Glenn

John, when starting a fire, poke a hole in the top of the coal for the flame to escape and burn the smoke. Good fire maintenance will produce little smoke (after start-up). A chimney will get the smoke up and over the house as well as dilute it with some air. Use all three.

Thanks Az, I have been wondering about him. Glad you were able to get an update.

I had some of that banding follow me home. You can click to find the link and several suggestions.

Welcome to the site. Between now and spring you have time to catch up on your reading. May I suggest IForgeIron.com from the 400+ Blueprints, to the Forum and Forum archives, to the 2000+ images in the Gallery. There is a thread about Blacksmithing books on the internet and enough links to other places that when combined, the reading should get you into spring or a little after. This way when you build your first fire, you will have some idea as to what you want to do with the hot metal. The IForgeIron Forum Chat is a great place to ask question as it is "live" and the answer can come from anyone or anywhere in the world. Seek out local blacksmith organizations and groups. These folks will jump start your education as nothing else can. They can show you how to use the tools you have to get you smithy up and running. Provide photos and the folks here can explain things to you as well. And there is no reason you have to wait till spring to start. Many blacksmiths forge during cold weather, such as Karl in Sweden, and several blacksmiths in Canada.

What to do about the slack tub freezing? December and the temps are falling, I thought I would bring this topic back to the surface.

Alan, show us your Smokey Joe forge. Most full sized pick up trucks, 3/4 and 1 ton have 13+ inch diameter break drums so they should not be hard to find in your area.

The rivet forge from Buffalo Forge Catalog The 55 Forge on Grandma's potty chair stand The pan forge Old Moose had for sale The pan forge size vs the shop forge. This is to show the side differences between the rivet forge, pan forge and 55 Forge vs a shop forge. As you can see, the shop forge is almost twice the size. The rivet forge was designed to be portable and easy to set up and move and to be used for a specific task. The shop forge was more versatile but less portable. As to weight, the 55 Forge can be easily broken down into 3 sections, the stand (grandma's aluminum potty chair), the forge (9#), and the fire pot/air tube(16#) for a total of maybe 35-40#. The rivet forges are still being used today. I can not say they are the original ones from 1896, but many are older than the blacksmiths using them. The 55 Forge has been used and stored outside (in the rain) all its life (no shelter and exposed to the elements). It has had 3 years of hard use and forge welding temperatures. This summer saw many days of 8 hour fires the most of which were at close to welding heat. The 55 Forge is still in good condition, with surface rust. Rather than spending a lot of time looking for the perfect forge, the perfect blower and the perfect system, look at Blueprint BP0238 Simple Side Blast Forge. This should get you started as quickly as possible. Cost should be close to nothing for parts, and it can easily be converted to a 55 Forge. In fact, you can operate it as both a side blast and a bottom blast if you wish to compare the two styles. Please continue to ask questions. We will continue to try to supply answers. HWooldridge is right on target with the blower information. Hand cranked has the greatest control to get the fire to do exactly what you need.

Alan's link to his similar rivet forge With all due repect, I don't think you have a rivet forge, or a similar looking forge. 1896 Illustrated General Catalogue of the Buffalo Horizontal and Upright Steam Engines,... By Buffalo Forge Company Rivet forge on pae 301 Ron Reil: I have four coal forges, two rivet forges, a full sized Buffalo #660 shop forge, shown here the day I brought it home. Ron Reil: rivet forge I would suggest that you have a shop forge or something similar to a shop forge. Ron Reil: Buffalo #660 shop forge

Why not a "random act of kindness" for this month. Just recognize a need and help someone, with no intention to get anything in return. We will not keep score, but you will know, and the person on the receiving end will know, and that is all that matters. The adjustable anvil contest will come to an end in 30 days, the last day of December. It is time to get your entries built and ready to post.

Why not build a 55 Forge Blueprint BP0133 and see if you like it. Cost depends on your ability to scrounge. As to portability see First Fire Blueprint BP0390. Keykeeper has a portable forge stand that works. The forge and stand could fit in the trunk of a car.

