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I Forge Iron

Hammer Technique/Preference


primtechsmith

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In my limited experience, a little more than 2 or so years, my hammer awareness is getting much better. My hammers that I find myself using the most are: 1lb heller double faced (my first hammer), also since Christmas I have a Cliff Carroll 1.5 rounding hammer that is great! These are the two I use the most. What about you guys?

Any tips for hammer technique, and what hammer size and style you use...

Peyton

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Primetech, I think you have brought up a good subject here. I made the mistake of using a much heavier hammer than I should have when I first started out 3lbs. and ended up hurting my elbow before I realized I had done so. I have about 20 hammers now ranging in size from 1/2 pound ball pien to 12lb. straight pien sledge with several cross and straight piens in between and a 2lb rounding hammer that I have not used much yet. I bought a pricey diagonal pien (1 1/2lb. at my annual conference last year that was worth every penny, it has a half in. wide pien and square crowned face and this is the hammer I use most. I find it to be a good all round hammer for general smithing. My elbow bothered my for about 6 months and I didn't do much in that time. When I started back I used a lighter hammer and made sure I kept my elbow as close to my body as possiable and have not had a bit of pain in my elbow yet.

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My favorite hammer is an engineer's (sledge) 2-1/2#, with the handle shaped into a rectangular cross-section. I am constantly reminding myself to lighten my grip, but I'm improving. Also having to train myself out of putting my thumb on the back of the handle. I am improving -- oddly, when I'm tired and I choke up a little, my technique improves! :o Fortunately I already keep my elbow tucked in pretty well.

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Hammer awareness -- I like that
Autually I think you should be totally unaware of the hammer in your hand while forging.
The hammer should be like an extension of your arm and your total concentration should be on the workpiece , not on how light or heavy your hammer is or how fast or slow you hit it.
If you have to constantly think about hammer control you probally should experiment with with different types and weights of hammers untill you find one that feels like it is part of you.
Kind of like ( you must become one with your hammer ) :lol:

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I have actually just started up(after several 15 years or so on not forging) and am making a point to try and hold the hammer properly and lighten up the death grip that I acquire when i get into beating that metal for a few hours. I actually take at least 5 minutes out of an hour or so and remind myself to relax. swing it so it doesn't hurt my arm. I think when first starting up if i do this then I will develop a good habit of hitting instead of blowing out an elbow or shoulder like i've heard so many do. starting a good habit is a lot easirer than trying to break an old bad one. At least for me :wink:

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It can help to use *1* hammer until you really *know* it.

I was carving a dragon's head once and noticed that folks were staring at me funny---I finally realized I had been driving the chisel with the pein of my sweedish crosspein. I'm so used to it that I hit square on the 3/8" round stock end of my chisels and punches without even looking! I was watching what the working end was doing.

I know have a "warm up/cool down" hammer as I haven't been able to spend enough time in my shop to use the 1500gm hammer straight out for an all day demo...

Thomas

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I have a rounding hammer from I think DIAMOND. I shod horses for years and this was the hammer that I used to shape shoes. I have used this thing so long, that it has became and extension of my arm.

I ruined both of elbows arm wrestling when I was younger(lots). That crack and rattle like and old hay binder.GRIN. If I was off of my hammer technique they would rebel.(more). BOG

Chuck

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I prefer a square faced hammer with heavily radiused edges so if necessary, I can use any of the four edges to draw. Several of my hammer handles are also faceted in a octagonal cross section so I can feel the head orientation without looking. I leave a bulge on the end of the handle so it doesn't fly out of my hand and sand the handles to about 400 grit with several "whisker" sandings to get them quite smooth. I use Birchwood Casey's Tru-oil for a final finish and find it holds up quite well - much like a gun stock.

I hold the handle very loosely and allow it to slide back and forth as I work. Knock on wood, I have no arm or elbow problems after 25 years of steady activity. However, the whole hammer thing is very personal and I feel a beginner should experiment until he/she finds whatever is comfortable. I started with a 2-1/2 lb head, went to a 3, then a 4 and back down to about 2-1/4 lbs now. It is better to strike the right spots with precision and at will, with a lighter hammer, than to get carried away with ego and blow out your arm because "only real blacksmiths use a 4 pounder"...

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