LarryM

These pictures are of the place where I've worked past few years. Most of want you can see is from front of the shop. (garage) It's real quiet out there when you are by yourself. Larry

Russell, Just so you know gold color screw means black (line) wire should be connected to it. Which is what you see with the switch. The white wire is a neutral which completes to circuit. If you look on wall plug you see silver colored screws on one side and gold colored on the other. Which means the white (neutral) wire goes there. The same thing applies to electrical extension cords if you change the cord end look for gold and silver screws, and wire accordingly. Thats why these days we have a wider blade on male plug. So neutral wire is to neutral, and line wire is to line. The green wire is a ground wire which just connects all the electrical equipment together. That way you don't become the ground, and shocked.

Just so you know there is a lot of aluminum work to be had around boats and marinas I have done alot of boat repair work in the past. I like aluminum because won't rust, and you don't have to paint it. Larry

Most of the barbed wire I have purchased lately is not galvanized. It has a cadmium coating much like the bolts you buy these days. So I think if look around you may be able to buy the same wire. Larry

Paul, This link gives specs for one brand of sucker rod. In the picture shown you are looking at the male end of the rod. This link was shared by IFI member Irnsrgn, one night in the chat room, that I bookmarked. So Thanks Irnsrgn. To answer your question, It is used link the above ground mechanical pump rig to the underground pump unit. This pumps are used to pump oil and etc. from bottom of a well. Nos, Look on the flats of the square part of the ends, to see what kind of steel your rod is. Let your imagination be your guide as to what make with your material. Larry

kovacija try this link it will convert psi to bar for you Online Conversion - Pressure Conversion Hope this helps ya Larry

What part did you break? Pictures please, we should be able tell you how make the replacement part. Larry

This a great idea to store a cord. The only addition I would make is to wire a 4 way outlet box and bolt it to the out side of the bucket. Then fed the cord so you would be pulling the male end of the cord back to the receptacle. That way you can have more than one power tool plugged in a once. Larry

If you are having trouble striking and arc try think of striking a match. Don't tap, just pretend you have a match in the electrode holder. I would try 6011 for the thin sheet it is a quick freeze rod. When you whip it in and out of the weld puddle you will notice want I mean. With that small of a welder, try 3/32 or 1/16 rod on the lower amp setting. You might be surprised how well it will work for you. Larry

Depending on how many amperes your welder will produce as to whether it is too small for thickness of steel being welded. Weld preparation is also important. You can get better penetration at lower amps, With a smaller size rod. Vee out weld seam, Then run stringer beads. I'm more in favor of a stick welder because it has less things to go wrong. Mig requires gas cylinder if you're not using flux core wire. Some other comsumable include gun tips, gun nozzles, gun liners, if it gets kink or worn. So my advice is stay with your stick welder or buy bigger stick welder for thicker steel. Larry

O.K. guys here's my pick this young man has only been a member of IFI since last month. He has made 60 plus posts. His screen name is kovacija, From what I can see from some of his posts he is a determine young man and only whats to learn more about blacksmithing. I don't know him personally but he is 17 years old. I have sent him instructions via E-mail to get permission from his parents. If you read some of his posts you'll see what I mean Larry

Egmaster, Welcome IForgeIron. To answer your question about the concentric rings It is designed as a flame holder. The idea is to slow the air flow at the tip of the burn. This way the flame will stay at the tip of the burner tube, or rather just inside the tip of the burner. But there is a easier way most smiths use what is call a burner flare at the tip of the burner. Flares are just a tapered piece of pipe that does the same thing. The cast refractory will work, but most smiths prefer the blanket material with the paint on coating. The link below will also give you some more ideas on forges and gas burners Zoeller Forge Hope this helps Larry

Here's a link to a set of plans to get you started on you power hammer. Yes combination dies will be more useful. Which are rounded on one and flat on the other. http://www.ferrumdg.com/ferrum/images/stories/PDF/krusty.pdf hope this helps Larry

If there going to be used to reinforce concrete. I 'd bend the squares and weld one corner. Three less cuts to make per square. Larry

If it is close by you then go weld with to see how it works. Make sure it will weld at all the setting on the dial. BTW that is Lincoln 225 A.C. Amp welder, Alot of people call them tomestones because of their shape. It is a real workhorse if it works that is a good price. It is a 220 volt input so might have to make new curcuit to hook it up to house current. These days the copper in leads is worth quite bit. Larry