ironsmith

Hey Frosty thanks for the compliment, And FF thanks for the critique I really appreciate it! this was the first crane i have done , and first forge welded frame as well,

I got frustrated near the end of the bird, and let my adherence to workmanship lapse LOL. all in all it's a great project to learn from...

hey guys,

forged this today in the shop, took about 3 hours.

the hardest part was the last two forge welds. 3 attempts but finally got it.

what do ya think?

I think you can visit phillip simmons old shop, not sure though...

well, here is another hammer i made this weekend, I believe my fuller dies are just a wee bit small for this size hammer, it weighs in
around 4 lbs.

had to punch the hole by hand by myself. other than that it was all on the PH.

for the jimmy stewart fans, i prefer a pooka! named Harvey.

well, just made another one today. Came out way better than this one! I will post pics in a week as it's in my friends shop.

I noticed the edge was bigger on the tip, I will take your advice and grind it back. good tip!

I saw some pics on facebook of that david,
here is a pic of the finished hammer, got some cool colors on it
but i am afraid the flat die didn't draw too well...

Clay spencer suggests preheating tool steals before welding to mild. I didn't bother as it is only 5/8" h13, welding to a piece of 1/4 mild i figured there would be plenty of penetration to do the job... worked on this one, will see on the next LOL.

only thing i can say is lowe's steel definately not cheap!
try flipping more often to the other side, couple hits then flip, go slow... and lighten up the blowes.

Ive been wanting to get the shop manuals available from brent bailey, he has used a ph to punch holes for a hammer. he's out of them for the moment..

the punch pictured is the one i used, it took three heats to punch the eye. I did not have any problem with the punch sticking too badly. my "biscuit" did not come out to well so well and I had a ragged edge inside the hole. the punch was made from H-13 and welded to a mild steel handle. I to need to make a cupping tool for my hammer.

Also I have a clay spencer tire hammer, I used just a piece of half inch plate with no die welded to it for the clearance i needed to punch the hole.
hope that helps.
I need to weigh the hammer but i am guessing about 2 lbs?

Are you still practicing the hit and remove the punch, process like Brian uses with a striker?

When i punched the hole i just went a few hits took it out to check and went back at it, no need to hit and move if your straight and level on a power hammer, it seems but I am a newb at it so....

well here is a picture of the dies used for cheeking, and the fullering for the hammer.

I need to make a die for cupping now...

decided to try out some dies Brian Brazeal and Lyle left with me for the power hammer,

below is the hammer i just made. and since i do not have a striker i made a punch for the power hammer

thats the picture that isn't a hammer LOL.

cheers!

one thing i wouldn't do is weld in the bottom "die" fuller. that way you can change it out for a butcher or other radii fullers. also i have seen it recommended to use a buisness card as a shim for fitting the angle iron pieces. that way you will have the clearance to remove the dies easily and still be good on their alignment.

hey guys, this is something I found interesting that some like minded folks might like to see as well.

its a book called " 507 mechanical movements "

its all illistrations and brief discriptions


here is a link from the internet archive.

http://archive.org/details/fivehundredands00browgoog

if your not wanting to spend a lot of money on a hammer , and have no interest in making one right now, go to http://www.hammersource.com/Blacksmithing_Hammers_and_Tongs/ they have the cheapest prices on entry level hammers. they also are now selling big blu hammers fyi.

Hey Vaughn , i have an anvil that looks similar to that one. only in better shape. It's in need of repair but not that bad! I seem to remember something about it being a fisher/norris. anyway, once i have the repairs done i may sell it.

same here...

LDW here makes really nice copper jewelry, check out his picasa for pictures.

definately prime keg space there, fill with ice and use it to quench, well your thirst anyway :)

love the guns repaired sign too on that one macbruce...

well, here's something that came up on a search. its a farrier doll with blacksmith tools, lol Points for accuracy.
http://whistle-stop.com/store/product/29443/FARRIER-W-BLACKSMITH-TOOLS-8/

those plans are really well done sam,
I did some figuring on a pulley calculator, and if you put a 2 inch v belt pully on the motor, and a 4 inch pully on the grinder shaft you will get 3500 RPM
for the grinder. if that turns out to still be too fast you can increase the diameter of the grinder side ( driven) pully to slow it down.
This would be the cheapest solution. and the motor would run without modification. hope that helps...

if it's ac , you can use a variac to slow it down, just make sure it is rated for the hp or wattage. if you had the money a motor controller would be awesome as well.
you will lose torque slowing it down though.