tool EYE's

[Lysdexik]

Hi Guys.
I have been draging through the old posts, and have been reading about drifting hammer eye's, can anybody fill me in on how to make an eye for an adze, and a claw/carpenters hammer. Used to be (back last century, when I was a boy) that you could still buy a forged hammer with a wooden handle from Stanley UK - No More - and the guys who bring in the superb Granfors Bruks adze's have a real sense of humour about the price. I am sure they are worth it realy, but I would like to be able to "custom cut" one without trying to reshape a $250/300 Granfors.
While we are on the subject, the wood loonies like me don't mind parting with good money for hard to obtain tools - Check out Barrtools.com I believe if guys like you, with real skills, could bust off a chunk of somebody elses change to support your habit, by contacting the local woodworkers groups and offering your services, and custom made tool handles are mighty cheap in trade!!
Paul.
It's Not Over... Untill we Win!!!

[ThomasPowers]

Well first you punch a hole that is a bit smaller than what is wanted and then you drive a drift that is shaped correctly through that hole to get what you want.

You can do either a round punch/rectangular drift though getting full change of shape can be a bit more tedious or a rectangular punch/rectangular drift (note please do NOT make sharp cornered punches or drifts!)

Round holes are easier to punch as their orientation on one axis is not a problem

Edited December 9, 2008 by ThomasPowers

[rustyshackleford]

I should think that by punching the hole and then drifting it one way, you would achieve the shape you are talking about. I saw what appeared to be a drift for pick heads on ebay, similar in concept to what I am suggesting you do. You would basically drive the drift in only as far as the taper, not to a straight portion.

Make sense?

[John B]

Forge a drift up to the same shape and dimensions as the handle or shaft you are wanting to fit. Remember to taper it at both ends to allow entry,and to let it drop through when finished.

Slot punch the position with an appropriate sized working end to allow use of the drift you have made.

A slot punch with raidii on each end (a shallow/narrow elliptical shape) and sharp cutting edge is best as it allows a smooth transition as sides are stretched with the grain flow of the material when drifting, If a square/rectangular shape slot punch is used,the square edges will form potential cracking points when drifted.

Use of a slot punch means you have maximum thickness of metal at each side of the finished hole, making a stronger job. A round punch will make for thinner sides when you drift it.

Drift out the hole to the finished size.

If it is an adze or pick then the hole should be tapered from large at front to smaller at rear to allow proper use of tool handle. ie it tightens when being swung in use.

Hammers, sets, hot cuts should be tapered/drifted from both sides to allow handles to be fitted and wedged properly, You should not need to use adhesives if this is done correctly.

Edited December 9, 2008 by John B
spelling

[Mark Aspery]

The hammer is the easy scenario, the adze a little more challenging.
There is, of course, a relationship between the finished eye and the initial slot punch.

I punch from 1 side up to 1 inch thick or two sides for over 1 inch.
If I am working at the anvil, I forge out the desired ends of the hammers before drifting the eye. If I am working at the power hammer, I continue to drift and spread the eye before forging the ends out.

In spreading the eye, the eye is elongated and distorted as shown in the photographs.

I have a second drift that I apply from each side to form the hour-glass shape to the inside of the eye to prevent the handle from flying off.

I'm afraid that I do not have an adze progression of photographs.

The difference for me is to fuller in from the bottom of the adze to start shaping the ends. In this way the top side of the adze remains flat.

You can either drift with a parallel drift and work the eye or you can drift with a tapered drift from the top and work the eye.

You might find it useful to drift over the vice jaws for support of the adze-eye edges.

Edited December 10, 2008 by Mark Aspery

[781]

UMBA Online has two DVD-Rs of the 2008 BAM conference.
One of these has the Williamsburg master smiths making an adze from wrought iron and blister steal. He forge welded the socket portion of the eye to the top of the adze.
They also have a DVD-R of Robb Gunter making an adze from a claw hammer with the claw cut off. The working part of the adze is drawn from the head portion of the hammer. He stated the hardest part of making an adze is the sware eye and by using an old hammer head this is already made.
Cost of each DVD-R is $5 with $2 per order shipping to the US. They do ship worldwide but charge actual postage rates. There are about 150 differrent titles and they average 5 1/2 hours each.

[John B]

You can also use a swage block to support the heads when drifting them out, they are not as awkward to use as on a leg vice as they are a more convenient height.

[Lysdexik]

John B, I bought my first post vise from a man in Dawlish Warren, and then married his daughter, he lives in Kings Teignton now. She lives in Lye, about 2 miles from Vaughans, but thats another story!!
Knock back a pint of scrumpy for me, they've never heard of it in the US, if ever I get home I will come and dip my feet in the Exe just for old times sake, then off to Chudleigh for a "crawl".
I miss home at Christmas, I am from Monmouth originaly, but I came here via Africa, Australia, Venezuela, and Hong Kong, so I can't really be considered English anymore, more kind of MUT!
Paul.
Don't confuse activity with accomplishment! and as always.
It's not over... Untill we Win!!!

[John B]

Hi Paul,
Used to have the forge at the Wheel Craft Centre at Chudleigh some years ago, Its a housing estate now. I'll have a glug for you.