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Hi all, I am getting a lot of wrinkle in the sheet around the shapes I put in the copper (all the flat surfaces). Is there a method that will reduce this wrinkle effect, or a process to remove it after the fact.

The piece shown in this post is a good example. although I don't mind a "rustic" look on this piece, I like the look of flat copper in the non hammered areas of a piece.

I used to hammer the copper cold (no annealing) and did not have this wrinkle effect happen (the sheat was too stiff to distort). anealing has made it much easier (or should I say possible) to make the detail I want, but I lack the experiance/knowedge to correct this effect.

any advice help would be greatly apprieciated


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do you have a pic of a "flattener", I'm self tought and at times I am missing key vocabulary. I can take a guess at what this tool would look like (the name is kind of obvious) how ever I see no need to reinvent the wheel if an accepted tool is allready widely used.
Thanks I'm gunna go check some places on the internet to see if I can get some ideas (always hard to do when you don't know what something is called)

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Here's a picture of one if I can paste this in here


So it may (usually does) have a handle like a hammer, but it's not made for hammering with. Lay the flatter on the work piece and strike the flatter with a hammer.

I've never used one. You may also be interested in discussion of top tools and bottom tools, which I think may be hand held, or fit in the hardy hole.

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thanks John, that's about the shape I was thinking.

thank you too Thomas, I suspected the bedding might be too soft (modeling clay) and am in the proccess of getting something stiffer. It's nice to know I not waisting my time. the only problem I forsee with bedding is the abient temp here runs 100+ most of the time, and I don't know if I will be able to use pitch.

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You could use Red pitch for a medium to set you reppouse in or maybe Black pitch but it is very stiff. I used a small set hammer to flatten things out. If you look at Gene Olson's web site you will see some first class copper work and get some ideas for how to do big surfaces. I like your work. Very nice even if there are a few wrinkles.:D Here is a link to some of Gene's work King Porkunkhamun I ( 145 - 182 BBQ) - a raised vessel . Enjoy:cool:

Edited by Bentiron1946
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Try anealing the sheet and roll the wrinkles out using a smooth steel hand roller with a smooth steel plate under the copper. The roller I use is about 1 1/2'' diameter by 2''long, made for rolling down plastic laminate countertops. It works great for just the problem you are having. Annealing the copper is essential

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King Porkunkhamun I ( 145 - 182 BBQ)
That's great....I love it, not only does he do an awesome job artistically but what a great consept, some of animal rights folks may not find it that humorous but I did, especially since I raise and butcher my own pigs, normally, I didn't do any this year but this is the first year in many years I didn't, normally I raise 3, 2 for butchering and one to roast whole.
Maybe if I ever get into doing that kind of copper work I'll make something similar to use at my pig roast's.


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Sorry Facium, I did not get back sooner on the "Flatter" question, I have attached some pictures (some better than others) of tools I use when making repousse'd items.

The flatters and blockers are the larger tools at the bottom left of the pictures with all the tools shown, the top row left side, are marking out and lining tools which are seen better in the picture above the wren. The other shapes should be used when applicable. Basically use a tool of a shape that will do the job you want it to.

The tools are made of tool steel and some of mild steel, with polished working faces. They are approximately 4" long, I use the same tools when working on steel on a lead block for leaves etc.

The edges should be smooth and radiussed to prevent cutting through the copper.

The wren was an experiment, forming it against a carpet backing and wooden board instead of the usual pitch. The techniques used had to be altered as problems arose that you would not have if the work was being done on a pitch block.

Just keep trying, and make the tools you need as you go. A light hammer is preferable when doing this kind of work, and anneal the work regularly to avoid splits.












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Look forward to seeing it

Repousse has a very rapid learning curve, and most of the tools I showed were only lightly forged, then filed or ground to shape and polished.

A smooth surface on the working face gives a better finish and is easier to use.

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