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Salt for flux, Washing soda for degasser (sodium carbonate)

Mark those might be the eyes and nose he made in my class thirty odd years ago. He won best art piece of the week with it here at Peters Valley back then.

I don't think so. The one ton rating of the arbor press is the Maximum you can expect it to produce when your all the way out on the handle and applying full force, any less effort and you'll be getting less force. Also I think you'd do better with a striking force than a pressing one when you're working with limited power. As I'm sure you know thought,  a pressing force will be much more desirable for you're application. 

Frank,

      Your correct again! The Rearden metal as I recall was a steel alloyed with copper (hence the green hue) it was supposed to be hard, durable and corrosion resisitant. I always have wondered if Ayn Rand had known anything about Corten and had just embellished on it's metallurgical properties..  

Diechem is made in many colors now also, Green, red, black, yellow and more besides the original blue. The colors can be mixed like paint so custom colors can be made in your own shop. It's reasonably durable but if used for exterior work should have some form of exterior clear coat added.

If your talking about the anvil, it's an Arm and Hammer made in Columbus Ohio.

Sam and Tim,

    Thanks for your support.

I'll quote Sam here with my sentiments 

Good Bye I will not entertain you any more . Be well and I wish you well in your search for Knowledge with in the Blacksmith community .

 

Sam

On the Clay Spencer ( original design ) he used a piece of bicycle chain welded to the column and an old sprocket as a gear. The gear is connected to a hand crank. Simple solution to a backyard rack and pinion from a former NASA engineer.

I don't understand what is so difficult about doing a little research in this world of GOOGLE.

From the Lincoln website:

Top Features

• Provides a premium austenitic chromium manganese deposit
• Resists severe impact or gouging even in a single layer over carbon steel
• Used to join Hadfield manganese steel to itself or to carbon steel
• Excellent for build-up on carbon steel prior to chromium carbide hardfacing deposit with an electrode such as Wearshield® 60
• Unlimited layers

Typical Applications

• Crusher hammers
• Rebuilding and joining of austenitic
• Manganese plates and parts
• Earth moving equipment

Welding Positions

All, except vertical down

Enuff said 

I'd Try a larger blower with a gate so you can control the volume of air. If you can't afford ITC-100,try getting some kiln wash from a local potter if there is one near you.

Hey Larry,

    What is that extra flair behind the joint boss for that you see on almost all new farrier tongs. It seems like the answer would be for strength,but with the reduction in cross section just in front of it and behind the boss,I don't see an advantage. Is there any or is it just style or a fad ?

It looks like a PW to me with the entire plate missing. Unless you want a large chunk of wrought iron at a dollar a pound (cheap for real WI ) I'd let it pass. The hammer tracks around the hardy hole testify to it's not having a plate or at the least that what face there may be is very soft.

BEWARE: of anvil fever!!!!!!!!!

Great forge! Love the box tube manifold. What size jet or orifice are you using for the propane?

I agree with Ted and macruce.............

Very common way of forging in parts of Asia and Africa. One reason I can think of for it in Africa is that in certain areas wood may to valuable to use as an anvil stump. Also I believe Africans may value their knees more than Indians and some Asians who squat down to forge. :)  

How about instead of thinking about going somewhere and not being able to, you sit down research somemore online about blacksmithing? You could spend the rest of your life learning and never learn it all :)

I am an A&P and all though it's been years since I've worked as one (full time smith for years) I'll tell you that the only heat treat ever done to 4130 or 4140 for aircraft was normalizing after welding. Airframes made of these materials were always o/a welded. When the repair or fabrication was completed the entire weld area was brought to a visible dull red heat in normal ambient light with the torch. The torch was then withdrawn from the material slowly until color was no longer visible and allowed to cool to room temp.

The heat treat you describe is no heat treat at all and will probably have little or no effect on the material. I personally would wonder if your handle bar was made from 4130 in the first place. Or if your original measurements and post measurements for comparison were accurate. And yes as Rich suggests too thin a wall thickness could be a problem. You can't expect structural strength from the equivalent of tissue paper.   

It seems to me that what you're calling the flush side may be mushroomed a bit so it won't drive thru. Knock it back and file or grind a chamfer on it and try driving it again.

I don't see the point in taking it apart anyway. If the vise works stiffly at the hinge soak it with penetrating oil  and if that doesn't work heat it up with torch/forge and work it back and forth while hot. No real need to ever take it apart !

Yes most of the champions had the pulley between the webs on the frame have seen a couple that had extended shafts with makeshift clutches on the back. 

That shaft is sticking out the back an awfully lot. Has it been replaced and where is the drive pulley ?

Tim ,

        I beg to differ, preheating and post heating are still required when brazing large castings. On smaller repairs it isn't considered necessary because it is naturally an inherent part of the process.  

It's a drop forging. That seam /parting line is where the dies came together in the drop hammer and the small lines running perpendicular to it and the shank of the tool are tell tale signs of the shearing action from removing the flash in the stripping die.

http://www.beltcorp.com/products.html?_vsrefdom=ppcgoogle&gclid=CPTw3L3znLYCFckx4AodinwApg Try starting here for endless belts,otherwise just Google endless belts.

 Check this link out............. http://www.daycreek.com/dc/html/dc_cordwood_masonry.htm 

The last link has some nice shapers and planers they manufacture. Didn't know anyone still made planers.