Norseman C.B.

Well, this is what I came up with. I realize the obvious design flaws now, but it does the job for right now. Once the bricks heated up, things heated much faster. I limit in length I can heat is about 12" in length. I still have some tweaking to do with the upper bricks, just trying to come up with a way to help contain the heat. It was a pretty fun project though,and the best part is I only have $21.00 invested (diesel fuel)!

Ive got a unit like that one I've been wanting to set up a vertcal forge with using a mixture of waste oil waste cooking oil and just enough diesel to thin it some, screened before the feed pump I think welding temps should be no problem...my thoughts dont always work but I always learn something from the experiences be it good or bad ;)

Cliff, I don't know how to continue praying, has Anthony's condition improved or has it gone totally the other way? I hope not and pray not, how then should I pray? No matter which way it goes I give thanks to our Lord and Savior for his grace in our lives that brings us salvation. May his blessings continue to fall on your families . In all things give thanks, Jerry

Jerry;
Tony's condition is improving and I pray for his recovery in full as a brother should.
I thank you and everyone for your prayers and concern
Bless you all.... Cliff

GOD bless you and Thank you all for your prayers and replies for my brother's illness ...

My younger brother Anthony is undergoing chemotherapy for lymphoma and is really in need of the power of prayer in numbers from our brothers and sisters in Christ for strength to get through it.
Thank you one and all.....Clifford.

I shot lots of them too as a kid nice work... B)

For the record, here's the anvil...

I would love to find one in that good of shape that aint rediculously over priced !! B)

that should work fine TD mine is similar save for my bottle is mounted underneath the table top of 1/4" diamond plate on a 3/4" plywood deck. The frame is 1 1/2" angle iron with wheels mounted on the back and level screws on the front ...(Easy to roll around and store) one of these days I'll post pics of my toys see ya.... CB

Oh yeah;
another neat trick if yer interested if you quench each bend at different temps. you will get different tones per section and it sounds cool .......... B)

Looks good T.D. I've used leather strapping to hang mine with and used twisted square stock for the clanger with a tapered loop eye lots of angles to consider for that have fun C.B. B)

I too have a fuel oil furnace burner similar to that,I'm going to use it for my new foundry furnace after modifying it (if necessary) burn bio or petroleum waste oil.
They are out there, check with demolition contractors or general contractors doing an up grade, you can usually get them for hauling it off or real cheap.
Good luck........... B)

I wish to thank all of you for your input on this subject, sadly: upon further investigation my free anvil is definately an ASO cast from malleable cast iron it was bought at a flea market in L.A. Ca. many years ago.
My guess is it's a mexican copy casting I'll just have to beat on it till find or make a decent one, then sell it for scrap and maybe buy a hot dog for lunch on the proceeds of the sale ............Clifford :rolleyes:

Looks great I bet assembly was fun....My lineage came from Norvege.. B)

2Dogs ;I think there is a Munnell and Sherrill Industrial hardware store on your side of the hill, should be in the phone book ...check it out lots o stuff to be had there... B)

Thanks Ulric this looks interesting and I have most of the elements at hand for this
B)

A wise, well off old man said to my brother who relayed it to me;
If you do the best work you can every day the money will come....
Made perfect sense to me.. B)

I sent a picture to Nikon and the identified it as a...

" ...Type 3 stand for Nikon Autocollimator "

That would, with some mods., make one great omnidirectional part holding device for welding ,brazing or soldering or assembly or.....???? I woudnt mind having one myself......... B)

Unfortunately, like most anything, the value is best determined between the seller and the buyer. Put another way, a freind has a very similar if not larger machine laying in his yard, very complete, which he would love to have go to a good home for free. I would take it but for the several similar ones I already own. Don't recall ever paying more than a hundred dollars for one, though some one did a nice job coupling an old truck transmission to drive your drill press.
Now the drill bits on the other hand, there's some value to them.
Bear in mind, I live in an area still rich with the detritus of the industrial revolution, though vanishing quickly. To one not so well equipped, that drill press, useful as it still is, could be worth a few hundred, but since I've no idea where you are located, I can't be more helpful, other than to tell you that most metal-workers worth their salt should have one.

Is this freebie on the west coast ?

Here are some pics.

The anvil that came with it weighs 158 lbs - I was able to get it in my trunk on my own without much fuss. I had to have help getting the block in my back seat, though. It sure seemed heavier than the anvil.

