Looking for info on Shatto & Son hammer

[hdvoyager319]

I am searching for any information on my power hammer. The Shatto & Son hammer doesn't appear in any book or literature . I searched Lorimor Iowa and can't fine any information either. The 1-1/2HP motor is mounted on a clamped assembly around the upright bearing posts. The motor hangs down to make the belt wrap almost 180 degrees to get enough traction for the belt to drive the hammer. The hammer operation is ultra simple. To the left of the big bully wheel, there is a Bearing Cap that also holds a lever pivot. When the hammer is activated, the Floor Rod w\thru linkage presses the large bully wheel into the thin iron wheel to the right of the pull wheel. The thin iron wheel has a piece of belting material attached with counter sunk screws. When the Iron Wheel turns, itis directly attached to the counter weight wheel. Then the counter weight wheel drives the hammer weight up and down. The hammer rides between two "V" shaped slides, the dark steel bars located each side of the hammer. Slipping the belt with various degrees of foot pressure on the foot bar drives the hammer, The foot pressure can just slip the belt or with heavy pressure, lock the iron wheel to the pulley wheel to hammer hard at the max hammering..

I have an almost perfect unused Blacker anvil with stand. The anvil has 2 Hardy holes each end of the face and the notch cut out in the center. A wild guess the anvil weighs 500# and the base 200-300#

The anvil was salvage from a closed military base.I wish that I had the hammer part to go with the anvil. Because of its size and space it takes , I don't have any use for it in the shop..

[ThomasPowers]

Check along the upper edge of the side of the Blacker for a small weight stamp. 

[hdvoyager319]

As you see, there Shatto & Son hammer uses leaf springs to hold the Hammer. I am concerned that a 100 year old spring  could break, especially the large outside spring.. From the pictures in my first post,  what is the best way to cage the springs? The cage can't cover oiling points.

What is the recommended oil for the Babbitt Bearings and the hammer slide rails? 

When I checked the babbitt bearings, there wasn't any oil groove in the top half of the bearing. So, I used a knife tip to scratch a groove  1/16" wide and about 1/32" deep oil groove.

Info needed: Safety Spring Cover  and what oil to use in the bearings and hammer slide rails..

[Judson Yaggy]

That's a really rare hammer!  Blacker anvils less so but still somewhat uncommon, I've seen perhaps 6 in the last 25 years.  But that hammer is unique.  

Mechanical power hammer lube is generally a personal preference thing as long as you lube it every time you use it.  30w non-detergent, way oil, bar and chain oil, ATF, whatever as long as you use a good bit on every point every time you fire it up.  That includes on the slides/ram guides.  

Optimal guard on a mechanical is a heavy wire mesh or expanded metal surround of all the moving parts, and a flexible heavy duty containment on the springs themselves, think fire hose or big truck radiator hose cut to length and slipped over the springs.  The mesh lets you poke the buisness end of an oiler thru the guard to reach the lube points.  Sometimes you see a sheet metal guard that's hinged and latched so it can be opened to lube.  That's optimal, lots of folks "get away" with less.  

[hdvoyager319]

The hammer was listed several years ago in the Gazette for $500. I hopped on the motorcycle with $500 in my pocket. I built a special pallet to set it on in my trailer. After bringing it home, I built a mount for it, three  layers if RR Ties, criss crossedI with steel siding over the top for the base.  It is setting in a hole dug for the base in the old Hog House.   

When I looked up the hammer on Google, I found a Ebay notice where they sold one. I googled Lorimor Iowa but their history was silent on the Shatto's.                                                                                                                                                                           

I haven't pounded hot metal with the Shatto, I just got it to run. I have been oiling it heavily before testing it. I think that the thinner grade of bar/chain oil may be the way to go. It is "clings well to the chain saw bar so it should also cling to the bearings and slide. If the oil is too thick, it probably won't flow into the bearings. On top of the two bearing caps, there is a  trough with a oil hole in the middle. I filled the trough with oil. 

I am afraid to release the leaf springs to place a hose over them. I don't have a spring compressor to get the springs back together.. The large top spring has a half circle ends capturing the pin that holds the hammer goggles. As you can see, I don't know the correct names for the hammer parts.

A cage of expanded steel mounted behind the hammer's front section could work. Sone of the bolts will need to be replaced with longer bolts.

Thanks for the heads up information.

[ThomasPowers]

Anything about them in "Pounding out the Profits" the book on power hammers?

Also; will it be in a heated enclosure? If not you may have oil issues when it gets real cold.  I had a friend who fabbed covers for the oil troughs on his other brand power hammer to try to reduce the build up of crud in them as it was a dusty shop.

[Judson Yaggy]

It does not show in POTP.  Part of why I said it's rare.  Closest spring and frame casting style shown there (but not a perfect match) is the Iron Store Giant, made in Minnesota.  

Front end looks pretty crisp, the pitman especially.  Possibly could be "new" replacement parts, perhaps even the crank plate with another foundry's name.  Hard to say for sure untill someone else posts pics of another one!

If you are a full time pro you already know to stay on top of the oil and viscosity with local conditions.  If you are a weekend warrior, any oil will likely be fine on any Iowa winter day you happen to feel like working.  It doesn't often get cold enough there to worry.

FYI there are some pics of an Iron Store on one of the facebook powerhammer groups right now.  Different spring shape.  

[hdvoyager319]

You are very observant. The Pitman Pin has a ball end, much like a ball hitch for towing a trailer. The Pitman Housing appears to be brass and it definitely was recent made. I would assume that the original housing was cast iron. The ball would allow for any out of alignment conditions to be resolved by movement of the ball in the housing. 

This hammer is ultra simple in design. The engagement of the clutch is accomplished by the Toggle (part of the rear bearing cap) presses against two well oiled washers. The washer positioned towards the front, which presses the large belted flywheel against the Clutch Plate which drives the main shaft. 

The iron eccentric  plate  with the Pitman Arm,  is counterbalance against the weighted sliding hammer. The weight of the hammer is a little more than the counter balance's off center weight so the hammer goes to the down position when the power is turned off.

When I got the hammer, the Driving Plate (The iron plate to the right of the belt driven Flywheel)was bare. There are counter sunk holes in the Driving Plate. I assumed that an oiled piece of leather may have been attached to plate by flat head bolts. I couldn't find a large thick piece of leather locally. Then, I got therm idea to mount a piece of thick belting to the plate. The bolt heads depressed the belting into the pocket under the screw head. So, there is  no metal to metal contact. I don't know how long the belting will last. I believe that Little Giant uses wood blocks that expand inside against the Flywheel. On the Shatto there isn't room to fit the thickness of a wood surface on the driving Plate, that is why I assumed they used a leather clutch plate.

I have no idea of how old the hammer is. A clue is it is designed for an overhead shaft drive. This makes me think that it was made prior to having individual electric motors available, A gas engine could have driven the overhead shaft that could run the Shatto plus other machines (drill press, lathe, grinder---) in the blacksmith shop. The poured babbitt bearings are another clue.

My shop is in an old Hog House that isn't heated. So when winter arrives, I will be back in a heated woodturning shop turning wood Bowles. 

[ThomasPowers]

It was in the 1940's before my Grandfather's farm got electricity so not a clean age cutoff.