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I Forge Iron

Champion Forge info

Matt in NY

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Well it really depends on what you are making. As it was designed to heat fairly small items it will be ok for small Items; but if you want to do a lot of forge welding for knifemaking or work larger stock for ornamental gates it will be a stretch to do it in a small forge and a lot more work to even attempt it.

Think of it like trying to put 5 people in a two seater car---you might be able to manage it but you won't be comfortable...

IIRC Anvilfire sells a CD that was Old Champion catalog if you really want to see it documented.

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It is a flat bottom.

I have been looking at plans, etc. regarding the size of firepots and forge plans.

I don't want to modify this one as it was my great grandfather's.

I am planning to build a table of sorts that will go around the hearth area. I suppose when I get out and see some forges in person I will be able to see a difference. As far as fire depth for welding and the like, I don't see a problem. Instead of having metal sides to form the fire, I would need to keep it banked with wet coal.

As I have stated before and often, I'm a genuine novice and I'm just trying to get my head wrapped around these notions.

I was making a hardie from an old splitting wedge the other day (I was sore all over, thanks). One of the things I was doing was trying to develop fire control, keeping it even and the like. I had a nice deep bed and made a ton of coke.

I need to get around others at this point for comparison purposes as well as eductional reasons. Kind of like my first year with a single beehive. I had no idea how good it was. I got a hundred pounds of honey from it that year!

Thanks all.

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Small forges often have small blowers. The big free standing hand crank blowers when in good shape will put out a ton more air for less effort---I expect my blowers to make 3 complete turns of the crank when I let go. I can also crank it to welding temps with my pinky.

Small forges have small tuyeres---I can stick my fist down my forge's tuyere when I remove the grate.

How big is a "nice deep bed": 8", 10", 12" deep? The previous owner of my champion RR forge burnt a piece of RR rail in two in it by accident once.

I'm looking to forge some 2" stock this weekend as shafts for some medieval armouring tools I am constructing and sure wish I had my large forge set up---it's waiting until I put the new forge addition onto my shop as no coal forges is the rule in my clean shop (so I have 3 gas forges in it!)

Don't put a table around your rivit forge; leave it as your travelling forge and build a different larger forge for the table!

Now when I had an electrically blown forge made from a brake drum *it* wasn't deep enough for billet welding. So I placed a piece of sheet metal curved like a C in it alongside the inside edge to get an eight inch deep fire for welding---leaving the ends spaced to allow work to get shoved into the middle of the fire. I also cut a "mousehole" opposite the slot so extra long pieces could be positioned just right. (note that forge I built, + blower, anvil and basic tools cost less than $25 total with fleamarkets finds and scrounged stuff being what was used).

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I can probably put my fist in the tuyere. I'll check how freely it turns, but 3 sounds about right.

Any table would not be a permanent modification. This is what I have for now.

Your mention of sheet metal C shaped sheet metal reminds me of what I always thought was a heat sheild for the guy cranking on my forge. It was a heavy sheet that went about a third of the way around about 20 inches high and fastened by 4 bolts.

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Was watching a Champion propector forge portable on E-bay didn't bid on it as didn't know anything about them and was going to ask here but was too late. Anyway it when for $305.00, will be intrested in answer to your question.

You can find them for less locally I'd guess. Just saw this on Craig's list. He's a bit of a hike for me and I'm broke now anyway. I'd like to get some of his tongs, etc.

Blacksmith Tools, Forge and More
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