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rsilver4

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Everything posted by rsilver4

  1. Hi Barry,thanks.There is no reason to anneal before forgeing,you anneal mainly to soften the steel before coldworking it such as filework.I get it up to a yellow heat and forge away Best Regards Butch
  2. Thank you for that. ....Regards Butch
  3. Thanks Thomas,I know you are right on the recovery,and I do have a lot of smithin material to read through ---Regards Butch
  4. You can correct the bulge by cooling the side that's out too far with water and leave the other side hot and redrift,done it a bunch of times--even thickness on both sides and an even heat is very important,but sometimes it goes wrong anyway Regards Butch
  5. Thank you George,I appreciate that- -Regards Butch
  6. Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words,going to be tough not forgeing for a while dangit!! Regards - Butch ps: the wood is curly maple
  7. Here is a hawk I forged from a 32 oz. ball pein,been laid up for two weeks after prostate surgery,can't forge for a while-patience is not my strong suit--I don't know if I attached the photo right or not,if you can see it thanks for looking--Regards Butch--Added a pic of the sheath--
  8. Hi,that's one of mine,I sell mainly on Ebay,a pretty cool twist,a little time consuming to do right,but a good excercise in chiseling.thanks for posting---Regards Butch
  9. Hi great job,matt was right no need to anneal unless youre going to grind or file cold.I have done a pile of them and it is a job to hand forge them,I couldn't do it without my faithful tirehammer--keep on hammerin Regards Butch
  10. Beautiful job,congratulations,you should be proud--Regards Butch
  11. Go to this site,they have the no-weld grinder plans-- US Knife Makers!, Operated by a knifemaker for knifemakers!
  12. You should have normalized the blade a couple of times before the quench,if you get any warping you can straighten then.To normalize heat to orange or non-magnetic and let cool to black---Regards Butch
  13. Late to the party but here are a couple of mine--Regards Butch
  14. Got mine from these guys,did a great job-- Harper Manufacturing
  15. You don't anneal before forging, you forge at high orange heat anyway,you anneal before you finish the shaping and grinding, then quench and temper----Regards Butch
  16. Yes I used a standard teardrop drift,and you are right about lack of material,I have screwed up a few spikes trying to get the eye centered.Thats why I don't do many.I did upset the spike end to get enough material for the blade-Thanks glad you liked it-Regards Butch

  17. Yes I used a standard teardrop drift,and you are right about lack of material,I have screwed up a few spikes trying to get the eye centered.Thats why I don't do many.I did upset the spike end to get enough material for the blade-Thanks glad you liked it-Regards Butch

  18. Yes I used a standard teardrop drift,and you are right about lack of material,I have screwed up a few spikes trying to get the eye centered.Thats why I don't do many.I did upset the spike end to get enough material for the blade-Thanks glad you liked it-Regards Butch

  19. Could possibly be cast steel ,don't know,if so it would be worth it.I personally would want to put a hammer to it:D
  20. I don't know if anybody is interested,but this 100 lb. anvil is listed as a steel anvil-Regards Butch 100 lb. Steel Anvil (WT Import) at Wholesale Tool Company | Industrial Machinery + Tool Supply
  21. Here's a knife,hawk and cobra,used a ton of em-Regards Butch They also make great steak flippers,spoons,etc--
  22. Hi Ben,how are you,hope you can make the next meeting.I bought one of Diamondbacks Ironworks and so did Ray believe it or not.The forge is very well made and performs great at a real good price.Dennis has a pretty good website,you can check the forges out there.Hope to see you next week--Regards Butch

  23. I have turned the gas off to do texturing on a few things,leaves a bumpy porous texture-Regards butch
  24. I recently bought a 2 burner blacksmith model,I am very pleased with it.I usually run it at 5 psi I haven't tried welding in it yet, but I have no doubt it's up to it.Dennis is a very nice guy and I picked it up at his shop.The idler valve is nothing but a ball valve with a stop to keep it from closing all the way.You can't beat the price either.If you can, invest in a 100 lb. tank,lasts a good long time and won't freeze up on you---Regards Butch
  25. This site has the no weld grinder plans--Regards Butch Whoops someone beat me to it!
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