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Oak Hill Forge, I have done the same thing with my main anvil.
I have a 134# Hey-Bud that is FIRMLY bolted down to a 8x8x10" block of A36 and it does make all the differance in the world.
I can not say that it is exactly the same as a 317# anvil because I have never worked on one that heavy but, adding the 183# block certainly did make a big differance.
One thing I did find was that no matter how tight I tried to make the two together, the anvil would still "hit back". I don't mean it would bounce either it was a sharp shock I could feel through the hammer handle.
I had taken a sraight edge and disk grinder to the bottom of the anvil and the top of the block to make them flat and give even contact and I even ended up hand scrapeing them to ten pionts per inch but, it didn't help.
I then decided I needed something in between the two surfaces and stripped up enough ten gage sold copper wire to cover the top of the bottom block.
I had made a rectangular frame from 1X1 1018 bar stock that fit evenly around the waist but, more over the feet of the anvil, and held it down with 5/8-11 X 6" grade 5 bolts with the copper wire in between.
To reach my working hight from there I made a base from oak 4x4s and 2x12s
A VERY knowlageable person on another blacksmithing web site does caution on the use of "inertia blocks" like this. You may have a mass that weighs 317# but not a 317# anvil. The anvil is no stronger than it was and should be used as it was befor but, it will be much more efficent now to the user. (Not an exact quote but, that was the point he made)
It is important to get a full contact, even fit between the block and the anvil or you may end up brakeing a foot off or worse when you go to tighten them down or even when in use. This is also a reson for the copper wire.
If you just want a good heavy stand then perhaps just a piece of 1/2" plywood between them.
Good luck!

Edited by merl
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