Norseman C.B.

The last price quote I got for a .200" x 2" x 20' bar of 5160 was $75.00
Scrap price for old coil and leaf spring steel for me is $.35 PER lb. or less, More money and a known HT cycle, or less money
and experiment with HT. I'm a thrifty dude who likes to experiment and learn stuff. Some guys have bucks and an attitude that sucks when others ask questions, this is supposed to be a helpfull info site aint it Steve ???

One or more of those is on my to do list I have a glut of 5160
to make them from and in need of a battle axe handle making tool...Good Job !!!...

Forged 5160
Elkhorn handle
Silicon bronze gaurd and pommel
Hope it's pleasing to Y'all I like it ..... B)

As I posted on the Bladesmith's Forum earlier
This also is yet another classic example of
Opinions and ********* If you you like it FINE !!
if you don't OH WELL !!

Welcome; It looks like the rr iron was an andiron for a fireplace
cool lookin spoon and fork project I might suggest that you find a drop or
end cut of steel at a steel yard 4" round turned up on end or a piece of plate
2" or better by 8"or 10" square or a rectangle of similar dimensions standing on edge
either one would be a good useable starter anvil with a sturdy stand
happy hammerin ...........Cliff

Cool idea ! thanx for the heads up..
I guess you survived the tsunami OK ??

O.K. fess up! Which one of you here on IFI is the actor in these commercials???

A great and sad loss too all of us iron heads

Back in my apprenticeship days I was grinding a weld and noticed an acetylene tank had a small flame under the valve and burned my hand trying to close the already closed valve, my foreman heard my rather loud explatives and smothered it with a rag, needless to say tanks were checked after that....

Nice work !!!

You might check out the Simonian bender on U tube and make a similar one or buy one from him
it looks pretty versatile........

ASSCI punch tape and APT 1 and 2 experience are out of the picture and smart Cam is outdated too!!
Gittin old sucks !!!

Safeee geeer weenoneeno safeee geer !!!!!! tooooo espensieee !!!!

I like the steel desk mount idea you can keep all your tooling organized and right close to the action
along with ease of cleanup




I think there is a model that has a desk bench type base

I've got a Logan 820 myself, good little lathe, I'll have to look up a pic of yours
Or maybe you can post a pic. ??

When are we gonna see the complete piece ????
one of the best looking pattern welds I've seen

Leave that sweet spot alone B)

Dude; I love junk yard dogs but that woofer is maaaaayyybe worth five bucks
spend some of yer five C notes on parts n plans fer one and pocket that fair amount of
left over cash fer more stuff to play with

(just my two cents)

hello i sneak in back door of this room to see your lathe is pretty. i know a machinist who will not be doing it much longer, see his wife left him and he is overwhelmed with child support payments and the general economy has him in a funk it seems he is doing anything for a buck i went to see him and it looked as if it had snowed in his shop. there he was sitting in front of a fan with a paper mask on and was turning...........FIBERGLASS!!! it seems DOW chemical will give him premium money for valves and pipe fittings in acid proof fiberglass, and with few competitors he got a niche as long as HE lasts. peace

I have on almost like it. I always had problems with the flat belt slipping. After reading about it on the South Bend forum, I changed the belt to an automotive serpentine belt with the multi-vees of the belt running on the flat pulleys. Unfortunately, it requires disassembling the headstock to install the endless belt. It transmits much more power than the old flat belt and I really like it.

Arftist, the first gears I do are probably going to be aluminum, but they are going to be fairly big and chunky. I am cast iron capable and will probably do them in either brass or cast iron, but I'm kind of curious to see how well aluminum ones will hold up.

Hi Jreed,
Thanks for the follow up reminder. I should take more pics and post.

The joint appeared ok after i ground it flush and then we crack tested it with some dye-penetrant tester; shows up hair lines! We think this is probably lack of fusion between the original surface and where i hurriedly ran the last pass. Am thinking of grinding it out, pre-heating over the forge and stuffing in more filler metal... or maybe just leave it.
New pics will probably take a while, thanks for the interest.
A.

Cool !! An adjustable camlock type vice right at the forge Hmmm, I could see many uses for it.
But as to a name for it or who designed it ?????? I'm gonna try to make one for meself now that I've seen it
thanks for showin it........

Thats a nice one...Bob