clinton

According to Anvils in America Paragon anvils were made by Soderfors. It is a Swedish anvil made of one piece of cast steel. The 192 may be the weight of the anvil in pounds, the 1962 is a mystery with the info I have here. Mr Postman reports that they were imported up until WW II so that could not be the date of manufacture.

Andrew- The hammer probably is very similar to you 100 pound. I was talking to Peacock about the hammer and he told me that they used some of the same parts on different size hammers. It looks like the cushions are the same size. I am looking at options for the new cushions, Peacock mentioned casing them out of polyurethane. The rod that you mentioned may work also, a six inch dia rod x 12 inches long is around $150. There are the steel parts of the cushion that would need to be machined in.
The bearings were a nice surprise, the one thing on the hammer that is in good shape. I think someone must have replaced them, but I really don't know.

HW- sounds good, there are good diagrams on how to grind your tool bits in that Southbend book. I have basically no machining experience and I able to run the shaper. I surfaced a block, then I made a new key for the bottom die on a powerhammer. I proceeded slowly as well, getting the machine set and rolling it around by hand before turning it on.
Your shaper make mine look like a toy, that is a nice machine
Hendey_Shaper_Catalog.pdf

Thank you Andrew for the link on rubber cushions
For more info on shapers check the Practical Machinist website tons of info on shapers.
I am still trying to find the link to the South Bend booklet, I do have it in a pdf that I can email. PM me as I can not post it here the file is too large

Fe- I am starting to move forward but this will take some time.
I did play with the shaper some, I made a new die key for my Comonsense hammer. I just used mild steel it came out nice.

Hw there is a book by south bend on how to run a shaper. It is a free download i can send you a link if you want

I moved the hammer into my shop last weekend and partially assembled it. I made a list of repairs to make that includes;
Repair slip sleeve stem (Bent and has been welded)
Repair slip sleeve (has been brazed together)
Repair tension arm assembly (another braze weld)
Make new tension links (they have been fabricated with round stock and welded together, the should be forged from one piece)
Repair head assembly (big chunk of guide missing)
Repair head guide plate (big chunk missing)
Make new rubber cushions (they are in bad shape)
The bearings look new so that is one thing that will not need fixing

A short vedio of the shaper in action. It runs smooth I do not have it bolted down yet in this video.
https://plus.google....175009802804642

Lets see if I did this right

We use the Dewalt saws for metal stud framing and they last a long time. We sometimes cut heavier material on them. Our guys are hard on equipment and the Dewalt holds up well.
I have a makita here in my shop, I found myself in the same situation a few years back. I was doing a side job nights and weekends and my old Black & Decker went out. The Makita is less money and fine for what I am doing

Good job on the ID Timothy, I am impressed!
Great piece for the museum. I had to look at the picture in AIA, funny it was an ad from a Montgomery Wards catalog.

You got a lot done in those 2- 26 hour days

Peter Ross did a great demo at Octoberfest. You can learn alot from him

Cross Pein- Roger does sell the ash dump/ air inlet set up. It is just an iron T fitting that you can fabricate yourself. It bolts on to the bottom of the fire pot. The clinker breaker does not spin all the way around, you weld a handle onto it and rock it back and forth to break clinker, then use a fire tool to drag it out.

Roger Lorance (309)475-9012
His fire pots are made of very thick cast iron. Much heavier than what most other fire pots that I have seen.
Roger is a great guy to deal with, give him a call.

Trenton- $3.00 / lb is a fair price here in CA
it wil be marked in pounds on the front foot

It is a tailgate shear, a guy with a mill could make one easy

It just has some slots to hold bar stock 1/4'', 5/16'',& 3/8''
I would also look at the extend-able arm to support a long piece that Brian uses

I need to do some housekeeping and get some stuff out of the shop so I can get the shaper in place.
I will check the stroke next time I get in the shop, I think it is 10 inch

They are good to sit your beer on as it will not get spilled there

"Professional closed course do not attempt" my favorite disclaimer should be included. Maybe this will be pirates next impossible mission

I bet he rode the short bus also

Nice score and amazing that 3 of the 4 leg vises still have mounting brackets. I usually find 3 out of 4 missing the parts

Looks like he should wear a bump cap

Thanks guys, and yes it is saweet FE, I tried to call you when I was in route so you could talk me out of buying it and going for the mill instead. They were a little high on the price for the mill so the shaper was my only option anyways. There was nothing else there that I could find that went to the shaper, tooling is just a tool holder and bit. I plan on ordering a clamping kit from Grizzly.
One odd thing about this machine is the lack off a name plate, the only marking I can find reads "A. E. 782" I did run it a little before I took it apart and it seems to function properly, the table does traverse as it should and it ran smooth.

Found this on craigslist the price was right and it was close enough for me to go pick up. It is in great condition very little use, the guy used this shaper and a small mill to build scale trains. Now I just need some hold down clamps and I will be up and running.
I removed the motor and stand for loading

10,000 lbs GVW?