RingingAnvil

Your looking for mass - not surface area. I have seen many many 100# + anvil go for about that many dollars and tons (literally) of 50-150# solid scraps go for less than that or even free.

The smith I apprenticed under has what I know as a bridge anvil. It must be over 300lbs and lives under one of the work tables. It's footprint is 11" x 35" and working surface about 8" x 32". It is about 10" high and 2" thick at the thinest point. The arch under the face is about 6" tall and 16" at the base. (Those are all very rough estimates based on what I remember byt the way) I have always wondered about this type of anvil as well. Only time I ever used it was to upset long pieces of stock. I would drag it out from under the table and upset on it while it sat right on the floor. Sure worked well for that. I have never seen one just like it. I would love to end up with it someday so I'll start saving now. I will take a picture of the beastly thing next time I vist the master.

What a neat hammer. No clue here but very interested in learning more.

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combo dies, almost never change them.

Looks like my lighting, 'UL Blacklisted' - I like it.

I would like to hear everyone's opinion on what is a good steel for kitchen knives and why.

That is one of the coolest little anvils I have ever seen! It has a sort of 'fighting' stance...I agree; don't ask too much of it. Best of luck working yourself into more work. Welcom to IFI. That was the funniest RR anvil joke yet....There is/was a well known blacksmith from the south named Bea Hensley. Could that be the same man who made your anvil?

I would dress the working surfaces and rock the thing till i'm dead. Call the rest of it hammer personality. Listen to Dan.....

I started my smithy after five years working for a smith who had a natural gas well on his property. He had a whisper daddy as well as a larger forge that operated on a virtually free fuel source. Because of this he used gas almost always. Obviously we don't all have a well so when I left I was forced to find a good fuel source. I began with only a coal forge and i burned only coal, then started using both coal and coke at some point: sometimes seperate and sometimes together. If I am using coal only or a mix I go with the hand crank or my electric blower with an air gate. When I burn coke only (different forge) I use a small electric hairdryer with the heating element removed and switch between low and high without ever shutting it off (that is great for fast paced production work that does not fit in the 'daddy). I lost my local coal/coke source and now travel a short way for it. I added a whisper daddy on a 100# LP tank (around $70 to refill) and now have two tanks. I use it most of the time and would love to get a larger outdoor tank that is filled by AmeriGas via truck so I don't have to haul my tanks downtown. I am not sure if it would be more economical per hour to hook up a forge to the natural gas line at the house? I have recently added a whisper baby (singe burner vs. 3 burner) to do smaller work like jewlry, tools, or blades. Say what you will about propane but that is instant, clean heat. Thats another way of 'making a smaller fire'! I like every forge that I have and I use them all. Fransis said it - they both serve thier purpose. Obviously I don't need them all. If I had to pick only one set-up I would pick a good solid fuel forge with a hand crank blower and burn coal or the mix. Glad I don't have to pick just one.

Hello, I live in billings and am a full time blacksmith. I have used and worked on several different power hammers. I have a little giant in my shop and am starting a rebuild. I am NOT an authority but I might be able to help get you set up and moving in the right direction. I also have Sid's rebuilding video and would be willing to let you borrow it. It is a great source of information and Sid is the man. I also just like to meet other blacksmiths/ironworkers. Just give me a call. Travis - four0six six7zero 3two5four

Wow, nice work. I am just starting a 100# rebuild. Old style (1918) with an all metal clutch. Are you running your hammer with 3 or 5 hp?

Thomas, I have read alot of posts and replies to posts on this forum and over time. i have learned to pay close attention to a few members who have more than just rice to throw. you are one of those. thank you. you were spot on with the clutch position. not sure which scap yard - forgive me but i will be deceased. deep fried mars bar sounds interesting but redundant. my health is great but my garage is only kinda clean. take care

I ordered the dvd with my parts and watched it right away. it was top notch. the credit given to Fred Caylor was top notch. Keri was extreamly helpful and honest with me on the phone. i think it is great to have people that really give a beep about what they are doing and understand that they are part of a big thing - sorry, a little giant thing. i spent countless hours in front of a 25# in my first years as an apprentice and what a great hammer. tried to buy it several times but no luck. ended up with 354. best of luck to you with your 'new' hammer and the rebuild! do you know its' history? please share. i will send some pictures of my journey for sure.

Good to know. Thank you. This hammer will go to the scrap yard over my dead body :)

On my way Old N Rusty! Put the teapot on!

