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I Forge Iron

Swedish anvil


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1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

Repair work done by people who DON'T know what they are doing is quite liable to result in worse problems. Unfortunately you can be a a skilled welder; yet not know how to weld on anvils.  I've met a number of professional welders who don't know the difference between a Trenton and a Vulcan anvil and how that affects how it needs to be worked.

Just like you can have a top notch transmission repairman but still not go to them for rebuilding an engine!

I don't know much about anvils either, but I know they can be cast iron (cheap and not very good), cast steel, soft iron with a tool-steel face etc.
Different anvils would require different methods of repair.
A welder working in a shipyard may only weld low-carbon steel in his or her lifetime and may know nothing about hardening and tempering higher carbon/tool-steel.
 

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Just purely theoretical pondering here, but couldn't TIG welding be a suitable process here. You'd still need to preheat and post-heat the anvil, but it seems for this type of damage, do you even need filler, tig fusion welding could make those marks flow back together again, though a little filler rod seems like it wouldn't hurt then you could grind it down flat. But it seems like TIG would input minimal heat from the welding process.

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Dennis: Look up Heat Affect Zone, (HAZ) in regards welding high carbon steel. The transition between the molten steel puddle and the cooler anvil is where welds fail. No matter how you preheat it there will be a difference in temp of around 1,500f. The anvil WILL chill the weld quickly. Tig, stick, whatever type electric arc weld WILL PRODUCE A HAZ. Guessing what might or might not work is just asking to ruin a perfectly usable anvil for cosmetics. 

Nothing theoretical about it.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I've tried welding a piece of high carbon steel to a rod of unknown steel once. -Should have known better,-the weld cracked a few days later.
-Never again.

Edited by Mod30
Excessive quote
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