Norseman C.B.

When you talk about hardfacing rod it`s important to remember what was posted above by Fosterob,they are NOT all equal.It`s kind of like saying steel is steel.You really do need to do the research and find what is applicable and what is not,just like steel.
As a related but side note,my friend brought me some carbide for use in some stone carving tools he wanted made.I made up the tools,prepared the pockets to receive the inserts and brazed the carbides into place as he had asked.When put to use on granite the carbide promptly shattered.He had used carbide suitable for wear resistance(machinist surplus) and not something that had impact resistance.I did what he had asked but he had set himself up for failure.
The tools were repaired using rods meant for refacing jackhammer bits and they got him thru the job and made him enough money to buy the real deal thru Trow and Holden,a stone tool supplier in Vermont.T&H was also where he got his education regarding the different applications for carbide.

Good job on the stand !
Nice shiny anvil on a nice shiny stand.
Have fun gettin'it dirty !
I agree with John on putting something between the anvil and the stand.

Naz.

I agree about this also but options are always nice ;)

Cal. If you want more acuracy you could cut some brass shim stock to apropriate width and length then wrap it around the bit letting the excess stick out between the chuck jaws, or If you have a lathe, or A pal with one part off some pieces of 3/8" round stock at1/2" lengths drill the needed size hole through then slit down the length of the piece to the hole with a coping saw insert bit into it and insert both in your drill chuck and tighten, A simple collet that works great, make A set of them for future use...Hope this helps Clifford B)

Fight nice now children,Sheesh !!!! B)

Some suppliers aren't nearly as expensive as others.

http://elliscustomknifeworks.hightemptools.com/castablerefractory.html

They were relatively cheap, though a 55 lb bag wasn't cheap on the shipping. There was a bit of a shipping snafu, but they eventually got it worked out and I don't hold a grudge. I link to them on my blog as suppliers. You may want to look through the links for other sources too.

What's done is done. He knows he did wrong and now wants to spend the money and time to dig himself out of the hole he made.

So if you hunt down Rob Gunter's anvil repair instructions---posted several places on the net---I know that they work well for a traditionally made anvil as a friend of mine did the same thing and after a decade or two of kicking himself, took his anvil to an anvil repair meeting of the local ABANA affiliate and had *5* hours of welding and grinding done on it to get it back to good using state. Of course it was bigger than your cute little one.

Note that if the body is cast iron and not cast steel (you didn't say and both have been used) there is a bit more of a risk but even more of a need for a good hard face.

Most hardfacing rod is NOT a good match for an anvil face. I strongly suggest you go with what Rob uses!

There are ways of making a good guess as to the maker of it if we can get good pictures of all sides including the base.

I was given an anvil by a nice old pal, A 75 pounder, it was worn to a deeply cupped shape on the face. I milled it flat only to find that the origional hard face was now on the thin side subject to denting by a missed blow. I was considering using wear hardening stainless rod for buildup and laying on a stoody hardfacing layer like I used to to do on rotary hog hammers,(After a good pre-heat of course..) the bulk of the anvil seems to be a casting, not real hard or too soft, and not an identifying mark on it. The size of it is perfect for the size restraints in my shop, was perfectly priced, and worth fixing to me... B)

I recently moved to Cnt Pnt, there may be others.....

Any high fire clay that is being disposed of will work. Toilet is prime due to the quantity from one go, but you have to smash it down quite far, below 1/4 inch screen for good results, sand-like is better. In truth old china is somewhat easier, but hard to get stuff you feel comfortable destroying because it is either expensive or you are breaking plates.

Clean the toilet before you start, and let it dry on end overnight. Trust me.

Phil

you got me thinking...and Googling

http://www.strippingknives.com/tools/taper.htm
http://www.kinzers.com/don/MachineTools/lathe_projects/
http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/Taper.html

Phil

When I got my first metal cutting lathe back in 1976, I was in the process of building a large woodturning lathe for columns and needed to cut some internal Morse tapers in the spindle and tailstock. I couldn’t find a taper attachment for the lathe I had so I built one. It was simple to make and worked so well that I put a set of plans together and sold them along with the blank stock as kits. I sold quite a few mostly to prison inmates, surprisingly.

