the iron dwarf

nice anvil, I cant help with the maker but someone here will

if you measure the height length and width someone here should be able to give an idea of the weight

pm sent

I could use a few pounds too, let me know how to pay and when you can drop it off

lead is a bit soft and with use the hole stretches, original ones were cast or forged from iron or steel

picked up 4 fly presses recently but 2 of them had no weights so im thinking of getting suitable sized mild steel balls, drilling a hole through them then getting them hot and drifting the hole to a square taper to suit

I only seen one poster namecalling, I dont know if the anvil was bought in that condition or if the op tried to repair it but he obviously thinks he knows a lot about anvils and did not like to be wrong.

I stand by everything I posted

our main shop anvil is only about 150 lbs but it gets very heavy use 5 days a week, often with a 14 lb hammer, it is 300 years old and should be good for another 300.

it is often used for working large bits of chrome vanadium and other tough materials and it will probably have less wear in my lifetime than yours will have with light use in a year but you are an expert and know everything

anywhere it has been welded on should be avoided by at least an inch all round and taking off 1/1000" of the surface can take decades off its life.

if it is as bad as it looks it could be no better than a chinese lump of cast iron.

the heat of welding can ruin the hardness of the  top plate over a large area

looks like lots of damage on that anvil, all of the heel and edges seems to have had welding and grinding done on it, hope you did not pay more than $50 for it

are the coils getting power

are the connectors on the right coils

if it is a 3 phase pump is it going the right way

got P and T on right way

today it was 2 fly presses and the tops for 2 more ( which will be going home with me tomorrow

one is a denbeigh number 2 and the other is the same size but I dont know the maker yet

markings can be hard to spot, you may need to light it from angles

to see them, some dont show up till years later like our main shop anvil, thought it had a stylized S and was from one maker but later found out it was a D Hill fifth foot.

I normally use a pressure washer after initial pictures, then more pix, then wirebrush, then more pix, then dry and more pix, then chalk or flour and more pix

I can supply a block of 4140 to fit your hardy hole, you are quite local to me so call in if you can, im at NN14 1QF

It is a nice old anvil, you have a hardy hole as long as tools have a good stop collar on them

a cutting table

the bick I would build up with weld maybe, do you have experience of welding wrought iron?

welding it is different from welding steel

the face is harder to deal with as it needs to be hard and fixed all over so it may be better to get a block anvil to use as well

you could try air to get the stroke measured, if the rod telescopes it will be with much less force as it will be a smaller bore and dont do a full stroke each time, I use limit switches to save time and that means I can do a stroke in less than 1 second

nice group of fractures you have there, looks like a tree root

the top of my forges are about 30" unless requested otherwise, this is due to it being the average height I found and the legs pack into the case for shipping, forge is about 24" square and 6" deep.

one is now on its way to new zealand and that is almost exactly the opposite side of the globe, an other is going to wales on monday so they need to pack up easily

humidity here is predicted at 76% on saturday for worcester, I will be there trading at an event but at least it is getting cooler

I was 17 before your father was born probably and TP is older still

so you know how much your press will weigh but probably dont have experience designing, building and using presses, I made my first one about 1980 and was still using it until about 2 years ago when I sold it and built a new one, made about a dozen in between for other people.

the press I use now weighs about 70 lbs and can do a stroke in less than a second, I can also get it to stop anywhere I want with an accuracy of about 100th of an inch, speed is important in forging presses

a 400 pound press would not be a lot of use, I made the smallest and lightest powered hydraulic press I could that is usable and that is over 20,000 pounds ( a little over 10 tons )

30 minutes ago, Gods Metal Works said:

I do know the anvil is very old.

our main shop anvil is 300 years old, we have older and make replicas of 1000 year old anvils to use and then sell, less than 150 years is brand new to us

just weld it over the entire area rather than round the edges

tack a 3/8" square down the length of the top, place on the top plate and weld first on one side then the other until you reach the edges so the entire area is welded

I have stainless steel springs but maybe they dont exist according to steve miller

a friend works for a major spring maker and has springs made of titanium, glass and even concrete

most solenoid valves have a manual button, try it with the pump turned off first to see if both move, it may be stuck.

then check there is a voltage to each coil when there should be and that the coils are not open or short circuited

yes hayden you have a burner that does not work designed by someone who does not care if people get hurt, it would be better to build a burner of a proven design that does not include the faults listed in the previous post

if TKOR knew anything about gas forges he would not have included those faults

how have you lined your forge?

I hope you have not left exposed ceramic fibers in there as they are very bad for your lungs a bit like asbestos, it needs coating before it gets hot for the first time

anything by the king of randumb should be avoided, his aim seems to be to help people win a darwin

( anyone know if he is still locked up for the explosives incident? )

do you know anyone who works on cars, springs, torsion bars, drive shafts