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0326 Courting Candle by Gerald Franklin This is a classic project that is always a good seller and makes a nice gift. They are not hard to make, but the tweaking can be a little time consuming without some aids to help keep things lined up during the forge work. Start with a piece of ¼” rod 4 feet long. This picture shows a piece of 7/8” sucker rod that is used for a mandrel. Notice that I am coiling two pieces of ¼” round at a time. This helps in keeping the coils uniform as they are wound. Thanks to Irnsrgn for turning me on to the double wrap. If you want to have a rat tail curl at the top of your finished candle coil, it is best to taper the ends of the ¼” round stock before you start to coil it. Make 8 or 9 turns around the sucker rod mandrel and then let the two coils cool before you unscrew them from each other. A little WD-40 or some other light lube helps in getting them apart. If you are careful, and you made uniform coils on the mandrel, they should separate with little distortion. It’s hard for me to freehand an even base around the anvil horn since the coil prevents the piece from going very far over the horn. I built little jig from scrap 2 7/8” pipe and ¾” sucker rod. Notice the little notch at the near edge of the jig. Heat the straight part of the ¼” rod, drop the coil over the sucker rod and engage the heated portion in the notch to begin forming the base. Bend the ¼” stock all the way around the pipe and you will have a nicely formed base. You should have enough rod left to form the handle of your choice. This is a close up of the wooden traveler that holds the candle in and moves it up and down. It is made from pieces of 7/8” and 3/16 dowel, each about 1” long. Coat the assembly with floor wax and thread it into the holder and you’re ready to go. I sell mine with a little card that has the legend of the courting candle printed on it. The story card adds a little sales appeal. This shows the finished holder with a simple loop handle. You could add a drip pan for an extra touch. The candle in this picture isn't’t trimmed yet. I buy the 8” “Federal” type candles and trim about 2” off the bottom. The “Federal” candles are not’t tapered and fit the 7/8” coil of the holder nicely. Gentlemen: Two photos attached of Courting Candle Holders made from the IforgeIron Blue Print done by Saltfork Member Gerald Franklin. Advice: Measure the candles (all the candles) before assuming that what you bought will fit in a coil of steel wound around your mandrel. My 7/8" diameter Wal-Mart Federal (straight) Candles are not all the same size. Some were just enough over 7/8" OD that they would not go into the candle holder. Of course, I grabbed one of the "over-size" candles (white) first for a quick check fit in the newly made candle holder; I did not think to check fit all the candles as I should have done. Next I spent a lot of time making a .93" mandrel and "adjusting" candle holders. All is well now though and all the candles fit. Thanks for taking time to do the BP and your encouragement with my iron work. Jim Carothers From the IForgeIron Forum: JWBIRONWORKS Red face It's stuck Helen? I needed to make a batch of courting candles for next weekend and I decided to try BP326 by Gerald Franklin. I usually just make one at a time but this looks to be a better way. I cut my stock and wrapped the 2 pieces around my jig, and yes by golly it does wrap better and easier Geralds way.now comes the problem. My jig is a piece of 3/4 pipe welded to a piece of 2" angle so it can easily be clamped in a vice and won't move around. I can't get the wraps off the pipe with out deforming them. I have tried light oil and wd40 and a small punch. Is there something I'm missing here? OH and yes about now I feel stupid. Any suggestions short of removing my head from my rear(I don't have a big enough bar for that) would be appreciated. Thanks, JWB -------------------- Thomas Dean JW. I'm not sure this will work, but hey, I guess you'll try anything right about now. Grab the bottom of the cork screw and try to unscrew it from there. I think it will open just slightly from there up and slip off. Don't put too much pressure as this will open it too much can it may not spring back where you want it. Not trying to tell ya how to do it mind ya, but maybe you are getting it too hot and it is shrinking onto the rod. Good luck! Thomas Dean ----------------------- 6013 It is an old blacksmithing trick taken from the Chinese finger trap. Pull and it tightens. Unscrew the coils just a bit and they expand and slip off. 6013 -------------- JWBIRONWORKS Thanks for the replies guys. I have tried "unscrewing" the spiral, that is how I do the singles that I make. However it distorts the spiral before they comes off. Maybe I will try heating it alittle before I unscrew it. I'm sure the solution is something simple I have overlooked. Maybe I'll have better luck this morning. The problem may be that I dunked the whole thing in the slack tub so I could get them done "quicker". Thanks again, JWB ------------------- Ten Hammers My humble opinion. Heat your tooling with a bernzomatic a bit. I have not used this tooling per-se but I use tooling a lot. Stuff will stick, yes. Wrap it, let the color go out and try and unwrap it. I absolutely would not quench. Keep the scale cleaned off ( air hose close by for a quick blast is handy ). Ten Hammers --------------------------- irnsrgn pipe has a rough texture, and it gets hot and expands quick, use a slick smooth shaft for a mandrel, and don't quench it will shrink tight on the mandrel. Irnsrgn ------------------------- MOONY Hit it with a bigger hammer! (just kidding) Try unwinding it from the top and bottom a little bit, and make sure your pipe mandrel has no burs or marks on it, especially near the top. Linish a bevelled edge at the top to be sure. MOONY ------------------------------- JWBIRONWORKS Smile Problem Solved I finally got thr first set of the jig and wrapped the second set then before it cooled I put on a pair of gloves and it unscrewed of thr gig just fine. I made the other jig that Gerald had in his bp also. Worked like a charm. I had always freehanded them before. Irnsrgn, I put the pipe on the belt sander after I removed the first set that was stuck and also cut off about 4" of excess. I beleive that also helped. Ten hammers, you an Iron were both dead on about not quenching. Moony. I also beveled the top of the pipe after I had removed the excess length and put it on the belt sander. Thanks everyone who responded with suggestions, I hope this helps others in the future. JWB "I like happy endings" View full article

