jsf252 Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Hello all, This is my first post but I've been reading as much as possible from this site and other blacksmithing sites. I actually have a 2 part question: #1. I have a large scrap pile of various steels and iron that I want to make use of (which lead me to black/blade smithing). So what is the best way to tell if steel is high or low carbon steel? I have heard that you can file the pieces and feel the difference between high/Low carbon steel. Also I've tried the spark test on a grinding wheel, but I'm not experienced enough to tell the difference between the two. So what do you folks do when you're in the scrap yard looking for high/low carbon steels? #2 I've seen tons of knives with pattern-welded blades, but some of them are far more striking than others. I've seen a few blades that are mostly black with a few veins of silver steel running through them. Other blades have a grey and dark grey pattern that is less pronounced. How do you get that striking black color on the blades where some damascus would have a dark grey? Is it a type of blueing? Any information would be greatly appreciated. -Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 I have a fairly simple explanation of the process, and well as colors at my website at How to make Damascus Blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dablacksmith Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 figureing content on scrap steel takes a little experience there are various listings on what is made from what but if you dont know what it is in the first place it gets tough.. generally for starting out try to find springs for makeing knives .. it will usually produce something useable .. as far as damascus goes most of the real shiny stuff is useing some nickle or nickle alloy .. the nickle dosent etch as easily as steel so shiny! also i have done a knife where it was etched lightly the blued ... came out real purty... the nickle wont take blueing so the patern really stood out.if your just getting into this and knifes and swords are what your going to do then you might get som good books on the subject... Jim Hirsulas has a good group of them real helpful...... good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Hello jsf252. Welcome! You should check out a youtube video, here is the url(i think) YouTube - Forged Titanium Knife. If that doesnt work then look up titanium knife, theres a dude who forges one and shows very clearly how to spark test. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Hi, my basic method of finding out is that I would drop(or throw) any bar to concrete floor(even repeatedly)-it rings.Basically,higher sound means higher content of additives.Next step is spark test.Out there are many books on this subject,as you know it needs bit of practice,but don't worry it takes not sooooo long time to learn it.:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Richards Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Determining the actual carbon content of a given scrap steel is difficult in a home shop setting. The spark test will give you a rough idea, and test quenching can tell you if it has enough carbon to harden. The alloying elements will decide the contrast in a pattern welded blade. A high mn or moly content will etch darker. A nickle or chromium content will etch brighter. 2 materials of a similar content will have little to no contrast. Low contrast pattern welding can have a beauty of it's own and is used in Japanese swords. The best way to figure out if you will have an acceptable pattern is find enough of given materials to make several billets. This way if it works out it can be repeated. If it does not, try another mix. Make sure you will have an acceptable hardness after quench. This imho is the most important. If it will not harden then it will not make a good knife. It may make nice fixtures but not blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Look at the scrap, try to determine what it was orignally if you can, I have a junkyard steel list that shows the steel type of various material. I can send the list if you message me on this site with your email address. The information I have contains quite a bit of information on various knife steels and the composition of the more popular blade steels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Another way besides spark test is to heat the piece of steel and draw it out. Heat the thin end to nonmagnetic and quench in water. When cold place this in a vise with a little of the end stickng out. Using safety glases tap the end sticking out with a hammer to see if it will break off. The easier it breaks the higher the carbon. If it breaks easily try the same thing but use oil Low carbon mah not break even with water quench High carbon may shatter in water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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