Tom W

For starters I would think about doing some edge repair and also grinding the joint between the horn and anvil body with a angle grinder. Generally, most of the hammering is down on the horn so the top of the horn will be in tension and the bottom in compression. The top 3/4 inch to 1inch is the most important and I would think about rewelding that on the horn to body joint. After using it awhine you can see if you want to go further. Tom

Pictures of anvil repair and cracks. Tom

I recently repaired a similarly broken anvil by having (3) pieces of 1 1/2" plate waterjet cut to the correct size, beveling them and welding them on. I milled a 1" x 1" hardy hole in the side of one and drilled a pritchel hole in the other. My mistake was not sanding and inspecting the anvil before starting. I found some cracked that spider webbed through the body of the anvil. Apparently it was a low grade of wrought iron and used with a heavy sledge. I ended up welding a piece of 1" plate on top for strength. This will not be hard, but better than it was. It took alot of time and 7018 electrodes. Tom

Let me try again to post a picture of my forge cart

I welded a stand with 2 wheels so it could be rolled around with a tong and hammer rack.

I would not consider it unrepairable (if you have a welder and alot of time), I am welding a new back end on a similar one using 3 pieces of waterjet 1 1/2" plate with a slot milled in one (before welding it on) for a hardie hole. Tom

What kind of anvil was it? A cast iron anvil has no ring, only a "thud". and almost no rebound. Tom

It is an old looking forged anvil. I am not sure from the pictures, but I believe it was forged in pieces and the tail end has broken off at the weld.

I have on almost like it. I always had problems with the flat belt slipping. After reading about it on the South Bend forum, I changed the belt to an automotive serpentine belt with the multi-vees of the belt running on the flat pulleys. Unfortunately, it requires disassembling the headstock to install the endless belt. It transmits much more power than the old flat belt and I really like it.

Much of the normal hydraulic cylinder rod is 1045, is often chrome plated, and may have an induction hardened outer surface. For an aftermarket supplier, you can go to www.baileynet.com and click on rod and tube and can get a description of the rod they sell.

Matt, There are two good blacksmith groups that have monthly meetings near you (Lynchburg). Search on Old Dominion Blacksmith Association and also Blacksmith Guild of Virginia. Both have websites and are affiliated with ABANA. Get to know some of the guys there and they should be able to help. I live about 50 miles from you. My link My link Tom

As noted above, carburizing is seldom done more than .030 inches thick with hardnesses up to RC60. A case like this would probably dent on top and chip on the corners. Welding hardface would probably be the best. Tom