John Martin

Seems that we are having this question come up quite a lot latley, here is a real good example, with a tutorial, you can obviosuly modify it to be larger or smaller. Link: Charcoal Forge Gas is always another option: several kinds can be found here: Zoeller Forge

Thank you mills, that means a lot to me, but I still have so so so so much more to learn. my next attempt will be around 30-40 layers if I do it right, and don't screw up my welds.

Thanks guys, I'll finish it next week with the scales. I'll post pictures too.

This is my first piece of damascus ever. The first two are of it right out of the etch. The third is it after is been cleaned and dried. I now know, that the etch is always darker, and that file, rr spike, file w2, 10390ish, w2 do not contrast that much. It's six layers. It's a pearing knife for my mom, 7 or 8" overall, 3.5" blade, and like 3.5-4.5" handle.

I just bought a 2 burner DBIRONWORKS bladesmith forge, like 2 weeks ago, welds at 6 psi, and you can forge around 3-4psi. Amazing forge, get the idler valve with it.

Okay, I'll save up for the 100lb this summer or spring then.

Cool peter, I like it a lot. Hey guys, since I've never used one of these before, I experienced the dreaded tank freezing thing last night when I was welding. If I should the tank, it'd pop back up to pressure for about a minute, so it was heat, hammer, shake tank, heat, etc... How do I prevent the freezing up, how much gas do I probably have left, and is a bigger tank better in the long run? like 40 or 60lb? Welds at 7psi and runs at 4psi for normal working.

Like those a lot quenchcrack. Keep it up.

Jerry - My bad, I thought you were being serious, hard to tell on the internet Sam - It'd be nice if it was 3" tall, but the inside opening is 3.5" tall, so not a big deal. The forge runs at around 3-5psi for normal forging, forged a seax today and some viking knives based off of these on dfoggs site: prop knives - Bladesmith's Forum Board and my own axe from an old sledge hammer :0, ill try and get pictures up later.

Nothing, ran it for five or ten minutes, just to get it setup and figure out different, temps, its really cold here right now, and i had a basketball game today, and am tired, and don't want to stay out until midnight forging. :)

I already do Frosty, and I haven't even really used it yet. The idler valve works great, can almost turn it off and use like no propane, and then flip the switch, and bam, back to normal.

Sorry about the poor pictures it hotter and brighter than it looks and deeper in color, bad camera, but here are pics of it. These are all taking in the first three minutes of lighting it, running at 3psi. The piece of metal isn't a dull red, but a bright orange, almost yellow, bad camera.

I don't know if there is a difference. I haven't fired it up yet as I don't have any teflon tape for the connections yet. No igniter = lighter on the top of the burners...

Well, my two burner diamondback bladesmith forge came in today, I love it and I haven't even fired it yet, need to buy tape for the threads still, but anyhow here are pictures... I also bought the idler valve, should fire it up by the end of this week, will get pictures for sure. next to do is make my stand for it, but for now, i have a temp stand out in the shop "area"

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/new-anvil-stand-9604/ There's mine, based off of URI's.

Here is a picture of tentative quick thought for the forge.

So then a good sidedraft is what I should be planning for. I'm just over thinking this right??

Consider the idea stolen.