Ben_C Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I think that the database may have lost the inital post anyway... How do the T-Rex and Porter Burners stack up against each either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 The Rex line of burners were initially designed by Mike. Mike's generation 5 burner is his design after he did the "hybrid" of the Rex type. His type 5 is also the last one he did, he's moved on to applications for naturally aspirated burners. A burner application book will be his next or that's what he said last time I talked to him. As to which is better, either one will produce more than enough heat efficiently if properly used. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saintjohnbarleycorn Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I just got a t-rex and its a powerful burner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I forgot the biggest difference. Rex burners come ready to run and you'll have to build a Porter. That's a lot more significant than it sounds, Mike spends close to a day building one of his type 5s. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben_C Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 I was planning on buying Zoeller's kit to cut down on the work somewhat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abrasive Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I forgot the biggest difference. Rex burners come ready to run and you'll have to build a Porter. That's a lot more significant than it sounds, Mike spends close to a day building one of his type 5s. Frosty What type/gen is in his book? I am currently using a Reil EZ that I built years ago. Looking at an upgrade to Mike's 3/4" from the book, but seriously considering using the lathe and mill to do something cleaner. But without screwing it up. Just wondering if there are any improvements I should be incorporating. I'm also back-and-forth-ing on putting in a taper to the tube, a la Rex. Thanks, Dave (First post here - can't believe I just found this place!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLeg0811 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Not sure which version is in Mike's book, but that is the one I have. It gets plenty hot. At 1920 - 2000 I am at 4-6 PSI. I can easliy get to 2300 and hotter. I didn't want to burn up my K thermocoupler so that was as hi as I ran it. Last time I talked to Mike which was maybe 2003-4, he said something about writing a book on soidering and being able to soider glass to metal. It was quite awhile ago so maybe I remember that wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abrasive Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Not sure which version is in Mike's book, but that is the one I have. It gets plenty hot. At 1920 - 2000 I am at 4-6 PSI. I can easliy get to 2300 and hotter. I didn't want to burn up my K thermocoupler so that was as hi as I ran it. Last time I talked to Mike which was maybe 2003-4, he said something about writing a book on soidering and being able to soider glass to metal. It was quite awhile ago so maybe I remember that wrong. Yeah, I think I need to stop screwing around for the last 1% and just get the thing built. Or things. Think I am going to build a pair to replace my single Reil EZ. If I can't weld with that then I just need to give it up. Thanks for the info, Devil Dog. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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