Safety information - American Welding Society 1 Fumes and Gases Oct 05 2 Radiation Oct 03 3 Noise Oct 03 4 Chromium and Nickel in Welding Fume Oct 03 5 Electrical Hazards Aug 06 6 Fire and Explosion Prevention Aug 06 7 Burn Protection Sep 95 8 Mechanical Hazards Sep 95 9 Tripping and Falling Sep 95 10 Falling Objects Sep 95 11 Confined Spaces Sep 95 12 Contact Lens Wear Sep 95 13 Ergonomics in the Welding Environment Sep 95 14 Graphic Symbols for Precautionary Labels Sep 95 15 Style Guidelines for Safety and Health Documents Sep 95 16 Pacemakers and Welding Mar 97 17 Electric and Magnetic Fields (EMF) Jan 96 18 Lockout/Tagout Mar 97 19 Laser Welding and Cutting Safety Mar 98 20 Thermal Spraying Safety Feb 97 21 Resistance Spot Welding Feb 99 22 Cadmium Exposure from Welding & Allied Processes Jan 02 23 California Proposition 65 Jul 01 24 Fluxes for Arc Welding and Brazing: Safe Handling and Use Jan 02 25 Metal Fume Fever Jan 02 26 Arc Viewing Distance Jul 04 27 Thoriated Tungsten Electrodes Oct 03 28 Oxyfuel Safety: Check Valves and Flashback Arrestors Apr 05 29 Grounding of Portable and Vehicle Mounted Welding Generators July 04 30 Cylinders: Safe Storage, Handling, and Use Safety information - American Welding Society

I was finally able to contact Gilly by phone. She is still a scrapper, fighting health problems. They were able to keep their house and Rod is back to working at the same company as a pipe line welder. It is on a part time as needed basis but it is income. Gilly said to say hello to all her friends and thanks them for all their thoughts and prayers. Please keep her in your thoughts and prayers. For those wishing to send a card or letter: Gilly Rice Box 4 Charlie Lake, B.C. Canada VOC 1 HO

