Mark Aspery Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Upsetting - stabilizing the bar end. The end of a bar can be stabilized somewhat, prior to upsetting, by drawing a two sided taper to its end. This will increase the dimension in the other plane (usually the thickness). I have shown this twice below, once with a short upset and again with a longer upset for a heel tenon. The taper allows the bar to upset without having to correct far a growth in width during upsetting as well as helping the bar resist the urge to bend and warp during the upset. The first progression shows the finished upset where no blows on the side were needed save for a little chamfering. This can be quite useful to a smith as it can prevent the local upset of the sides (causing the lipping and cupping) that can be associated with corrections at the end of a heat on a large bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thanks again Mark. I'll give your technique a try next time I can't avoid upsetting a piece. I haven't commented on upsetting seeing as Glenn doesn't like that kind :mad: of language. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwin Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thanks Mark, that is very interesting. I will have to play with that soon. I really appreciate how generous you are with information and admire your skill with photographic description. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 As always, a simple and very clear lesson! I'm curious how you went from step 2 to step 3 of the heel tenon... I can't figure out a simple way to make it offset... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 As always, a simple and very clear lesson! I'm curious how you went from step 2 to step 3 of the heel tenon... I can't figure out a simple way to make it offset... I use either a farriers rounding hammer or a cheese fuller and drive the stock, just behind the upset, onto the face of the anvil. This creates the offset and allows me to get in and do a little clean-up at the transition point. Just as a side note, step 2 is not the full upset - I need to do a little more work before going to step 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokshasa Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 hey thanks for the info mark, much better than my clumsy technique. I'll try that out as soon as i can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 I use either a farriers rounding hammer or a cheese fuller and drive the stock, just behind the upset, onto the face of the anvil. This creates the offset and allows me to get in and do a little clean-up at the transition point. Just as a side note, step 2 is not the full upset - I need to do a little more work before going to step 3. Thanks for the clarification Mark, I wondered about something like that but thought you might have some clever angle to strike it or somesuch! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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