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Hay Budden, 170lbs, worn and rusty

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Curious what people think of the condition of this Hay Budden, 170# (?), that's local to me in the north east. Markings are pretty worn, fairly rusty. Couldn't see serial but might have been there if I looked hard enough. What's it's worth? Thinking of going back and doing the ballbearing test. 

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Welcome from the Ozark Mountains. Just from the pictures I would say it's in very good shape. If it passes the ring & rebound test in my neck of the woods it would sell for US three to four dollars a pound. Of course that would depend upon not having the hardened steel face ground or milled down in the past.

There should be a serial number on the front foot under the horn. I believe some prices in the NE run higher depending upon where. A wire wheel on an angle grinder will clean it up and a coat of BLO will keep it looking good.

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sails.

  • Author

Thanks for your feedback

Edited by Mod30
Remove @name tag

Hi,

           Get a piece of chalk after removing rust and rub the sides.

Will make the lettering stand out better.

Opti Visors also help.

  • Author

I went back and got about a 8 inch rebound dropped from 12 inches with a one inch ballbearing. Good ring.

If there was significant rust on the face, that may have dampened the rebound somewhat.  Check the rebound again after you have wire brushed the rust off as best you can....NO GRINDING!

  • Author

Thanks arkie, that was my thought with the rust and with it cleaned up maybe better rebound.

  • Author

Thanks George. I don't own it... Yet. ;)

Well, grab it as soon as you are able...Hay Buddens are a premium anvil.  It won't last long on the market.

Go get it.. What you waiting for. 

Never mind the serial number..  Its a second gen since it's welded at the waist..  I'd go get it, if it was closer.  170+ lbs of goodness. 

Congrats..   If you're new to forging.   Don't beat it up in other words avoid hitting it with your hammers face or peen. .  It's a piece of history and in Mint shape.. I've seen more really nice anvils beaten up by new smiths since this "Makers" boom has started..  No respect.. 

Treat that anvil like it's a milling machine, or table saw, or other high end piece of equipment or instrument.  

Besides it's a historical artifact. 

  • Author

I can appreciate that. I'm all about preserving artifacts and restoration including my 1910s home. I also got an 1850s Pennsylvania rifle made in Philadelphia bundled in a deal with the anvil. I'm in Philly suburbs and currently I'm over the moon! 

If your in the Philly area..  Then the drive to Johnstown, PA is not that far..   

ABANA 2024, I'll be there teaching, demonstrating and competing..  

Glad to hear you will treating that anvil properly.   If you are just starting out..  

Few ground lessons..  When you work on tapers..  The taper goes over the far side of the anvil so the face of the hammer never has the chance to strike the anvil. 

Watch videos by Mark Aspery or go to my youtube channel..  Not the best quality of video but some really great info. 

  • Author

Thanks jlp! Yes been considering some lessons in near future. Will look into your suggestions!

Congratulations on being a new owner of a HB!....and the Pennsylvania rifle to boot!!  What caliber is the rifle?

8 hours ago, AnimaVetus said:

I also got an 1850s Pennsylvania rifle made in Philadelphia bundled in a deal with the anvil. I'm in Philly suburbs

We won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to add it in your profile. We have a subforum about old guns gunmsithing would love to see some pictures of yours here.

https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/214-gunsmithing-muskets-flintlocks-etc/

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sails.

  • Author

Thanks irondragon. Will be sure to update my profile and post in the subforum.

Arkie, good question. From research I'm thinking around .49 caliber, half-stock. I am picking them up in a few days. More info to come!

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