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help construction box blade gannon for agricultural machine

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Is there are specific reason not to buy one of the already made "chinese" models?  They tend to be so cheap that you can't build one yourself for the cost--and because they are so simple in construction, they tend to be quite robustly built over there, using quite heavy plate (steel is cheap in China due to being highly subsidized so they often build a lot heavier than other places do).  

The rippers can help if you are talking about breaking and rough-leveling hard-packed surfaces but they do not work that well on existing gravel and such--they aren't the best leveling tool on a standard 3-point hitch because their level and angle is far too dictated by the tractor itself--back tires hit a low spot and the scraper digs in (a few feet behind the tractor, making a new low spot)...hit a high spot on the tractor wheels and they leave a hump 5 or so feet back.  Without remarkable care in use, they actually tend to make surfaces more UN-level, causing the road defects to be emphasized and not removed..  For good leveling you need a bit of a different system--much longer framework that isn't affected the same way by the tractor's frame position.  It's basically more like an independent trailer than an attachment.

But if you really want to go through the motions, they aren't that hard to build.  For the actual hardened scraper edge, I'd find a supplier of pre-made units and see if I could buy only the blade as a replacement part.  That blade is a bit tough to make due to the slight curve, edge geometry, and the fact that they are usually a less commonly available high-manganese steel for the abrasion resistance.

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I don't have time to do a real drawing so I'll fake it with a text emulation for now

3 point hitch adjuster end (without top link)   -------------------/------o  Wheel    

That makes it so you adjust the cutting height (fine adjustment) wit the 3 point control arms but the tractor itself doesn't affect the planing action as much.  The wheels near the blade/rippers make the whole unit act as an independent plane so you actually smooth a road.   This is not for earth moving...it's for planing and flattening things like road and field surfaces.  It'll move a bit of dirt but it's not a dozer like a normal box blade being pushed backwards or dragged forward.

The wheel end should have some height adjustment..or the blade being able to adjust upward...so you can tow it around without dragging.  This is what the US Forest Service uses around here on it's backwoods trails and roads that are too small for a full sized road grader.

For smoothing gravel roads and parking lots, the blade gets replaced with a rake which lets some of the gravel pass through when smoothing.


Here's an old school version to give you an idea but typically you want a bit longer beam for better flat grading.  Again, this is not a dirt mover, it is a grader.  If you are stsrictly trying to emulate a dozer,  a standard box blade from the implement store will do the job...sort of.



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thanks for the tip, I think I have to find a system for ballasting to level the blade share
, the depth of cuts and the advance otherwise brings me to the crooked floor and the bumpy path is not on the flat, if it takes a large stone it clings the bucket creating damage, thanks anyway for the suggestion. maybe instead of a hydraulic lifting system I put pulleys or a hoist or winch device, I have to think about it.

pull dozer   Tow behind road grader  

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