Fence, bars

[natkova]

I saw this type of building bars interesting

  h

 

 

How this is type of making gates and fence is called ?

When you upset and punch holes in bunch of rods and pass other trought it, it look simple.

 

Same thing done with Mostar bridge.

 

It was specialy made durning Ottoman era this kind of matalworking

https://c8.alamy.com/comp/2FN0EAG/old-ottoman-tombs-in-green-tomb-yesil-turbe-behind-metal-fences-during-overcast-tombstone-of-an-ottoman-empire-governments-in-bursait-shaped-2FN0EAG.jpg

 

[George N. M.]

A similar technique was used on the gates of Scottish castles and tower houses.  In Scotland that type of gate in a fortified site is called a "yett."  I have seen them where the male and female parts of a junction alternate.  That is, on a particular bar the male/female shapes alternate.  That is tough to get the measurements right and you have to do it as you assemble the entire piece.  You can't, say, make all the vertical pieces female and then assemble the piece by sliding the male horizontal rods through.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

[anvil]

22 hours ago, natkova said:

How this is type of making gates and fence is called ?

 Good vid! He calls his tool a slot punch. Usually a punch removes a button or a slug. So, I will assume thats the case. Because of the lost material, the transitions from bar to hole tend to be weak or thin looking. You can see this in the vid. 

The other way is to use a slit chisel. The difference is that a chisel does not remove any material. This type is called "slit and drift". This way is very precise. You can, in fact lay out all the holes before you make the pass thru's and be very precise. Because you don't lose any material, the transitions are thicker which means stronger. 

I suggest you buy " The Blacksmiths Cookbook" by Francis Whitaker. He covers this very well and far better than I can.

Heres a quick rundown on how its done. I'll do round holes because they are easier to understand. Every hole diameter, no matter what size parent stock, requires a specific length hot chisel. Because a slit chisel is very thin, you get very little upsetting of the hole when the slit is done. Each side of the slit is the same length and is half the circumference in length. When you upset the hole as is shown in the vid, when he is dropping the bar on the anvil not when he is drifting with a drift, You don't get any, or very minimal, change in the material on the sides of the hole. If you use 1" square, the sides should remain 1/2" thick. If you punched your hole, you lose material and the sides will be less than 1/2" thick. Once you finish "upsetting the hole(making it round) it should have the diameter you want and the sides should have the 1/2" thickness. Now you use the drift to just tune up your hole and the sides should not get drawn out. However, the total length of the bar has changed and is now shorter. How much? It depends on the hole size. When you make a test piece, figure how much loss in length you get. If you slit and drift each hole the same way, you will lose the same length for all and the distance between each hole, center to center, will be the same. A little tweak should easily solve any problem, depending on your experience. The cool thing is you can take a 1" square bar, and pass thru it a 1" square bar and the hole sides will be 1/2" thick. 

In Francis's book, he goes into detail on how he calculates the chisel length and has a nice chart with many lengths figured. 

Heres some pics. 1" stock, two slit and drifted holes in each 1" bar. All bars were layed out first and center punched. Next the bars were champfered, then the holes were slit and drifted. Upsets on the ends then the bends.

 

[Scott NC]

  Your work is pleasing to the eye.

[anvil]

Thanks!

[natkova]

fence break a bit.

 

[anvil]

Is that your railing?

[natkova]

No it's from old bridge in Mostar