Stash

Bud- you have 4 square feet to spare! Time to add a bump- out.

Steve

Unfortunately, Doug (DSW) passed a few years ago.

Steve

You might look for a sawyer who uses a Woodmizer. They can go through blades and if not able to be resharpened, just tossem. I have a few laying around, and I think they are ~1 1/2" wide. Easy to cut- to- length.

Steve

Welcome from eastern PA.

Steve

Yeah, that's a hard 'pass'.

Steve

I would also miss the ability to weld somewhat rusty or dirty metal with 6010 or 6011 rods.

Steve

Late to the game here, just catching up. Wow. Thomas and family are in my prayers. May they experience comfort and a peace that surpasses all understanding. Get well, Thomas. Blessings

Steve Eshelman

Ignoring the missing part of the leg, I would definitely straighten the static leg. I think once that is done, the elevated top of the jaw will be pulled down into the proper alignment. I straightened both legs of a vise that were bowed in to the point where the jaws weren't touching. I got them hot, hooked the 'ski slope' over the tail of the anvil so the concave section was flat on the face, and placed a flatter on the high spot and gave a few good whacks. Quick  and easy, it did the trick. It more than likely is wrought iron, so you can get it yellow.

As far as the missing leg, I offer another thought. Don’t bother. I have a vise with a missing leg mounted on my workbench. I simply 'raised the floor' by bolting a 3x3" block of wood to the bench so it was a tight fit under the mounted and bolted vise. If it gets towards the top of my 'to do' list, I might repair the leg, but this treatment put me in business quick and easy.

Opinions and options abound, they are all valid and sound. Your call.

Steve

Didn't gravity do most of the work? Looks good. 

Steve

David- thank you for sharing the piece, and your story. You certainly have the technical skills, but more important you have something deeper to push those skills to another level. Keep making, keep sharing that way you honor the memory that drives you.

Steve

Wow, that is really nice. The only thing falling out of my head these days is hair. Thanks for sharing.

Steve

I recently found a similar set of screws. haven't firmed things up yet- I'm thinking of using both, adding some sprockets and roller chain, and making a parallel  jaw vise of some kind. can't wait to see what you're going to do.

Steve

Greetings from SE PA. Don't forget- it's supposed to be fun.

Steve

Well, you have the blast cabinet. I would be tempted to use something that won't etch the metal of the anvil- walnut shells or glass beads, or.....

Steve

Ditto John above- that's a pretty good price. Give it a try, see how it works for you, and stock up! Is that from the Fisher mine in English Center?

Steve

I'm looking at the air slot in the tuyere- strikes me as being pretty large to be able to keep up with the air from the blower. To use it as a bottom blast I would consider replacing the tuyere as is, dropping it below the table with a tee fitting, one end of the tee feeding the forge thru a smaller drilled or slotted grate, the down end of the tee with a flap door to periodically empty clinker and ash. That would effectively make your forge pot a little bit deeper- 4" would work to get more fire under your work. PoP is not needed- make your firepot from 3/8" stock and you should be fine. 

Steve

Yeah- Das is in the west end of the state, I'm in the east. You're invited to whoever is closer. The cast date and mounting lug kinda tells me it's a Fisher- cast iron base with a tool steel top- a very good and quiet anvil. The stamped numbers and letter are most likely aftermarket, put on at the shop for inventory control/ID. As everyone else has said, pics help.

Steve

I'm curious about the 'cliphorn'- it looks more like someone welded on a chunk of round bar to make it a farrier's anvil. Or am I just seeing things?

Steve

Straightening the jaw is easy (relatively speaking). I got it apart and hot, hooked it over the end of the anvil and drove it flat with a flatter and heavy sledge. Don't hit it directly with the hammer- you'll just forge it, and you don't want that. If you don't have a flatter, just set a piece of heavy plate over it, and whack away. The mounting bracket and spring are easy to make up, and have been discussed many times. How does the screw look? If that's good, you're golden.

Steve

I've probably done all of these at one time or another. I've used solder like Iron Dragon used copper I've used wood shim stock or splits of cedar shingles. Copper flashing. Cardboard. Steel wool. Whatever is within arm's reach when I'm looking for a solution. All with varying degrees of success and longevity. Adapt. Improvise. Overcome.

Steve

Wouldn't be a bad anvil to add to the harem, if the price is right. The edges are a bit chewed up, but that is a bargaining point.

Steve

Ok Anvil-  I will give you the credit as I pass the info forward. Thanks.

Steve

Aaron- you are correct in your thinking. That Fisher was cast to be 120#, and as Frosty said, there is typically variation in stamped/cast weight vs actual weight. Maybe the guy weighed the anvil and stump? 

Steve

A little trick I saw Joey van der Steeg use to easily tighten a loose hardy stem is to wrap it with a bit of duct tape. Sounds like blasphemy but it works a treat taking out some of those annoying little wiggles, and last surprisingly a long time. 

Steve

Yup. Been there, done that.

Steve