The top measures 15" x 16" and it's 14" tall. The slots are 11/16".

That was origionally a part or vice mounting table for a radial drill press
.but the uses for it are limited only to the imagination.......... B)

mini platen table?
Phil

I like that idea Phil .... B)

The duracraft anvil just posted in the gallery looks just like the one I have but mine has no I.D. marks on it anywhere mine is cast as well, anyone know the particulars on duracraft or perhaps copies of Im really curious about what I got and as soon as I get a link wire for my camera I'll post some photos thanks guys........... B)

Trying the lively adobe mix, with using a higher clay/ash slip as a surface coat... though now im kicking round the idea of busting up a couple old toilet tanks and letting the pieces tumble around in my cement mixer for awhile and adding that to the slip.

Ulric; would you explain this lively adobe mix and clay/ash slip in more detail please ?
(my skull can be thick sometimes)............... B)

Glad you found it entertaining. I originally just started it as a way to document what I was doing to show friends and family, store links to suppliers if I needed to find them again, etc, then I realized that other people might find it useful too and have been trying to broaden the appeal... talk about the science of it, why I'm doing certain things a certain way, etc. It's a little funny to me to be an utter novice at this presenting things in a lecture format.

My wife has been keeping me busy the last two weeks on other projects, so haven't had a lot of time for the forge. Still waiting to get the welding done! But at least I now have an answer concerning extra insulation in an insulating castable, and forms made for my rather unique lid. I find half of my entertainment comes from trying to accomplish unusual things. I'll probably spend more time making the foundry/forge than actually using it. Haha!

So, you ultimately went with the "traditional" kaowool after all, eh? I understand it's hard to beat for quick forging work. If I didn't have my heart set on melting glass I'd probably be doing that too. In any event, if you want to give me a link when you get your new pictures uploaded I'd be happy to pass people along to look at your work. What did you do differently with the side-arm burner?

Not doing any wild mods. just used a 2" to 1" bell reducer chucked it up in my lathe and bored it out on the inside to smooth it up then turned the o.d.'s till smooth also, then bored the 90 degree orfice on the 1" to 3/4" tee i.d. and stepped it to accept the now slick smooth bell and sweat in brass rod to stick it together, then re-chucked the whole assembly in the lathe and turned it smooth on the o.d. of the joint again. It looks much better than stock plumbing fittings and should have a much more improved air flow now without the casting flaws and the threads (My theory of course)....This is my first go round with kaowool and ITC my last one was 10"x!0" square tube with fire brick lining, got workable temps. but not welding temps. this new one should get much hotter faster without the heat loss from the untreated brick mass.(Again theoretically)... Still deciding on type of choke system I'll go with, will most likely use K.I.S.S. principal on that part.
Take care... Cliff
O.H. yeah I'm still gonna do the bigger foundry furnace and vertical forge using waste oil as fuel; My neighbor makes bio diesel and the unacceptable stuff for him is useable to me, the site you suggested looks like the one to go to for castable refractory.(Thanks).
And yes the building of toys is at least half the fun
Later.... B)

Noresman STEVE'S Welding here one of the best repairs for an anvil I know of,
is the one Rod Gunter has said.I have repaid over 35 + anvils to date with 1105 rod and all are still in good shape even the 2 in the high school metal shop that's being use by kid that have no Idea how to use an anvil right, THAT SAID the story. I have 2 on the welding table to do now
by the way where you at ? northern Ca here Good Luck

I used to be one of the machinists at South Coast Lumber in Brookings and am familiar with Steve's, asked for work there after Clinton's N.A.F.T.A. project screwed me out of the best job I ever had.(None was available at the time) K Falls is a little too far away
and I am able to do the repair, but thanks for your reply, next time I take a ride out that way I'll stop by and thank you personally... B)

Thermal spray coating is generally limited to thin layers, and is now applied with a special spray head with a hopper with OxyAc or Plasma as heat source. Sorta looks like a drywallers popcorn ceiling gun.

AFAIK, Navy still uses it to build up worn shafts before re-machining, but is only legit on topwater ships.

Lot of interest in cladding surfaces to keep weight down and improve characteristics in tech circles these days.

We used to use the early versions of that stuff on the tender I was stationed on back in late 70's early 80's we used a wire spray and powder with oxy/acet.
Also used an electro plating process with a carbon rub form and pumped a charged electrolytic fluid through it while spinning over a tub on a lathe woked pretty good on both processes... B)