Sword Making tools and equipment.
Posted 03 February 2011 - 03:42 PM
Is there anything you would add to forging equipment ?
Or material removal ?
I've heard that you need a 4" wide grinder for grinding swords, but is it really necessary, or just nice to have or not worth the money ? (a 2x72 seems to work fine...)
Any special little jigs or toys that you've found unexpectedly helpful with the longer stuff ???
Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:57 PM
whatever you make remember to keep us posted.
hope my rambling helped some
Posted 03 February 2011 - 11:01 PM
Hey Ed, what exactly is a sen scraper ? I've been thinking about fuller scrapers, I've got lots of slightly used carbide inserts from work so I think I'm going to russel something up that will hold a nice radius insert for me. If anyone wants to try one I've got tons of inserts.
I like the drift idea ! I like the look of punched and drifted holes on more natural blades.
Posted 04 February 2011 - 12:10 PM
and a fuller scraper is used to scrape in or clean up forged fullers. i would just search the forums here for info on that.
i like the slot drift to be the shape of the blade-tang union and slightly small, so the guard can either be heated and press-fit on, or filed slightly for a sliding fit. definately make them out of high carbon steel or they just don't hold up.
Posted 04 February 2011 - 02:42 PM
~ The artist formally known as John n ~
Posted 07 February 2011 - 01:10 PM
Generally you only want to heat as much as you can work at a go, saves on scaling, decarb, grain growth and all that jazz.
Except as mentioned the heat treat! Having a dedicated heat treat furnace is a big help. The swordmaker I worked with had a *vertical* inert atmosphere electric heat treat furnace with the fancy controls for things like D2. 36" of blade is awful like cooked spaghetti when hot so a vertical furnace and quench tank helped warpage a lot! (he used a 2x72 Bader as well)
Posted 08 February 2011 - 11:31 PM
Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:15 AM
Posted 10 February 2011 - 11:44 AM
Posted 10 February 2011 - 03:13 PM
Posted 22 February 2011 - 12:06 AM
Posted 22 February 2011 - 01:21 AM
Posted 22 February 2011 - 01:23 PM
Actually while forging the blade with coal is not that big a deal I would suggest using charcoal for heat treat anyway,
Posted 23 February 2011 - 04:38 PM
Posted 06 March 2011 - 02:49 AM
1. A 6"x48" wood sander modified for steel by mounting a bigger motor (1.5 HP) and new pulleys to crank the speed up. (and new bearing after a couple of hours hehehee, they were pretty beat up with the seals gone so I planned on it)
2. A new 2 x 72 sander with an extra long tooling arm to run longer 90" belts that I got for free from work.
3. A filing guide for tang shoulders I made by drilling holes in two pieces of HSS lathe tool blanks. Work great but good luck drilling if you don't have a solid carbide drill bit and a good rigid mill.
4. Deep quench tanks for water for grinding. Used pieces of abs pipe with end caps. (as a note make sure then end caps are on tight, it can be cold on your toes if you lift the tank full of water up and the end cap doesn't come with it. A 4" pipe 48" long holds a lot of water)
5. Deep oil quench tank. Used a caustic drum which is basically a small oil drum.
6. Deep etching tank again made from abs pipe.
The blade isn't actually that long so I was able to use my forge for heat treating.
Things I still want to build:
A rolling mill for pattern welding.
A vertical heat treat oven.
An insulated shop. (It was -37 this week and my shop is a 102 year old log cabin)
A better electrical system for my shop so my lights don't go out every time I start my sanders.
This is the blade; 23 layers of L-6/1018 on the outsides sandwiching a layer of 1018 over a cutting edge of L-7.
I was trying L-6 and 5160 before and was just having no luck what so ever getting it to stick. Using the 1018 makes a huge difference.
The picture is just after tempering. I don't think it turned out that bad for my first blade over 6".
Posted 28 March 2011 - 10:28 AM
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