ironsmith

here's  a few i just took,

hope ya like em :)

i'll see what i can do :)

My youngest son Liam saw the new Hobbit movie a few weeks ago and asked if i could make a dragon for him.

This is what i came up with. What do you think?

Hey Frank,

Thanks for sharing!

my favorite part was your quote

Nice! That's a conversation piece for sure  :D

If you can find a serial, call the police station for more info! :P

Cool, Thanks for the info! Gonna leave it be :)

and add a drop or two as needed...

Hey guys,

Just got this Blower and i have some questions.

The blower functions great and the gears are in great condition. there is a lot of play in the bushings.

My main question is how much oil is it supposed to be in there.

I filled it up to the first bushing and (half a quart) and almost all of it  poored from the worm gear at the bottom drive where the fan attaches.

do i need to rebuild the bushings?  or is that normal to have just a little oil at the bottom?

Thanks Glenn, I was thinking of getting an 18 inch pipe nipple, cut the top 3 inches for the base to T section, then use the rest for the bottom drop. then weld up a counterweight hinged ash dump at the end. waiting on a friend to get back to me about a blower. then I will figure out plumbing that up.

Cool, Thats a very valid point. I was thinking cast malleable/ductile would be safer to weld, pipe fittings are probably just plain cast.  better safe than sorry!

Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion! could you give me a reason why? i would like to know what it would benefit?

I am planning to drill a half inch hole through and put in a clinker breaker like the one in my Table i have now.

regards,

it's about 3 inches, didn't measure the depth I know what you mean about procrastinating!

I gotta have this done soon. going to a class and need it to forge with.

Hey guys,

Can't afford a forge pot now so i looked around at some scrap i got from work. here is what I came up with so far.

I bought a 2.5 inch T for the blower/ clean out  for 12 bucks,

http://www.hammersource.com/Blacksmithing_Hammers_and_Tongs/

http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/farrier-rounding-hammer.html

www.nctool.com

or any other farrier supply.

looks great for an "improvised" attempt!  on the other picture my favorite is the second from the left.

went back to Tech for another associates degree. man homework gets in the way of the fun ;)

Thanks for the Suggestions Mike,  I had thought of radial loads on the Cylinder rod but figured the guides would control any canting or binding. now that I re-evaluate it  you seem to have hit the nail on the head so to speak. I will have to take another look at the design in that regards.

as far as being whippy i do have some 3/4 x 6 bar if it needs it i will probably give your suggestion a try!

Again thanks for the suggestions I do appreciate them!

Trinculo, that is a cool looking hammer for sure, I wouldn't have thought to run the cylinder like that, I have never seen one like it. also what is the diameter of your anvil on that hammer?

thanks again!

Jody

thanks for the invite!

this one is going to be simple, it's going to actuate when the foot peddle is pressed, and retract when you let off the pedal.

this way i can do just single hits, later on i may replumb for a traditional hammer but this way i only spend 30 bucks on the total plumbing.

the hammer head is going to be just under 100 lbs. I have plenty of room to grow, At 100 psi it can lift about 400 lbs. according to the math ;)

not counting friction from the guides of course.  I may take u up on taking a look at your hammer , do you have any pics to share?

regards,

now that is cool! thanks for sharing...

what a chore this weekend... Bought a Nice amrok band saw, and had to load and move it by myself. at least 400 lbs. took it apart and brought it in piece by piece.

after that i put the guides on my hammer and mocked up the hammer head, it's temporarily put together i need to do some finish welding and bolt all the pieces up.

anyway here's the pictures,

Here is the mock up  still need to bolt her together, you can see the cylinder and hammer all together

front of hammer and nice view of slides/guides

Critiques welcome, if you see something i might need to address let me know :)

Hey guys, here is a pic or two of my air hammer build.

I am still in progress but i will post more pics when i am done let me know if you see some problems as i do not have plans and

am building ad hoc.

thanks,

Below is the upright and the anvil, the upright is an I beam from a Lowes store i worked at, the anvil is welded from orderpicker forks (6 of em ) and is 6" x 6" x 36"

This is the hammer, air cylinder assembly, I went with a bolt on assembly so that the throat hight could be changed depending on the hight of what i am working on.

you cant see it but i welded two pieces of angle iron to the back of the hammer to act as a guide and I am using Umhw for the back spacing , it all seems to center up ok , hope it works out.

I am also going simple on the plumbing. i am using a foot operated 2 way / 5 port  valve to actuate the cylinder.

at rest it retracts and holds the hammer head. when depressed it pushes the hammer down.

thanks for looking!

Bought a 2.5 inch cylinder with 24 inch throw for the air hammer, at 100 psi i can get 400lbs of pull! so i am good there,

thanks for the suggestions and replies!

Frank, your cornpone made me chuckle this time. :D

I am in agreement about the 1045. also if it were me i would do the upsetting first so when the eye is punched your more likely to have it centered.

LOL vaughn

it does look over complex, reminds me of the Appalachian  Rusty design.

they talk about your specific board doing the same thing here http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/5910-DC-treadmill-motor-wiring-info-needed

it might get you going in the right place.