Jura T Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Has any of you any experience/knowledge on using silicates (sodium silicate=water glass, fluosilicates) on concrete floors? My shop floor was poured yesterday. I will sand it next weekend and then I want to put something on it for dust binding. Silicates can be used about two weeks after pouring so I could use them before getting all the stuff in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welder19 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 How big is your floor? There is a floor paint that is available, it's not cheap but it is really nice and very durable, I can't remember the name right off hand but a freind of mine did his floor with it. You can hit it with a hammer and it won't chip, it also fills/covers imperfections in the concrete, but that is more for old floors, since your is new it shouldn't have any. I'll see if I can find the info on it, contacted them about doing my floor and they sent me a packet of info. It will cost a few hundred dollars but you'll only do it once, not like a lot of the floor paints on the market. welder19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave English Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 From "Soluable Silicates In Industry", 1928 by Vail, "Most cement bodies are more or less porous. this is particularly true of Portland cement concretes which set by a process of crystalization or hydration of insoluable silicates. One method of closing the pores consists in applying a silicate solution sufficiently dilute to penetrate and sufficiently unstable to deposite a gel in the capillary openings." It goes on but the idea is to use a dilute solution applying it for three days and you should get deep penetration of an inch or more. This protectes the concrete from impacts, and water. About a 10% solution is suggested of Na2O, 3.25SiO2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I'm wary of getting a shop floor too smooth. A little surface texture makes for better traction. One of my friends power troweled his floor to a glassy finish, and if the floor gets wet I can skate across it in just a couple steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) if the guys pouring didn't do it already, I suggest top coating with a sealer soon. This is normally done soon after pouring as it also assists in the cure. I used it after I did the brush finish for anti-slip, while still green. Edited January 13, 2009 by steve sells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jura T Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 if the guys pouring didn't do it already, I suggest you top coating with a sealer soon. No, they didn't put any top coating on it. The silicates don't, if I've understood correctly, need any top coating... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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