Glenn

As this is a blacksmithing forum, not a political forum, I will take a lack of additional posts to lock down the thread.

IForgeIron is visited by over 50 world wide countries each month. We need to stay on the topic of blacksmithing, even though these are sensative issues.

As this is a blacksmithing forum, not a political forum, I will take a lack of additional posts as an opportunity to lock down the thread.

Whitesmith and I were at a demo with Paw Paw, Jock, and others and were trading stories during a lull in the action. BANG ! Sounded like a 12 ga going off at real close range.

Jim's demo forge had backfired. No damage to the bellows, but it was definately a check for who had a heart condition. Even though this was an outdoor demo it took several minutes to regain our hearing. We guessed that there was a shift in the wind that cause the gasses to ignite.

I no longer use plastic dryer vent from the fan to the forge after having 3 of them catch fire during a backfire, melting the plastic and setting it on fire. As the smoke ignites and burns, it can be a traveling fire as the smoke burns in the air line, a soft whoomp, or an ear splitting bang.

Do not let anyone tell your that blacksmithing can not be exciting !!

There are a lot of double disc rotors being replaced in this area. Let's do something a bit different this month and make something useful using this item.

The discs I have seen have different patterns of bolt holes, 4, 5, 8 so you get your choice. The webbing between the discs seems to beg to be used in some way. Use your imagination.

Bob Harasim Passes Away

I'm new to this board although Bob has tried to get me to register for awhile.
I'm sorry it took this to get me to register.
I know he has some friends on this board so thought this should be posted.
I have known Bob since 1968 when we joined Cub Scouts together and his mother was our Den Mother.
I regret to inform You that Bob died Saturday night.
I considered him among my best friends and I will miss him immensly.

Dave. Maverick4440

There is an "archives" button at the bottom of the page. Click on it to get to into the past conversations or threads.

Also at the bottom of the page left, as an option for how many posts you want to show, what order and etc. Many times the posts fall outside your request time frame and seem to disappear. Adjust your time frame and they will appear once more. This keeps your viewing screen from being cluttered.

I am glad you find the site useful. I Forge Iron tries to keep something new on the site each time you log in. It is the contributors that made the site what it is today. Our thanks and gratitude for the knowledge posted on the site goes to them.

IForgeIron is a blacksmithing site with a world wide audiance. We have over 50 different world wide countries visit the IforgeIron site each month. We try to stay close to the topic of blacksmithing and metal working so everyone is pulling together for a common goal - knowledge in the craft.

Let us keep the discussions related to blacksmithing, sharing the knowledge of the craft and assisting each other. That way we can build friendships and keep IForgeIron a comfortable place for all to visit.

A client wanted 8 strap hinges 4" wide x 36" long (for a door) fully textured and liked the look a ball pein made on the metal. The entire surface was distressed with out a single area of the original finish left untouched. Never again.

If you want a pitted look, put the center point into an air chisel and go at the surface of the flatbar. It gives a little different type of texture, and can be adjusted from light to deep indentations, and from here-n-there to full coverage. The air tool does a lot of work in short order. Do a test piece first to see the effect.

Combine several of the techniques suggested to arrive at an unique texture and product.

I just got a phonoe call from Hotforge's son that Ed (hotforge) is in the hospital with a kidney infection and also an infection in one of his feet. Ed requested to be placed on the prayer list. I ask the son to keep us informed as to his (Ed's) condition and progress.

The family would appreciate prayers for him also.

What tools do I need to get started in blacksmithing?

The question is intended for the newbie plus level of blacksmithing, and should be considered "real tools" to replace the starter set of make do items he wants to replace.

Anvil - something in the 100-200 pound range
Hammer - how many, what style, straight pein, cross pein, slash or diagonal pein, ball pein ?
Forge - depends on the fuel available in his location
Tongs - how many and what configuration?

And what other tools should be put on the list?

That hammer is HUGE, I would love to have one that big. I would make anvils!

