clinton

That works out to $3.93/ lb, the only nice thing I can see is that it says "USA"
I think Thomas got it right "Boat Anchor"

If I was in the market for a welder I would look for a used Lincoln for the stick welder, the old AC-DC machines can not be beat.
For a mig welder you can not find a better more user-friendly machine than what miller makes, the 250 or 251 machines have the best "sweet spot" that I have found. They weld great at just about every setting on the dial.
Now if I was looking for a small 110 v mig I would look for an older Lincoln SP 100, 125, 135. The older ones work great and are lighter than the Millers, (way lighter) If I was going with a new machine I would go with the Miller. I would stay away from the Hobart, every one that I have used had problems (usually the dial that controls the wire speed)

I would say that it is a top line blower and if you can get one for $100 it is probably a good deal. You want to be sure it turns easy and has good coast- it should do at least 2 or 3 revolutions after you stop turning.
Blowers seem to be hard to find here now, the ones that come up are pretty pricey $250 and up.
I have an over-limit of little electric blowers that I find a yard sales for just a couple of bucks. That is what I use now, I have pulled a few out of dumpsters- flip the switch and let it do the work

Buying a blower I like to be in the $50 range. Selling one is a different story. I have two of the Buffalo 200 blowers one that works and one that needs work. They do put out a good amount of air. Also they are made right and left, I have one each way

I just scored about 100 pairs of surgeons gloves at an estate sale. They came in "handy" when I had to snake out the drain from my kitchen sink. These gloves are tough as nails.

Makes my back hurt just thinking about it

This ASO @ about $3.50/ lb It says U.S.A. it must be a good one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blacksmiths-Anvil-55-Pound-Antique-USA-/130693131774?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6deaedfe

That's a shame, just a little too far off route.
Funny story about trying to pick up that 410 lb Trenton. The guy that I got it from was drinking in the local watering hole and somehow got into a bet with a guy that said he could pick up that anvil. They both gave their wager to the bartender, then went down to the shop for the attempt at lifting. He could not get it off the stump it was sitting on.
I am willing to take bets on lifting the anvil

Too far out of thier way? A couple of cases of Molson should take care of that.
It should be marked on the front foot, there will be a serial number and the weight stamped in pounds

Frank- it says "Henry Wright England 106"

I found this vise at the CBA spring conference in the tailgating area. I was there to sell stuff but this was too good to pass up

You will want to get through the slate and into the concrete. I would try using a masonry drill bit with a normal drill motor to get through the slate, then use a roto-hammer to drill the concrete. The lead anchors with lag screws hold well.
You could have a testing lab come out and locate any post-tension cables or re bar before drilling

I went ahead and made a new bracket and spring for this vise. The bracket is forged-fabricated, I torched it out of a piece of 1/2 inch plate then forged the box area and welded it with a mig welder. Forged the collar that goes around the leg and wedges. I listed it on craigslist locally, if it does not sell in a week I will put it on ebay and see what happens there

Acetylene should be open only 1/4 to 1/2 turn, oxygen is a double seating valve and it should be opened all the way. You could have a bad valve on your torch body, or a bad seat on your tip. Try removing the tip and inspect the seat (the area that makes contact where it meets the torch body) it should be smooth with no gouges. Also try cleaning the tip with a tip cleaner

ebay for small pieces you can not beat this guys price man-of-rust is the user name

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Lbs-Old-WROUGHT-IRON-1-2-3-4-Rounds-Blacksmith-Anvil-Forge-ee-/221017944853?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3375b23315

I found a pair of Samuel Yellin andirons at an antique shop near me. I wish I could have bought them, they sat there for about a year until the owner traded to another shop keeper for other items.

Oxy- Acetylene welding does have its place and like John said it teaches you the same technique as tig welding. The teacher at our community college has the students build a box using 1 inch by 4 inch strips of 16 gauge metal. You tack the strips together, then fit up a box so you have 6 sides to practise on. You can use the different sides for the positions in welding, (flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead). When you get good at all those welds you can add tubing to each side

There seems to be something wrong with the link BM454
Is that the one where the guy clamped it in the vise to remove the valve?

I made 20 crucifixion spikes for a guy once.

Ya I mix the coke that Mccellan sells with coal about 50-50 give or take I find that it burns cleaner and will stay lit for a few minutes with no air. If I am going to be away from the forge for more than just a few minutes I will put a chunk of wood in the fire that will keep it going for a good 15- 20 minutes. I learned that from Brian Brazeal

Ya I think you may be on to something ianinsa- the kid looks like he had too much punch

Ummm- what comes next?
Oh ya- "To you"

I am not sure if I would try using it myself, sell it to a collector and use the money to buy modern equipment.
I do remember the carbide being sold in small cans when I was much younger it was sold at the mercantile store in the town where I grew up.

What is this about the "Best flux"
Great job Thomas and good point about having a plan when you go there. You must be exhausted after the two days forging and the drive, I would have to take a day or two of rest for sure.
And thanks To Brian for sharing this, just got back from the CBA spring conference and I talked to several people that sure do miss having you around.
And thanks Lyle for the outstanding photos

I will put a second on what jm said- be sure it is empty and Larry's band saw advise is how I would proceed. Just because a gas is not flammable does not mean that it is not dangerous. O2 supports combustion, and if it comes in contact with oil, grease, dirt under pressure it will blow up on you by itself. There was a post about a guy who killed himself trying to remove the valve on one of those cylinders. It was not a pretty sight.

In the first response that Jimmy posted he did ask you what kind of steel you are welding on. Are you sure that is mild steel? Also there was a suggestion by HW to do a "T joint fillet" or "Lap joint" and do a break test on that.