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0392 Log Hooks, J Hooks, and Log Dogs by Glenn Conner This is a device used to attach a chain to a log, I have heard it called a log hook, J hook, and log dog. To use the tool, just hammer the point into the side of the log, hook onto the chain and pull. This is one of the early projects I made. At that time 3/8" x 1" bar stock looked like it would be heavy enough for the task. The stock was cut at an angle and welded to another piece of stock. Chain was welded to the end of the piece. Notice that there is only one hook. This is so you can drive the dogs into the side of the log and then adjust the loop of the chain as needed. These dogs have done a lot of work and yes the top one is bent a little from the stress of pulling. This set of dogs was found at the flea market and I grabbed them for the hooks. Then I realized that the chain was not real smooth, and was not real oval shaped. Then there was that thick piece that looked like 3 pieces welded together. From the side you can see the overlap and forge weld. And this shows it even a bit better. This piece of equipment was used to connect two logs together during the pull. A second team of horses was then attached to the center hook to assist in the pull. This open hook allowed the horses to pull but if the logs ran faster than the horses, would disconnect and not run over the team, or drag them down the hill. It was interesting to find the chain was hand made and forge welded as well at the center link forge welded. I just picked it up from the table at the flea market, paid the man and walked away with a blacksmithing treasure. 2# blacksmithing hammer for size. Oil can for size. 3 photos to give you some relationship of size. Hands differ in size so I included a 2# blacksmithing hammer and an oil container. View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0391 Tenon Tool by Bill Epps I start with 2 pieces of 1 inch sq 6 inches long. Drill holes that are 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch in diameter. Using the angel grinder, I relive the edges, round them over a bit.. Edges after grinding. Using a piece of 1/2 inch round bar 36 inches long, I make the spring. After flatting the center section (about 10 inches long ) bend the center in a loop. Weld the spring to on one end of the tenon tool. The finished tool. Tenon made with new tool. View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0388 Dressing Tools by Glenn Conner Your standard wood splitting wedge that was used last season. The top is mushroomed some from use. This side shows a bit of a curl to the metal. And this side shows cracks that could become shrapnel if it were to chip off. Another wedge that needs attention. The edge is mushroomed a little, This would be a good time to bring this back up to usable condition. It is just a matter of grinding off the edges and putting a radius between the side and face so there are no sharp edges. These are good to go for another season. View full article

Fellow ask if I would be interested in some banding material and without a clue as to what I was getting myself into I said yes. We walked to the door and there in the floor was maybe 30 feet of 1-1/4" wide steel banding material. Thanked him and threw it into the back of the truck. Then he ask if I needed some other material about the same size and there was still some room in the mostly empty truck, so I said "sure". Each of the 10 rings is about 1.5 feet in diameter x3 is 12 feet (rough guess) long, of more 1-1/4" material. This stuff has one ragged edge though. Anyway there is some 120 +/- feet of the stuff. Now what do I do with it ?? * Mig weld the edges together into a sheet of steel? * Weld it into the quarter panel to patch the holes in the truck. *Attach it to a board to lay down the glue for the linoleum floor. You folks are blacksmiths, any sharp ideas ??