Set up a box, bucket, drum or whatever in the shade so that the incoming illumination is 90* to the entrance to the opening on the box etc. The box etc should be deep enough as to create a shadow and the inside should be dark if possible.

Take a piece of metal and bring it up to a temperature you can see first color, a low red. This will be outside in your forge conditions. Quickly step to the box etc and put the same metal into the shadows and look at the "same heat color" but under a different light condition. Watch it slowly cool and watch the color fade till you can no longer see the color in the metal. Quickly step back to the forge and look at the same metal again.

The difference is only light conditions, forge location or inside the box location. It is at the same heat temperature, but you see the color different according to the light available.

In the real world this means you need to standardize your viewing conditions. If at the forge, then fine, that is the standard. If inside the box, that is fine also, as that is your standard. Once you have a standard you can call the color red, "the color red", and know it is YOUR color red.

If you standardize on a day with no clouds in the sky and the sun beaming down, you will have to make certain adjustments for dreary overcast winter weather.

Post the event in the Calendar section. It lets the rest of us know what and where things are happening.

BP0188 How to find things BP0184 Look-see This is a good place to start in your search for materials and tools. Explaination of colors: I divide red, orange, and yellow (the colors of heated metal) into 3 groups each. Start with black then low red, medium red and high red, low orange, medium orange, and high orange, low yellow, medium yellow, and high yellow, then white heat. This is followed by sparks. The lower temperatures have more seperation in heat colors than the seperation in heat colors at high temperatures. The difference is suttle, and everyone sees color differently. The same colors are different temperatures in bright sun then in shade. You need to standardize to your conditions. The 12 color divisions (black to sparks) are enough for discussion purposes, and are repeatable under YOUR conditions. This is the time you need to find a steel yard and BUY some new stock. It will move a certain way under the hammer each (every) time. Feel the hammer when it hits the metal at different temperatures. If you see the color of the mild steel as red stop and take another heat, get it back up to working temperature. Put the metal into the fire and get it hot enough to throw sparks, just like a 4th of July (USA) sparkler. This is usually when the metal is at high yellow or white in color. You have now sucessfully burned the metal, don't do it again as that is TOO HOT. Cut the burnt end off the stock. Put the stock back into the fire and heat to (for mild steel) high orange or yellow and hit it with a hammer. Feel how it moves upon impact. When the metal gets to low orange in color by loosing heat, it will stiffen a bit. Warm it back up and do it again. Cut the end of the stock to where there is new material. Put it in the fire and bring it only up to showing low red in color. Hit it with the hammer and feel how it moves (or dowsn't want to move). Back to the fire and then repeat at orange. Back to the fire and then repeat at yellow. Feel the hammer and watch the metal. You are building YOUR heat standard for YOUR forge under YOUR smithy conditions. I will echo Rich Hale and congradulate you on asking question and seeking assistance. Keep us informed as to your progress. It is a joy to watch some one grow from a beginner to an acomplished blacksmith. IForgeIron is a great group of talented blacksmiths and metal smiths. Who knows what other talents are available in the group, but it is always amazing as to the width and depth of knowledge the group posesses outside the interest in metal.

Sikaflex-11 FC
Description
Sikaflex-11 FC is a one-component, gun-grade, adhesive and sealing compound of permanent elasticity. This dual-purpose material is based on a special moisture-cured polyurethane with an accelerated curing time.

Advantages
* Excellent adhesion on all cement-based materials, brick, ceramics, glass, metals, wood, epoxy, polyester, acrylic resin, and plastics.
* Fast cure rate.
* Good weathering and water resistance.
* Non-corrosive.
* Can be painted over with water, oil, and rubber-based paints. (Preliminary tests recommended).
* High durability.

Coverage
10.3 fl. oz. cartridge seals 12.4 lineal ft. of 1/2 x 1/4 in. joint.

Sikaflex-11 FC Technical Information Sheet in pdf format

Sikaflex11fc Material Safety Data Sheet in pdf format

I have converted your images and reposted them into your comments for you.

