doc

A way to help avoid the cracking Woody has mentioned is to preheat to 500*F before welding.

    I would take it to a machine shop, have the box bored out and the male thread turned off the screw. Then wrap the screw with a doubled over piece of stock large enough to to create a diameter equal to the ID of the box. Snip the wrap where it is doubled over and unscrew one spiral from the other. Then braze one in the box and the other over the the tenon to recreate the mail thread.

    Be warned the machining may well cost more than the vise is really worth!

As I said your on the right track. Keep your 12" pipe to the back of your casing it'll work better. 

YES your on the correct track

   I might use 30" instead of 2'. Your 8" arch might be a little too small but it could be enlarged with a torch until you got it right.

   Incredible what they managed to do so many years ago. Forging, Machining, Casting and all that fun.

 

  Good godfrey man ,don't talk about it as if it were men from ancient times! That film was made only 15 years before I was born! Those engines were built at what could now be called the height of mechanical engineering. The same period as the British Spitfire, the American P51 Mustang with the Marlin and Allison engines respectively.

  It was a time of great skilled craftsmanship both in engineering design and skilled workman who still new how to use their hands.Not a time of cave men with limited resources or experience.

RANT over you just made me feel old all of a sudden, somthing I don't really notice most of the time :unsure:

Try looking for ceramic supply (pottery supply) or A P Green co. or perhaps Rutland furnace cement.

could have been made by H.B. Smith. Look at this link

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=766&tab=7

WOW amazing deal NG. If you find another deal like that be sure to let me know :D

 Dave ,

When you buy bronze you are often offered it in "hard, half hard or annealed". If your concern is the strength for say towel bars I would buy either the hard or half hard dependent upon length. That is if you only plan on forging the ends and leaving the rest as is. you could also finish forging cold to work harden and increase it's resistance to bending.

As for copper I'm not familiar with buying it in different tempers but suppose it may be offered that way. The issue with simply going larger on either material is that IE: would 1/2" round annealed be better than 3/8" round hard.

Hope this strange explanation helps.

Doc

Thought some of you might find this interesting.........http://www.artandskills.blogspot.be/#!

If you don't have three phase power or the three motor for the hammer. You could look for a 5HP compressor motor in single phase. If you do have a three phase motor with the hammer a phase converter or rotophase off ebay like Stuart has suggested will probably be your best bet.

You're welcome Stuart. I was happy to have had the chance to finally have met you.

Doc

Good to see you back ONR !!!!

Sure a rotor will work. It might even work better than some brake drums as many newer drums are only cast iron on the perimeter with rest being stamped steel.

Try to get as deep a rotor as possible or gain more depth by building up the top with fire brick. 

Here is a link to repairing a vise box similar to Mr. Martin's repair with a few differences. It never hurts to know more than one way to skin a cat!

http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/original-series/bp0060-rebuilding-a-vise-r288

Very nice job!

Thomas your correct. The inertia factor would probably be calculated in with energy coefficient and the speed of ram travel.

I think your formula is wrong:

The length of your lever is 20" not 3.14 of a 20" radius.

I don't know the proper calculation but logic would dictate that it should be more like ( pounds of force ) / (Pi x dia of screw x TPI ) or something like that and of course the subtraction of some sort of energy coefficient plus you'd have to consider the speed of ram travel also.

I'm not trying to be a PITA but just pointing out that your formula seems WAY to simple. 

If you choose to use the rubber, my advice would be to epoxy your anchors in or use springs on top of the hammer base and under the anchor nuts.

I once used rubber under my hammer and nutted down directly against the hammer base. The compression and expansion of the rubber under the hammer while running kept jacking the anchors out or loose from the concrete! 

That anvil not only looks crooked it is crooked  :mellow:  I have two colonials and they are forged crooked also. It's my belief that they were forged this way so they would stay on the stump when working with strikers. Since these anvils have little or no feet to help tie them down the angled face when being struck from the "off side" by strikers heavy blows tends to drive the base of the anvil down into the stump rather than askew and of onto the floor.

Try this link it has some pics. Apparently they no longer have the videos. Sadly the pics don't give as much detail as the vids did.

http://www.appaltree.net/rusty/GALLERY.htm

Check the videos on the Rusty hammer site. The one your thinking of is in OZ.

How about passing the anvil through the base plate 6" and pouring your foundation with a hole to except the anvil protruding below the plate?

there are no bolts on wooden wagon wheels. the rim holds it all together

Beg to differ........many tires were held on with bolts on light buggies in the later part of the 19th century. Check out M.T.Richardson for some references.