NateDJ Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Should be able to make those hats now, thanks! Will be fun for the kids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 Reb, That cowboy hat is GREAT!!! How much do you get for one? I might try that idea. Ole Rusty Ted, Thank you for the compliment. I just enjoy the site and the friendships that I've made. If we all learn something in the process, well, that's just a bonus!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 The cowboy hat is easy to make and I get the 3" discs as drop off and punched out of scrap at work. I charge between 5 - 8 dollars depending where I am demonstrating. Will get the dimension in a bit. I have to dig it out. Here is the jig for the corting candle. The entire jig is 21" across The coiling area is about 13 1/4" long of 1 " round with end necked down to 1/2". 8" until first large washer with a 4" long pipe sleeve in between the next large washer. Then bend up a handle and weld to shaft. Weld on a base to go into the vise. catch pin is 6 1/4" from end of coiling shaft. The candle base is a 4" ring welded on top with a 3 1/2" circle scroll welded to the 4" ring. That is about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Quenchcrack, I like the idea of arrow head key fobs. Do you make the small horseshoes into key fobs also, or just by thereself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Here's the cowboy hat jig set up. The swage is 2 3/8'' in Diameter. The heigth shouldn't matter, as long as it is over 1". This one is 2" tall. The ears are built out to fit a 3" disc. 1 3/8" hole drilled through it. Note on hole. According to DJHAMMER who is on this site and also who I learned this from at one of our guild meetings. The distance between the hole and punch should be twice the thickness of the metal being used. example 12 ga.= 3/32 x 3 = 3/16. he also recommends using punch lube. The punch I use is 1". It has enough slop in the hole, that the punch doesn't get stuck. The hat turns out pretty nice. As far as the disc I use, it is 3" dia. and I use 16 ga - 12 ga. I mostly use stainless steel only because we don't use black mild steel in that size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateDJ Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 I like the idea of the aligning tabs, I usually end up with my work half cooled down by the time I have the thing aligned to the center when I punch the shape for some flowers I do. Those are basically using the same type of setup and just cutting petals about 1/2''-3/4'' deep and about the same width, then bending them over after punching the center as deep as I can. I then drill a hole in the bottom and run my stem through and put it into the forge (or use a torch) and allow it to burn a little. This gives the pistol a bit of texture and shape more like a flower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Here ya go, Reb. My first attempt, Or I should say my 5th attempt, at the cowboy hat. This was the first one that came out OK. I kept punching thru the top. I think that I was still swaging after the piece cooled too much. I kept this one hotter while swaging it down.Cowboy Hat - Blacksmith Photo Gallery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Hey, That looks GREAT Curly. The ones you punched through, were they the same gauge as the one in the picture? Judging by the picture I would say that was 12 gauge? I made a bunch today and pretty much them right away out of 16 gauge stainless. You have to be easier on 14 and 16 gauge, take more heats to swage. Great Job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 I think that it's 16 ga, Reb. At least that's what the shear operator told me at work. The only thing that we have that is that thin is galvanele. It has a very light coat of sprayed on galvanize. I took a 4" grinder with a sanding disc and it cleaned right off. Also, I had to drill out a piece of 2" shaft material for the bottom swage. A 1" bit is the biggest that I have. So my swages aren't as big as yours. I compensated by making 2 1/2" discs. That may make the material look thicker than it really is. Anyway, Thanks for the idea and compliment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Leaf Key Fobs, Nails, Small scale blacksmith tools (hammers, tongs) Hooks, Split crosses, rr spike knives, business card holders, and some other trinkets. Camping gear, and grilling/cook gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjcook Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 I have got to agree with Ted, you folks are a really creative bunch and are always willing to share. I have known this for a long time but sometimes it is just plain amazing. So I just have to say wow and thank you for sharing some neat stuff. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Ditto Tim(cheftjcook),that cowboy hat is just another example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 I just got back from Oregon Ridge Honey harvest Festival and could not make the hats fast enough. I always enjoy coming back heavier in the pockets and lighter in the storage boxes. Something else that sold well was flint striker kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Good job Reb. Go get 'em, buddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug C Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Just did a demo Saturday and made simple gate handles. A leaf on each end with a twisted bar between. Lots of interest from folks on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promotive Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Thanks guys for all the cool ideas and pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quenchcrack Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 CurlyGeorge, I never thought of making the horseshoe into a keyfob. I guess you could just punch or drill a hole in it and put a ring in it, though. Good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark G Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Reb, would you happen to have a picture (or drawing) of the coat hooks and steak turners that you make out of the RR spikes? I just came into about 30 spikes and was wondering what to do with them. Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 These are the rail road spike coat and hat hooks. As far as the steak turners, they are simply the texas steak fork using the RR spike for a handle. Leave yourself enough room for a handle and draw out the rest to about 1/4" - 3/8" square or round. Form hook on end and bend it 90 degrees. To do the coat hooks, Heat up the RR spikes and come down about half way and start to taper. You can pretty much taper as long as you want just remember this is for clothing so we don't want a tapered pig tail at the end. Instead flatten end and then do a scroll end or whale tail. This way it won't tear clothing. Come down from top about 2". You'll a piece of 1"round to act as a one sided fuller. With the spike yellow heat, place the 1" round across it and hammer it until fairly flat. If you wish, you can take a ball pein hammer to the edges to widen. Bend the top part out above the flattened area. Drill 2 holes and put on a finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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