They were saved as bmp and should have been jpg format. For the images to be viewable, use 640x480 in size and in jpg format.

BP0300 Getting started in Blacksmithing has all types of information including building forges. (BP0300 was chosen as it is an easy number to remember).

Rick, Welcome to the site, great shop!

Pokers are a good project as many people want one. Helps you practice your forge (fagot) welding.

BP0071 Poker 01 - Beacher Alan (Possum)
BP0084 Poker 02 - Cheryl McDowell, aka Baby Anvil

The dinner bell will help you with scrolls.
BP0085 Heart Bell - Cheryl McDowell, aka Baby Anvil

The Blueprints are a great resource that cover a wide range of blacksmithing skills.
BP0166 Hammer Stand, BP0291 Square Helper and BP0237 Toys may be a place to use your welding skills to help with your blacksmithing.

BP0295 Nail in Hook is just a new twist on the hooks you already make.

Go to the opening page of IForgeIron.com and click on the yellow Blueprints button on the left side of the page to find these and some 300+ more Blueprints.

Frogvalley,
If you get to the place and into the basement, get lots of picutres please.

My condolenses to the family and friends.

Some of you may know that I have been in the developing stages of having Colonial pattern anvils made. Two anvils that were cast last week for me were stolen over the weekend from the foundry in Struthers, Ohio. They were just broken out of the mold and still had the risers stuck to the side. The finish weight of the anvils will be around 100 pounds. Pictures attached are from one of the first run anvils that was scrapped out by us. The face is a full 5" wide, @ 9-1/2" long, the horn is @ 4-1/2" long and has since been rounded more. The Hardy hole is @ 3/4". These are cast in S7. If you see these anvils, please contact me. Jymm Hoffman

Awarded to Uri Hofi

Order of Excellence Award

Senate Authority for Education. Youth and Sport
Beuthstrasse 6-8
10117 Berlin-Mitte
Public Transport
Bus no 142
Contact: Ms Hohne
Room No. 6018
Tel (030) 90-26 57 59
Fax +49 (30) 90 26 3760
Email Address
@SenBjs.Verwalt-Berlin.de
Internet site:
www.scnbjs.berlin.de
Date: July 21,24-08-2006


Mr. Uri Hofi
The Forge

BP0300 Getting Started in Blacksmithing

This Blueprint is being put into the BP0300 slot because it is an easy number to remember. We need to be able to direct those new to the craft or those looking for a quick reference to one location (BP0300) that lists a variety of materials they will find of interest.

There are several IForgeIron Blueprints already listed, as well as other articles that can be found on the site. We need your input to make it a most valuable resource. Please consider writing articles, blueprints, or advice or information the beginner can use in his quest for knowledge in the craft.

What would you suggest that we add to the list?

When you acquire a new tool, there is always a learning curve. And if you have not had some experience with the more basic tools, the more advanced tools do not work nearly as well.

For instance, if you have not experienced hot to move metal with a hand hammer, the sledge hammer has a much longer learning curve. You need to learn how much effort is needed to make the sledge hammer effictive and not just smash metal.

A team of strikers is the next step up, but all should be at the same level of skill in using sledges. Striking is a learning experience as there is both a rythum and the same effort of impact involved. If someone new joins the striking team with no experience the rythum is way off and you bump hammers. The experienced smith does not use a sledge, but simply indicates where he wants the strikers blow to land and with the force the smith dictates.

There always those tools that are found that look wonderful, and as blacksmiths we bring them home (sometimes at great expense) only to find that they are not complete and no not work, are not suitable for the job, or that (dare I say it) we just do not have the experience for operating the tool properly.

Making armour, making knives, making swords (advanced knife making skills) are all specialities of blacksmithing. You could go as far as giving the horse from the game greater power is the blacksmith were to shoe him. It is a timed power as the horse has to be shod every 3-4 weeks to be kept in good condition. Farriers help us out here.

There are so many ways you can make this game interesting