maple smith Posted September 20, 2019 Share Posted September 20, 2019 I started wanting to try black smithing about 15 years ago. Then in 2016 I finally bought a 168# (reportedly) anvil in good condition ( I have a syrup scale that goes up to 300#, I can verify, it has no weight code that I see), a coal forge, large rectangular, commercially made unit, a #400 blower and a post vise needing a spring and a mount bracket. They all sat in storage until recently. I also bought a 1/4 ton of blacksmith coal and 10 bags of lump charcoal on clearance sale @ $7/20# bags in 2017. 2-3 weeks ago I took them out of storage and moved them to my current workshop. I don't have enough room in there to do black smithing (besides it has a wooden floor). My plans are to build an addition off the back for my black smithing shop. Just drawing plans now. I have my own sawmill and will cut the lumber for it using hemlock, off my land. I'm now trying to decide how big to make it. I know the old saying about building a barn or shop, figure how much you need, double it and you will have half enough. The issues now are age, health and finances. I will be 73 in less than 2 weeks, I had cancer last year and I have moderate arthritis in both thumbs. With all of this, I still want to try. My main focus would likely be tools and hardware. In the shop when I build it I will put down about 4-6" crushed stone covered with 4" stone dust, well packed. The structure will be pole barn construction with about 8' walls. The trusses will be made to match my current work shop and the ceiling will be open to the roof deck. My current shop is 14x28', hip roof and I plan a lean-to addition to that and add 8' out one side. I'm trying to decide, I will make the new shop line up on one side, on the other I could stop at 14' to match the current shop or go out to 22' to match the future extension. Just trying to figure what I can afford (roofing mainly) and how much I want to saw for the lumber. The posts will be PT, the rest my own lumber. I have enough hemlocks of good size to cut all of the lumber. The siding will be board and batton. I have a 100A service in the shop and could put a sub panel at the full 100A if I thought I'd need it. Really, if needed I have a 200A service in my sugarhouse (I also make maple syrup), about 110' from the shop, I could even bring in more power if needed. Decision, decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picker77 Posted September 20, 2019 Share Posted September 20, 2019 Welcome, Maple Smith! Right off the bat, you might as well go to your profile and add a location now, because it's the first thing folks will want to know for lots of reasons, lol. And you might want to un-click the bolding from future posts to make things easier for old eyes like mine to read. Don't let the health/age thing hold you back. I'm a forge newbie too, I'll be 78 in a couple of months, and have the usual litany of back/joint/arthritis/hip replacement/knee surgery, etc and things that go along with that. I found right away that pacing is important. 2 or 3 hard hours at the anvil in my case calls for a day for my wrist and arm to recover, which works out fine because it gives me time to concentrate on other small projects and knife finishing, etc. in the shop. So I just plan on actually swinging a hammer every other day. It's a lot of enjoyment and I know right away if I overdo it, ha. Sounds like you have a great place, a solid plan in mind, and plenty of resources to develop a nice forge. Keep us posted with lots of photos as the project progresses! Latticino as usual gives great advice. I'm with him on the labor saving devices, especially after the first time I drew out a billet with a hand hammer the other day. I'm almost back to where I can hold a cup of coffee now, ha. However, the price of power hammers and presses opened my eyes REALLY big, so that's probably not gonna happen. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted September 20, 2019 Share Posted September 20, 2019 Sounds like you have everything in line for a good shop. Personally I'd take a couple of classes to see whether I really liked it before putting a lot of effort into building a shop extension, but each to his own. Direct instruction will greatly lower the learning curve as well. There are certainly smiths in their 70's still working, as well as some who have started at that age. Depending on what tools and hardware you are planning on making you may wish to consider some form of labor saving device at some point (treadle hammer, fly press, power hammer...). I've always preferred a non-combustible floor for my shops, but I'm sure there are folks that make do with wood floors. Actually I'd be more concerned with the sawdust. If you do construct a shop, be sure to take into consideration adequate ventilation as well as a method for removing the combustion byproducts (side-sucker hood and 10 or 12" diameter flue up through the roof - with proper thimble at the penetration is a good choice). I have a 20 x 20 shop that is a bit cramped, but works well for me (too much stuff) . I've seen hobby shops as small as 8 x 10 and as large as 30 x 80. A lot depends on what kind of work you will be doing, where you will store your stock, and what additional machinery you will want to include... For example a welder, torch set, and belt grinder are very nice additions to any metalworking shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 Welcome to IFI! If you haven’t yet, please https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/48833-read-this-first/ I deduce from your discussion of taps etc elsewhere that you’re somewhere in the maple syrup belt. Please put your location in your profile settings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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