Hold down probs

[samw1]

Hey all i have a problem with my hold down. i made it like a candy cane(pardon the pun of this time of year) with the bottem turning in twoards the anvil, and it holds down nothing, if some one could help it would makeing forgeing alot easier.

[civilwarblacksmith]

I just changed out the hold downs on my anvils at the homestead. I used the standard spring type that you stuck into the pritchel hole. It didn't leave much room on the anvil face to forge.

I now use a chain, smallish single link type, that is held into the stump with a staple. It is then layed over the anvil and part at the heel of the anvil and uses a large hook, that is hooked into a chain link, that i can put my foot into in order to apply pressure to hold the part in place.

This leaves plenty of room in order forge the part and keeps the part in place really well.

[Frosty]

A candy cane shape won't work very well as you've discovered.

What you want is a flattened "S" instead.

Allow plenty of length to pass through the anvil considering the thickness of whatever you MIGHT want to hold so you can free it with a tap from below. Mark or measure this point as it's where you're going to make the first bend.

Then add enough length to reach almost to the middle of the face more or less, this is a matter or personal preference.

Upset and flatten one end for the foot. You can do all kinds of handy things with the foot to make it hold the stock securely, forging a "V" channel to hold round stock is a good one. Anyway, size, shape and features are up to you but start simple.

Next put a 90* bend where the shank is to transition into the arm, the mark or measurement you made above. It can be a square 90 or radiused, I haven't noticed much practical difference other than an exhibition of skill necessary to make a sq. 90.

Allow a couple inches of straight arm from the 90 then make a graceful / pleasing bend down, then back parallel with the anvil face keeping the foot flat to the anvil.

In the attached pictures you'll see what I mean. The shank can stick down through the anvil as far as you like so long as it doesn't hit the anvil block / stand.

This holdfast isn't adjusted quite right as illustrated by the pic of it resting on the spring clip. It isn't tightened at all and the foot is touching all the way back at the heel. It SHOULD be touching out at the toe so when tapped tight it is resting flat on the work for the most secure hold.

Mild steel works just fine and won't damage the work or anvil like tool steel can. Also, as shown this is 1/2" HR rd. for a 9/16" Pritchel. It will work in the 1" hardy hole but not as well as the foot rests WAY back on the heel. Making it work properly in the hardy hole would be a simple matter of adjusting it though.

Hoped this helps.

Frosty

Edited December 18, 2008 by Frosty

[TASMITH]

Frosty is right on the money with his hold down! We used a lot of them at the plant were I first started out. Of course being a big shop we had large tables to work with that had a series of 1" holes drilled in them and our hold downs were quite a bit bigger due to the large forgings we worked with. The point being is that our hold downs were made exactly like frosty's and they would hold anything securely in place. The key is the flattened "S" shape and the foot. Make them like Frosty does and you will have no problems!

[CarlW]

I've tried a number of hold-down devices. For the last couple years I've been very happy with a chain that is connected to the stump on the far side of the anvil, comes over the face and and has an 8# sash weight on the near side. It doesn't give an utterly rigid grip, but it's enough to keep the work from flying, very fast to use, never lets go, and leaves my hands and feet free. I usually just leave it draped over the step or the horn, depending on where it's least in the way.

It made it possible for me to make this hatchet alone using a 12# sledge:
Prospect Hill Forge - StillsonHatchet

[CarlW]

Another key thing about the bent-bar hold-downs is that they work best when the rod is a relatively close fit in the pritchel hole.

The reason the candy cane shape doesn't work well is that the shape doesn't let you drive it tight by directing your force directly down the shank. That's why the right-angle is important.

You can also release one of these by tapping it on the "back of the head", it'll usually pop right up.

[samw1]

The main problem i also have is the stock i used was 3/4 square and my hardy is diagnel to my anvil(harbor freight) will this efect how it works.

[Frosty]

The one I showed works best in the pritchel hole but will work alright in the hardy, it just has to cock farther.

Were I to make one for the hardy I'd adjust the 90* angle to maximize clamping through the wider hole. Probably have to make the angle more acute but that's my intuition, not experience. A little experimentation should be all it takes.

Frosty