Tuyere to firepot

[Adirondacker]

I join yesterday and read some on making a forge, I got thru my head just how this tuyere works as far as grate being installed to prevent the fire from falling thru. But was wondering if the tuyere sticks up inside the fire pot and if so how high, or is it flush with the bottom of fire pot? If the tuyere that attachs to the bottom of the fire box was black iron pipe and threaded on the end furthest from fire chamber, then I could use copper pipe for the tail piece and the horz. air inlet, would both pipes have to be the same dia.? and would a y-fitting work better than a tee as far as directing the air upwards to the fire chamber. I also read about air pressure being more important than C.F.M. If the tube from the bottom of fire pot was 3" in dia and the Horz. air tube was say 2" dia would the air vulosity coming from 2" and entering the 3" tube have enough pressure?
Thanks Adirondacker

[ThomasPowers]

All of my working solid fuel forges have the tuyers flush with the bottom; however I have 2 old ones made for use with charcoal and a bellows where the tuyere stickes up about an inch.

A Y or T is not that important; however a T makes it easier to clean out the pipe when crud drops into it from the forge. Copper is usually much more expensive than black iron for pipe. I'd save the copper to make stuff from and get a scrap piece of black iron pipe.

As for pressure it depends on stuff you haven't told us. I have a 2" diameter glass and a 3" diameter glass if I pour water from one into the other will it overflow?

In general we don't need a lot of pressure. Using a compressor to blow a forge is almost always a BAD idea; but we need "enough" to push the air through the fuel; how much that will be will differ for almost every forge. I will say that the the common blow drier usually puts out too much air for a forge!

[Adirondacker]

Thomas,
Thanks for reply, I would like to build a forge using a drum off a truck, Do have a good junk yard close where I can go shopping. I already have a diamond plate about 3ft square to use for top, just need to fasten legs to it, have read a good height is around 30" or so. Kitchen counter seem to be about right for working from so could match. The tee now that I see your point makes better sense. Hate to pester you with questions but have read that some line the inside of their firepot with fireclay or fire bricks? good idea or not? Also is there any advangae to surrounding the fire pot with sand, I could build a sheet metal box around the firepot and fill with sand to insulate.

Edited November 25, 2008 by Adirondacker
mis-spelling

[Glenn]

Take a look at Blueprint BP0133 the now famous 55 Forge. It works, can reach welding heat, and is quick and simple to build.

[orgtwister]

theres lots of different types of fire pots if you search here theres a 55 drum forge that uses a brake drum for the fire pot if using a brake drum it thick cast iron i would weld up the bolt holes or but plain steel bolts through the holes to plug them and use a pluming t welded or use a mounting flange and bolt it to the bottom i wouldn't use sand or clay if using a brake drum thats my opionon if the drum burns through it would take some time i would just get another one

[ThomasPowers]

Sand is a bad idea, sand forms clinker and you want your firpot to shed heat so it doesn't melt. You use sand or preferably clay to line around the outside of a firepot when you need to protect a wooden frame from burning. if you are using steel, no need.

Don't get an extremely large truck drum as they make poor firepots. You need something where the hotspot will be close to the top rim. if you get one too deep you will need to fill it in to move the fire up.

On the brake drum firepots I have made, car or pickup drums, I have not needed to line it with anything, though some people line the larger ones to help funnel fuel towards the hot spot.