doc

There is no "best" tool in general That is why there are so many different tools to choose from ! The best tool is the one that gets the job done correctly and depending on the smith and his personal approach to solving the problem may not be the tool that someone else would use.

Je-wizz Phil, 

          Now you gave it all away!!! How are we supposed to compete if you give everyone our trade secrets ? And besides you've posted it in the wrong thread it should have been divulged in the thread about trade secrets that was up earlier this week.

You're really starting to disappoint me. :( 

Doc 

Try here..........http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/

Mac,

   Don't be reluctant this site is here exactly for the reason that, those who don't know can know by reading and paying attention!

Good luck in learning what you need too here. 

Wrap a band of strip around a mandrel the size of punches to be held and weld it to your bar stock striker. 

If you don't have the tools to weld it then it can be forge brazed to the shank. 

I tend to agree with bigfoot on the serviceability of one style over the other, but for some illustrations which could show you some construction techniques I'd try Early American Ironwork by Sonn.   

Need more info: Was it the valve (gas leaking by) that failed? Or was it the electrical component, the solenoid itself that failed?

This is just my .02 ,but anyone inexperienced at tong making should start with as large a stock size as practical,meaning 5/8" - 3/4" square. The reason being that the beginner will find that the tendency to forge the juncture between the jaw and pivot boss too thin will be their biggest problem. So starting with larger stock helps eliminate this issue. 

If there are any and they told you then they wouldn't be would they ? :) 

Alicia,

  How wide are the jaws on your vise? It definitely looks pre 1800 with the screw box of that shape and the tenon mount. It is interesting that there is no champhering on the legs above the hinge point. It also appears to be in very good condition for its age.

Hollis, an acid etch might work. I think I would start out with something mild like white vinegar or muriatic if I were to try it.

I've renewed  them by annealing/normalizing (if you can get the handle off) and then draw filing with a double cut file. You have to keep the file aligned so the angle of their cut across the file is parallel with the length or axis of the steel. This will give you the fine texture you want.

  Next is re-hardening, you can wrap in stainless HT foil or cover with clay so you don't ruin the new sharpening texture and quench. Then temper as hard as you dare, so it will stay sharp for another generation or two. :)    

Check out this link for some solutions;   http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/half-nut-repair-226759/

and here is another        http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/43645-Making-Acetal-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way

Another way to do it is to get one of the many castable resins made today and cast your nut. Cover the screw with oil, paraffin or some other release agent and us a paper tube around the screw as a mold. I've seen half-nuts for lathe lead screws done this way. Or use some sheet metal as a mold and cast it from babbitt.

If it is real lump charcoal and not briquets it will work fine. What does the guy behind the counter know about forge fuel?

The method shown is the one used by Schwarzkopf in Plain and Ornamental forging. All be it he used a hot set and not a cut off wheel.

http://books.google.com/books?id=0V01AAAAMAAJ&pg=PA5&dq=Essentials+of+sheet+metal+work+and+pattern+drafting&hl=en&sa=X&ei=wV7FUJjBBISy0AGDwICgCg&ved=0CDAQ6AEwAA

Copy this link and paste in browser. About page 97 will answer your question

Try Cleveland Punch and Die.

Brazing, just use a 2X reducing flame and a small tip.

Silver solder is probably the way to go with the tools you have available to you. You don't need pure silver. You can get industrial use silver solders from your welding supply. The most common one is usually a Harris product. Don't forget to pick up the correct flux while buying the solder. 

Macbruce, Sorry to say it's probably never going to work!!! You got the wrong switch!!! It's marked "up and down" you want forward and back. :huh:

The jackhammer suggestion sounds good to me. Years ago I saw one set up as hammer in a marble quarry in Vermont sharpening small tooling. Worked quite well for the application. 

Did you try contacting this phone # 1 508 481-5700 ? This the manufacturer in Marlboro MA. 

GULF COAST BLACKSMITHS ASSOCIATION

I agree with Macbruce and I also believe your correct in thinking you need more mass on your tup.