Just off hand what would you think it is wroth? The hammer was 'operational' when the smith that i bought it from aquired it but he never set it up so it sat for several years. I have freed everything up and all seems well but i have not really started to crack into it. i ordered a spring and new adjustable toggle links. i have a 5hp motor ready to go and a friend who has the equipment is making me a flat belt. I am going to swing a new set of dies soon and might need to do some work on the clutch. Every thing else is there and in good order including the factory cast iron motor mount. realistically i think i will have 4,200.00 in it when i put it to work. Obviously the hammer will pay for itself many many times over so even if it was not a bargin....and things like this vary wildly from this part of the world to that. I have never been able to find a 100# fore sale - let alone 65 miles down the road and in my very low price range (once in a lifetime opportunity for me, almost lost hope but glad i held out) - so i am really curious what they are going for. Maybe i'll take it down to the scrap yard and see what they'll give :)

I shall attempt to send a picture. The chip is a triangle shape about a half inch at the base and maybe an inch long. It is on the back side left-hand corner of the bottom die. these are fullering dies on a 100# Little Giant. i dont mean to get cheap but buying the hammer, getting it home, ordering a spring and toggle arm links, and getting a motor just about broke me. Had to jump on it though - this is the first hammer that was within my grasp and the one that i wanted. i have two good size projects in the bag and that income will allow me to get a new set of dies in a month or so. before then i would like to get the hammer operational and i think maybe these dies will do for a short time. i have my eye on the combination dies; i have used them on a different 100# LG and really liked them for most forging. thanks for all the feedback

I bought a LG with a chipped bottom die. the chip is fair sized but other than that not worn much at all and still plenty tall. Should I heat it, weld it, and re-treat it or should I just get another die? Has anyone run into a similar situation?

Ha! Like the poor staving farmer eating his cow!

I have been on the little giant site alot and did speak with Kerry on the phone. She told me that the pully was installed on the rear of the shaft at the factory when a hammer (not sure if that goes for the 100 only or for all sizes) was sold with a motor installed. The serial number was not on the books for some reason which she says happened only a few times in the company's history. I guess it is a magical mystery hammer! The numbers recorded before and after put it in May of 1918. An old fellow asked me what i was doing with it as i unloaded it. I told him that i was going to restore it and use it. He said to me "aaah, that old piece of s--t isn't worth messin' with, you'd be better off taking it to the scap yard."

I am now the proud owner of an old style LG 100# hammer! It is in great shape but has not run in years. I have looked at many pictures of 100 pounders but have not seen one set up the same way - clutch on the back outside like the new style. serial number 354. was this a 'transition' hammer? Any tips, wisdom, or information would be very welcom.

Christopher, I have worked with seven interior designers, six of them more than three times and counting, two of them on a regular basis (as in 5+ projects per year). acrhitects or genral contractors are similar but slightly different. Here is how i handle it and this is just me; they contact me about a project - I meet with them AND the homeowner/client - we talk about function, design, budget, time, and so on. we look at samples and pictures - I present a design proposal and a bid to everyone - if i get the project then i endeavor to keep the designer AND the client informed all the way through: any changes/updates go through both - the job is over only when the designer AND the client are happy - payment is NOT collected from the designer (or architect) but from the bank or title company or GC or whatever. Here is how i see it and this is just me: I am a resource for the interior designer. I allow them a greater scope and more possibilities (a way to wow the client) and in return they connect me with work. I am not a soruce of income for them, they get paid by the client just like me. We are equal players. I give 30% at the gallery where my furniture and sculpture are sold but I have never given money to an interior designer and none of them have ever asked me. If they want more money for dealing with ironwork they will get it form the client and that is up to them. I have never collected money from an interior designer. I want the homeowner/client to see my contract and my price because it is part of my reputation and I am not willing to put that in someone else's hands. I allow the interior designer/archetect and the client to have a limited amount of input about the design but ultimately it stays with me because that is also part of my reputation that I am not willing to put in someone else's hands. I always make sure that the homeowner/client has a stack of my cards when i leave and they may come to me directly for additional ironwork without involving the interior designer. If a designer wanted a cut of everything i did for that client forever after it would be complicated for me and expensive for the client. same for architects and genral contractors; would you want to pay 30% more to your interior designer if you invite the painter back to do additional painting a year later? I sure wouldn't. I work with designers, contractors, architects, genral supervisors, other contrators and craftsman, and so on but I work FOR the end user and myself.

Iain, I started my Blacksmith shop several years ago in my garage with a very basic setup; coal forge, anvil, an old miller thunderbolt, porta-band, and a few hand tools. It was difficult in the begining - worked my head off for pennies (my savings saved me !!!!!! during that time). It was over a year before I started really getting noticed and even longer before I started making decent money but looking back it was all worth it. I now am able to be selective when it comes to projects/clients and bring in 50-70 an hour for the shop. I deciced to remain poor personally in order to invest in the buisness. Recently I purchased a 100# Little Giant (used to be a seemingly impossible dream to have one) and only then did I really feel like it was all going to work. When people ask me what I do for a living I beam with pride. I am making it, hell yes, and you can to! What a great bunch of advice and experience the members of this site gave. It help me to hear all that even now. All the best! Work hard, be honest, be thrifty, don't borrow money (just my opinion), and stay the course!

For a few hundred or less you could buy a new 1 or 1 1/2 motor. I guess you have to ask yourself if the old motor is worth salvaging. If it is best to do a rebuild while you have it apart - not just a cleaning. I am facing a similar situation and have chosen to get a new motor. best of luck with you 25. That is a great 'little' machine.