Hey gang,
I am Looking for a supplier for hexagonal tubing in Stainless steel and Brass/Bronze. Looking for 1", 1.5", 2", 3" flat to flat OD with a wall thickness of 1/8" to 1/4" I onley need about 2 ft of each to start.
Thanks Drogo
I have been trying for a while to make some Fire steels. I just can't get them to work:( I've tried everything from iron to high carbon steel, difrent heat treats and diffrent pieces of flint. How do you make one? I'm going nuts here:o
thanks in advance
That my friend is an ASO. I have one and I Use it for demos(its about 45lbs) Ive dented it and chiped it. But it still works. It all depends on the price. If you are just getting started it is not a bad anvil to mess arround with. My USA was my first anvil and now my 9yo daughter is using it.
So if you can get it for arround $1.00 a pound GO FOR IT
Mine is Rabenwald Metalsmything: Rabenwald is German for Raven's Wood. Which refers to the Ravens that would caw back and forth behind my old shop. Metalsmything: because we will work in anything that wont kill us, Smything is an old way of spelling smithing, and as a friend told me a while back...Metals-my-thing"
I use the orange HBT 4 1/2" grinders every day and have one of their 7" auto buffers with a cup brush(thanks to a demo by Bill Epps). I wouldent trade any of them. A couple of years ago I blewup a DeWalt grinder 2 days after the warrentee expired. The HF ones are going strong and are a LOT less expensive. Just like everywhere else, some of their stuff is bad...some good.
How about car and truck axels and sway bars for small hammers? Is the steel of a high enough carbon? I've read that you just harden it and dont back temper it but im not convinced.
Drogo
why use a forge burner at all. if you are just trying to back temper(heat treat) why not use a burner for a gas grill. they cost less than making a burner and give off a large eaven heat.
just my .02
As for a Switch system try using a reed switch (security switch for windows) the kind that uses a magnet to activate. Put the magnet on the handel to the blower and the switch on the blower housing. when you want it "on", leave the handel in the right position and the electric fan stays on. You could also put the magnet on a swivel so the electric fan isn't going on and off with every turn of the blower handel.
hope this is clear
about the hight of the anvil (or a little higher) to start with and half of it culvert grate for cooling and holding tongs. couple of hammer rings and a coffee cup holder. Maby a removable orginizer for small cut lenghts of stock.
Drogo
I thing a 4' x 8' would be good.....heavy enough to park a car on (not that you could) and about belt buckle high so you can bend over it and so its not too short. A shelf underneath for tools and make a section with culvert grating(my supplier sell it) for a cooling rack. some hammer rings on the side would be good too for hammers but not too many(remember it is belt buckle high;) )
If it was a platen table I would say a littel higher for mechanical atvantage while bending stock.
Drogo