I attached a pic of the ad that appeared in the April, 1977, edition of Popular Mechanics just for fun. I also attached part of the plans with the exploded diagram so if you want to make one, you could see just how simple it is. Sizing it for your lathe is a matter of calculation once you understand how it functions.

A machinest friend of mine droped by my work this afternoon with a 5 gallon bucket of large used allen wrenches, said they were throwing them away at work. Anyone know what kind of steel these are ? Everything from 5/16 up to 3/4" was in there. Now to find a use for them :?:

Thank you very much for the input guys,the recipe I was looking at came from the backyard casting site, the site has a wealth of info but, the recipe calls for portland cement, thus the crumble effect.would a crushed old toilet work for grog ?
I have fire clay, sand, and, pearlite for insulation,the hot layer sounds like a good idea. Would 72 hours cure time be adequate before a multi stage slow firing ?
O.H. by the way 2 dog, are you one of the 2 dogs over the hill from K falls? If so Ive seen some of your work ..Good of course.
HAMMER HAPPY DUDES Clifford B)

Hey bigun;
I like to golf and shoot, theres nothing like haulin out the trusty ol' .17 and blowin away a recaltriant ball ;)

Thanks for the replies fellas I have been using the compound
for doing simple non critical tapers but 2+ inches of travel
and re-locating for longer tapers is a pain.
Craig"s list and flea bay (Ha-Ha) haven"t been productive so far.
Again thanks guys Clifford B)

Back in my radiator repair days we used a premixed tinning soloution and an acid brush to apply it. After brushing it on the surface we used a natural gas/oxygen torch to heat the surface until the flux melted and brushed it with an acid soaked brush to spread it along the surface i/e melt brush,melt brush as needed to leave a bright layer of tinning, then lay parts together, clamp, and melt run a 60/40 lead tin solder wire in the joint this of course was done after wire brushing the parts to remove surface oxides.
And yes sand blasting is not good as it does leave silica residue behind.
(not condusive for bonding).
I might suggest that you go to your local radiator shop and offer to purchase some of this stuff and ask If the guy would let you observe the application process. Its not difficult
for a fairly dexterious person. Good luck with your project
and I hope I have shed some useable information upon you
Clifford B)

I have recently purchased and refurbished a logan /monkey wards 10x24" lathe and am looking for a taper attachment to fit.
Logan Actuator Co. is awfully proud of their new ones and I dont have a milling machine yet to make one. Anyone out there seen or heard of one for sale or trade or gimme for shipping cost ??? Thank you,

Clifford

Norseman, First of all what recipe are you using. Second home-brew refractories are not going to be as durable, or Hi-Temp as the commercial mixes. One thing you can do to improve the lining after firing it is to wet the lining, Then brush on a mixture of water, silica sand,and fire clay, Then re-fire the lining. You also can buy furnace putty to coat the interior of the forge. Or a combination furnace putty,and fire brick.

Larry

Anybody out there got one that works without
crumbling after use ??? :unsure:

Anybody out there got A good recipe that dont crumble after use ? :unsure:

Nice find littlemus the link that Old iron found looks like the right deal.
the home shop machinist is another wealth of info...and if you happen to run across another deal like that I'm looking for a small fixer upper lathe myself...
Have fun with it ..!!
CB

Nice job Tar...Does she sing as well as she looks...??

I remember seein a kit for making a welder from an old aircraft generator in the burden supply warehhouse catalog as well as the generator

CB

I tend to agree with awmawson it looks like another take on a radius cutter for like he said a round bed lathe or to clamp onto a boring bar, a speciallly made round tool post, or even the tailstock barrel to acheive an internal or external radius where you need it there are as many applications as there are imaginations out there

CB