPLACE the hand hammer, it AUGMENTS the hand hammer. I do this for a living, and the power hammer is the prime tool in my shop for effeciency, and that is extremely important when every dollar you make is from that shop. I do agree that a 'smith should learn to use his hand hammer, learn the basics, learn what to hit, why and where. I relate it to bladesmiths that start making pattern welded steel (damascus) before they even learn how to make a good knife out of plain carbon steel. The difference is you can learn the basics of your craft and still learn to use a Power Hammer. As a matter of fact if you learn the basics, and learn to use a power hammer, your craft will have more room to "breath". Just opens up more opportunity, and if your also trying to make a dollar, it speeds things up WITHOUT sacrificing quality or "tradition".
  13. Steve, ive asked a few folks about the anvil, and the ruling is that its a factory job. Its an even, concentric line around the anvil and looks more like a casting or mild line than a weld, hard to tell, will know more later.
  14. Ed, thanks again. As far as I know, none of the bushings/bearings are even close to needing replacement. The previous owner checked everything over very well, disassembled the arms/rollers to inspect, so I know the rollers are like new. Im guessing this hammer either didnt see aot of work (being that there were other hammers, bigger, right next to it), OR it was very well maintained. One interesting note is it also comes with some sort of record book that gives dates of manufacture and purchaser (dont know how in depth this record book is). If its of interest and worth doing, I will put it in PDF format and link it on my web site.
  15. yep Ive talked to Hollis a few times, ive pretty much decided to "carve" out a section of my existing slab and pour a fresh pad just for this hammer.
  16. thanks Ed, i know alot of my questions are redundant, just wanting to cover all bases and do this the right way. Your input is appreciated and valued, Matt
  17. Well ive been jockying power hammers around for the past 10 years or so. In this time ive always had my eye open and ear to the ground for a Beaudry. Was really looking for one in the 100-150 lb. range, but when I got a phone call offering me the below #7 (200 lb), it didnt take a long time to decide that I wanted to buy (well I knew I wanted it immediately, affording it has been a different story). I had put several "want ads" out over the years, and this hammer is a result of one of those ads. The previous owner, who is an extremely nice guy, called me a few months ago telling me about this hammer. At the time I had just purchased most of another shop (2 hammers, 2 forged, tooling etc.), so needless to say funds were a bit tight. The owner of the Beaudry, worked with me patiently to get the hammer paid for. This hammer originally came out of "American Bridge Co." in Pittsburgh, PA. This was there "small" hammer, was next to some massive A frame hammers. From photos and conversations (many) with the previous owner, it is in excellent condition. Bearings are free yet tight, no cracks/chips in the die block, arms/rollers are excellent (owner removed rollers to inspect, they are as new). Just a very nice hammer in every way. Enough of the back story, just wanted to tell some of it. I do have a few questions that I will list below. 1- When moving, should I remove the anvil from the frame? I know this can be an issue on the Bradley hammers, but doesnt appear to be an issue on the Beaudry, input needed. 2- What the best location to lift the hammer? Im thinking a few lifting straps around the "C" area? 3- How deep a slab can i get by with? I currently have a section of my shop that has 18" deep concrete. 4- Base needed?? I will definitely have this hammer mounted on industrial conveyor belting. I may also put it on a wood base, not sure, looking for ideas on this. 5- Any start up/adjustment/tuning recomendations? 6- Can some one tell me what the bronze bushings in the last photo are for? Will probably have a few more questions as the project unfolds. Will also post more pics later, here are a few the previous owner sent me. Im happy, very happy.
  18. thats an "Abno" hammer, made in Sweden, here is a video of 2 in operation- YouTube - Blacksmith Mats Jonsson forging a candleholder
  19. sometimes i wear shorts and sandals due to the Alabama heat/humidity. Usually winds up with me cursing alot, going back inside and putting my blue jeans and blundstones back on.
  20. Any power hammer not properly bolted down is dangerous. The JYH in the video has a few other issues I would have concern with, one being the open belt right by the treadle.
  21. Yep its one of many "Little Giant" clones, so the basic pertinent info. for the LG will also apply to your hammer. There was also the "Jardine" Hammer that was made in Canada, it too a LG clone. Sid may be able to tell you what parts are interchangeable.
  22. I figure if its my time, I will go. Edited to add: here is a photo from a 100 Beaudry, more of the traditional "wire mesh" guard that completely surrounds the ram/spring assembly-
  23. Bladesmithing as a career can be done, but being able to make marketable knives is only part of the equation. The "business" side is what most good makers have trouble with (including me). In my opinion there will always be a market for sharp, tough, affordable knives. You will also have to love it, as the fun gets knocked off pretty quickly ;-)
  24. Get some photos up if possible, sounds very interesting.
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