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Can someone help me ID my anvil!?


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I’ve only seen one other on the internet and it was a guy asking to Id his SAME exact anvil as well. It is a 70lb anvil with a C On the side. It is NOT a “C” inside of a triangle though! I have had numerous people on Facebook tell me they think it’s this or that and I have searched every anvil brand imaginable that starts with a C. I have seen at least two other people with the exact anvil looking to iD theirs as well? 

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Short non-branching sparks?   

From Wikipedia: Cast iron has very short sparks that begin at the grinding wheel. These sparks are thin and very short, they are dark-red in color, and do not fork.

Use it and save a bit from everything you make on it to pay for a better one when you can find it.  You may also want to look at the improvised anvil thread to see about getting one for general forging and save that one for use of it's horn and hardy hole.  I hope it wasn't too expensive as ASO's should cost a lot less than better anvils do!

I've seen a lot of ASO's sold as "good" anvils; I ascribe that to either the seller doesn't know squat about anvils or is trying to take advantage of buyers new to the craft.  Not only individuals:  There is a brand called "Real Steel" that sells cast iron ASO's. For some reason the cast iron isn't nearly as prominent on their box as the Real Steel is...

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Not knowing your location I can't say a lot about the price; I can't even tell if that's Australian dollars or Singapore dollars!  However I would say that if in the USA; at close to US$3 a pound; it was overpriced.  You do realize that for over 3000 years a "real" anvil could look a lot like a cube of metal; the London pattern anvil is less than 300 years old and has been used in only part of the world.  I blame the media for brainwashing folks into thinking the london pattern anvil is the only "real" anvil.

A 80 pound cube of steel goes for US$16 at my local scrapyard.  If you want a hardy hole, you can find scrap with sq holes in it too at 20 UScents a pound there.

My Y1K anvil---on it's side to show it's spike:

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improvised hardy holes:

1946511661_improvisedHardyHoles(2).jpg.3f02e6a6b5bde50c49a3018bb2cdb1a1.jpg second from the left: 50 pounds with 2 1" sq holes is my favorite.

Being in a hurry is quite conducive to making bad choices---it was how I once bought a cast iron anvil.  Way back when; (about 40 years ago), when I thought that the only real anvil was a London Pattern anvil; my good anvil was stolen a couple of days from when I was scheduled to demo smithing at a Museum and the only anvil I could find was a 100kg Buffalo anvil at a local hardware store. I paid US$1 a pound for it.  Used it that 1 time and then never again and sold it at a loss to a person who swore to never try forging on it or selling it as suitable for forging.  This incident is why I now have a number of good london pattern anvils; spares so I can never be forced into that situation again!

You should be able to use the TPAAAT to find your next one at a better price; I've found several by asking around after church here in New Mexico; one the retired rancher gave to me and the other was a 92 year old lady who had one in her shed...I let the Pastor get that one as I was teaching him basic smithing out back of the church.

If you look online you can find the part of National Geographic's "Living Treasures of Japan" that deals with forging a sword.  Pay attention to the anvil used.  Not a London Pattern; but still seems to work for a master sword forger!

Use the one you have to pay for the one you find!  (and check out the TPAAAT method of finding them at good prices)  Also learn how to judge a good anvil from a bad one: (anvils that should ring should ring and the ball bearing test---I keep a ball bearing in my pickup truck---just in case.)

 

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I’m in Southeast Tx and I’m definitely one of those people who have been brainwashed about what a anvil should look like. It also looks like I’m paying the  price now with the purchase of the ASO, hopefully it will be learning experience that I won’t forget

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Might add your location to your profile; we've had a number or folks from that region participate here.  Also check on an ABANA Affiliate in your region as attending meetings is a great way to speed up learning smithing!  (And to learn about local resources.)    I'm afraid I'm only aware of the one in Austin as I used to travel there for work...Balcones Forge. (Remember that if there is one closer in a different state you are welcome to go there too; or become a member in several different groups!)

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The more you learn about a subject, the cheaper everything gets.

Pack a lunch and a cold drink and read IForgeIron starting with a section of interest to you. Then move on to the next section, etc, etc.  Do not expect to remember it all as you are building your own personal information data base.  The more you read the more you learn and the more you understand what you read. 

Start with the READ THIS FIRST tab at the top of the forum page.  Then TPAAAT Thomas Powers Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique.

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