Jeff Bly Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I did a search on this and the threads I came across seem kind of murky to me. What makes one brand better than the next? I hear people talk about a Peter Wright or some other and I want to know the difference between each. So what are the top anvils to go for and why? What are we looking for in an anvil?:confused: Please try and touch on all the points please. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Best bet is check out Anvils in America by Richard Postman if you can. Should be in local library. If you ask which is best, you will get as many answers as there are anvils. BTW, Trenton is best :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Bly Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Ya gotta love biased opinions!:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 British made Vaughans (check the spelling NOT Vaughns which are made in India) are as good as anything on the market and available single or double horn, farriers in 2 types and even a saw makers . Their main anvils are in sizes from a handful upto 560 pounds. Beat that anybody. Vaughans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Best bet is check out Anvils in America by Richard Postman if you can. Should be in local library. If you ask which is best, you will get as many answers as there are anvils. BTW, Trenton is best Trentons are EXCELLENT anvils, I have a 200lber and can attest to the fact with unbiased certainty. Just a shade less excellent than a Soderfors though. Now THOSE are anvils! Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 The basic desirable characteristics of any anvil are a fairly hard face (45-55 Rc) and enough mass to make the hammer rebound. Cast iron anvils are not very useful since they don't meet the first requirement and train rail anvils don't meet the second one. Beyond that, the other elements of the anvil such as the horn and hardy/pritchel holes are functional elements to improve overall usability (in other words, a 200 lb square piece of hardened tool steel will make a good anvil but will not hold tools or allow certain operations to be performed). Brands are varied and as suggested above, you might want to check out Postman's book. Hofi's latest anvil is a well thought-out tool for the working blacksmith and was designed by someone who uses one daily, so it will cover a wide range of general tasks. You might look closely at the details so you can see why he designed it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bourne101 Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 i have a very old anvil with nothing left written on it because a layer of rust....it's about 100lb. i'm planing on using that to get started with my first project. you guys think i can just grind the rust off or do i need to use some other method for an anvil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I wouldn't grind on it at all. If the rust really bothers you wire brushing will remove it with the least potential damage. If you're talking about the face, just start using it, hot iron and hammerwork will shine it up nicely. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bourne101 Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 oh ok thanks...any way to fix the edges a bit if they are a bit chipped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian.pierson Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 There are quite a few threads on here about anvil repair. Search the forums and you will find them under anvil repair. I would include a few if I knew how. Blue Print 101 was written how to repair one so check that one out. A bit chipped does not diminish the anvil so I wouldn't sweat it. The 140 lbs Hay Budden I use is a little more than a bit chipped but it still gets the job done. My 2cents is all this is Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merl Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 If the chips in the edge of your anvil face are a problem for you or interfear with the work you are trying to do, you might consider makeing a hardy tool that would amount to the equivelant of a new anvil face. I have a 100lb Peter Wright that I want to use for demos. It has seen very little use and the top plate edges are perfect. However, the face of the top plate is pitted from rust and has two quarter sized by 3/8 deep pock marks in it (probably from someone useing a torch on it) For general work and drawing out it will be fine but, when I need a smooth surface to work on I'll put on a 1" thick piece of 1018 that has a piece welded on to fit in the hardy and covers the rest of the top plate. As long as I don't do any cold work on it, this sub plate should do fine untill I come up with a piece of harder material. IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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