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0384 Using Coal Fines by Glenn Conner There has been some discussion of how to deal with fine coal, coal dust, etc. There was a coal truck headed for a power plant that tipped over and I was able to get some of the coal. Turns out it works for forging but only if you separate the lumps from the fines. The lumps are heavy with rocks that just do not burn well. If you shift it through expanded wire you get the lumps on the left and the fines in the tub. You just shovel the fines into a 5 gallon bucket so it is easily carried to the forge for use. With a hot rod, I burned a hole into the bottom of a plastic bucket. This allows for any water to drain out. The bucket keeps the coal rather moist. When you squeeze the coal fines, it should clump together. Otherwise add more water to the bucket and allow the excess to drain off. How wet? This is the 2nd bucket of fines waiting to be moved over to the forge. One word of caution, during cold weather the moisture (wetness) in the coal fines tends to freeze. This is when the fines are allowed to dry out and water is added just before it is used in the forge. The water is NOT put in the forge, just the moist (damp) coal. This damp coal cokes up nicely leaving a dome of coal with a hollow inside. Just push the green coal into the fire from the front opening, keeping the dome in place. For me, this tends to act as a oven and heats the metal a little more efficently. I keep the hollow small because it is the heat of the coals that transfer the heat to the metal, not the air inside the hollow. View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0379 Consumables by Glenn Conner Consumables - able or meant to be consumed. It is unwise to try to get the last little bit of use from a consumable product. This wheel was doing little work but was throwing wires everywhere. You can see where the locking nut was in contact with the material being wire brushed. The replacement wheel shows just now worn the old wheel had become. The replacement wheel even looks large by comparison. The same is true of grinding wheels. When they get small the surface speed slows down and they don't work as well. The new grinding wheel just how worn the old wheel had become. The replacement wheel even looks large by comparison. When the consumables are consumed, replace them. Trying to get the last little bit of use from a wire brush, grinding wheel, or other device is not worth the effort. The old saying that a new broom sweeps clean holds true, and new consumables work better than the old ones that are worn out. View full article

Harold Brewer ia an ABA blacksmith that thought he was in remission after a long fight and 26 treatments for his cancer. After the fall ABA October conference he started feeling weak, after some tests his doctor informed him that his cancer had returned and had spread throughout his body. Harold has been coming to the Spring and Fall Conferences for several years. He seldom came inside the shop, mostly stayed around his truck and tailgated and enjoyed talking with everyone. Your prayers and possibly a card to show our concern would be an uplifting to Harold and his family. If you wish to write or send him a card during this holiday season. Send it to Harold Brewer, PO Box 4, Long Bottom, OH 45743. Thank you, Fred Moye

It's a swage block. See others by clicking here. Sam and some blacksmiths in the New England area might be interested if you want to find it a new home.

Appalachian Center for Craft is a satellite campus of Tennessee Tech University (TTU).

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0377 Wiggle Pick by Bill Epps A wiggle pick is a tool used by arrow head hunters. The guy I made it for is a arrow head hunter and uses it for digging in the ground. I am not real sure exactly how it is used, the fellow just wanted me to make one for him. So I cut it out with a torch, then forged it to shape. To the best I can find out you push down on the top and work the handle to force the point into the earth then pry up the dirt and hope you find something View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0374 Gear Puller by Glenn Conner The local mechanic needed to replace this gear on a timing shaft. In getting the old gear off he tore up the flange with his 3 prong puller and pry bar. The old gear had some damage and was close to $100 to replace. He located a junk motor for less than half that but the gear was stuck on the shaft. And he had already destroyed one gear trying to remove it. The damage was the cause for replacing the gear, no by the mechanic. The replacement gear had to come off to be used. So he called a blacksmith. First you find a piece of steel from your resource pile. The welding rod is just to indicate size. I figured 1/4 inch plate would hold up to the task. Check to see that it will work and mark the center. Using your handy hole punch, punch a hole where the shaft would be located. While your at it, cut away any excess material. Mark the location for the 5 bolt holes. Drill 5 slightly oversized holes. Mark the location for the BIG nut to properly fit over the end of the shaft on the engine. Assemble the whole thing. The bolts are screwed into the gear to assure proper alignment. This is where you use the "other" half of the plate to help align the "C" clamp. Put the BIG bolt into the BIG nut and see if everything fits as it should. The mechanic put the gear puller on the gear, tightened down the 10mm bolts, put a 15/16" wrench on the BIG bolt and with a flick of the wrist removed the gear. The idea was to use all 5 small bolts to secure the great to the plate. The Big bolt was then used to press against the end of the shaft and pull the plate, 5 small bolts, and the gear upward all being properly aligned to the center line of the shaft. I am a blacksmith, I can make the tools to do the job. It just takes a little thought on how to keep things straight and to use a simple inclined plain (screw) to do the work. You can exert a tremendous amount of pressure with a set up like this so even though it is simple, use caution and wear safety glasses. View full article

Uri is currently in Germany teaching a class. It may take a couple of weeks for him to reply.