macbruce

I like the ball bearing mouse trap....................A tomcat!!!:lol:

Interesting stuff, the bronze guy better raise his anvil or he'll be giving the acupuncture Dr. allot of business...........mb

Water? I wouldn't do that. I would soak it with some WD40 then use a blowgun to get the crap out. If you can take it apart first that would be even better. If you haven't ever done it before, you can do more harm than good. Old motors can be well worth saving, they were built to last. Sometimes all the need is new brushes and that's no big deal Pix would help...............mb

I never gave it much thought.......I simply address the anvil the way I always do.....It matters not ;)

This thing pales in comparison to your work, but it did keep the bugaboos under my son's bed at bay for many a year....mb

I recon the only master smith you could get an absolute, definitive answer from has passed.....RIP, Francis Whitaker. He was a righty and the horn was left.......I think I know what he would have said.

Sorry, alloy 464 is naval brass. Alloy 642 is the one you want. Atlas only sells alu bz in ingot form....... Can't help with the strip, but I have some 1 3/4 sq forged from 2'' rd, it forges real easy.............mb

I have some 464, where are you?

I lifted a 50# little giant into my truck after 76 abana conference. It was in a demo shed (which were pretty sturdy) that had open trusses inside. Me and another guy reasoned that threading a 1 1/2 round bar about 12' long up through the trusses the bar was supported by 5 or more trusses. Not too much for 5 2x8's right ?......... we hooked to the steel bar hoisted the thing with a compound come along high enough to get my truck under it , and who should come along but the park superintendent ! He was NOT happy........But didn't want it back on the floor either so I pulled the truck under it........''All's well that ends well'' Getting the thing off my truck at the start of the conference was a sight to behold,7-10 guys who all thought they knew what they were doing pounced on the task an wrangled the thing to the floor. A Chinese fire drill came to mind, I just backed away and watched, I prize my feet. ...........mb

The pedinghaus has been on concrete for 30 years, but it does have a piece of wood between it and the concrete. Think I'll do it to this one as well, thanks. I'm not always a keen observer of the obvious :blink:

After the departure of my 500# columbian anvil ( a begining knife smith bought it and wanted to know if it was perhaps too large, I can't fathom his thinking but I didn't talk him out of either). Mr Wright is shown celebrating his removal from under the platen table after many a year. The 165 pedinghaus no longer feels slighted , so all in all the shop is none the worse off. The PW is mounted on a base scrounged from around the place. 10'' sq tube filled with concrete and a 2'' steel plate on the bottom, about 300 lb. I've seen many anvils held down via chain bondage before and they require a turnbuckle . Not wanting to venture out in the blizzard today to spend $20 $30 on one, I came up with a simple alternative.......................mb

Duh, My memory isn't always the greatest source of reference. Having just looked at a k75 and I'm on the same page. Seems all hammers have to deal with side load, I would think the k75 less so with two guides. I've never had a hammer fail on account of that, just get sloppy , then adjust, shim, then replace. Course shimming a round bearing is really tough. I can't see how hardened ground shaft would prevent bearing wear any less, or are you expecting less deflection? I doubt the ka uses it, Bob's too cheap, what's in Youngdylan's................mb

Ok, how does a K75 create side loads???

Can't you see you're anvil is expecting, NO heating and beating till she's fully recovered....

You can't polish a piece of dung.....................

Don't forget a dust mask , it might be lead paint.................

I also wish I had access to the quality of junk you seem to have. Believe it or not, finding junk here is a problem, at least for me. Large salvage yards here have become uptight about allowing ''pickers'' into they're yards. Lawyers, insurance, liability and all that, seems the Chinese are the only ones entitled to that resource anymore. There are a few small yards, but they are getting to be fewer and fewer Again, your anatomy amazes me, I'm working to land a job making a life sized horse sculpture of junk. I hope I can pull it off half as well as you........mb

Welcome Aboard M8, I wish I had you're sense of anatomy , you got a talent for that......now start heatin' an' beatin'.....cheers...mb

I found pix of the tire hammer at practicalmachinist.com , but no plans. I was going to pass them along ..................... Maybe you know? It looks like the perfect low budget tyro hammer........mb

As a ''first torch'' I would bite the bullet and go with OA. Act. will cost more in the short run but be perfect for local heats. Ox lpg is cheaper fuel but uses allot more ox............You pay the piper either way........mb One other consideration, for doing work that requires lighting and relighting the torch IE rivets, oxy lpg can be a pain to light compared to OA.

Looks like a never ending project. Do you need a hammer or a project?.............mb